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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 16, 2017 - 06:15pm PT
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Have to get a new set of half ropes. Had the Sterling Marathon series in 8.8mm. Looking at the Sterling Evolution Duetto at 8.4mm. Seems a little small for me at 200lbs even though the sheath is 44%.
So what do you like to be tied into that helps you keep from frying when you're out there, it's too thin to get a screw in, you want a good stick, and every swing plates off some more ice?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 16, 2017 - 06:28pm PT
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We need rgold to weigh in on this.
I'm no physicist, and my math skills are... hmmm... math... But one thing I do remember is that the ugly side of the equation (the side that tells you how horrible it's all going to be) is = mass times velocity squared. Which, I think, means that your massiveness isn't the relevant factor.
Stretchy nylon ropes (impact force), and a sensible belay, should trump rope diameter in your decision about which ropes to use. (And, yeah, sorry about saying "trump" in a climbing thread.)
I'm not very massive -- sort of a skinny little guy -- but I was using 8.2mm twins for both ice and rock decades ago.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2017 - 06:43pm PT
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I hear ya!
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Dec 16, 2017 - 07:15pm PT
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Same mass here.
Mammut Genesis is nice. I also put a screamer on every screw. I know it doesn't matter much but....
Of course all you're likely to get is anecdotal evidence and recommendations based on people's emotional attachment to what hasn't killed them yet.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 16, 2017 - 07:31pm PT
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The math isn't relevant here, as a single strand of all half ropes will catch even the most severe fall once or twice. The thinner ones are perhaps more prone to being cut, but this is partially mitigated by the fact that you have to cut two of 'em before you're up the creek. The thinner ropes may or may not wear more quickly; that's actually a feature of sheath percentage.
Honestly, I'd make the choice based on handling, but if you want beefy with respect to falls, get something that is dual-rated as half and single.
I've used 60m Mammut Genesis halves (8.5mm) for years and years; on my third set now. But that doesn't mean lots of other options aren't as good or better. (In fact, what it means is that I have little means for comparison.) The one thing I can say definitively is that the Genesis wears like iron. I've retired them because of age when they still look fine.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Dec 17, 2017 - 12:16am PT
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You ice climbers are sketchy! The rope is the LAST thing I worry about.
Cheers!
S....
Edit: Not very helpful... just sayin
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 17, 2017 - 04:15am PT
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8.8 double ropes? I feel perfectly comfortable with my Sterling Nano 9 mm single rope.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 17, 2017 - 04:40am PT
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I use my 8.8 marathons as single ropes for alpine fun and moderates with big approaches. 7.8 sterling doubbles for big ice. I use the 7,8s as singles on moderate ice ocasionaly as well..
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2017 - 07:16am PT
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Jim, two things....
1) You don’t fall...
2) You weigh about half of what I do
So, maybe I need two of those Nano 9s!
Tradman, I get 7.8s for moderate ice and snow. For mixed? I’d be freaked. The Marathon 8.8s are great ropes, but Sterling doesn’t make them anymore.
Maybe I’m just a chicken. My single is the Marathon Pro. This big guy ain’t going any less than that thick sheath 10.1mm and it still freaks me to jug on it - that’s when I pine for the big fat old school 11s.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 17, 2017 - 08:38am PT
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I think you'll be fine with Genesis 8.5's...
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2017 - 09:08am PT
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Rich, Those Genesis 8.5s do look sweet. Very similar to the Duettos. Genesis are 45% sheath mass and Duettos are 44%. Sterlings seem to end up being slightly thicker than their ratings, so they would probably feel the same in hand. Similar design for use philosophy.
Thanks for the suggestion. It's on the list.
Does anyone use the Edelrid Serenity?
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