Ice Climber Responsibility Code, Canadian Rockies

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Gilwad

climber
Frozen In Somewhere
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 12, 2017 - 09:21pm PT
Ice Climbing Responsibility Code: In light of the recent Visitors/Canadian situation on a popular route here in the Canadian Rockies and the growing number of ice climbers visiting the Canadian Rockies, a group of active ice climbers and guides came up with the following guidelines, loosely based on the Skier's responsibility code. I support these ideas, and hope we all have great, safe days out! Yes, they could be more exhaustively detailed, but we wanted to make it short and sweet enough to remember. Did we miss anything critical? I'd appreciate any feedback to make it better.

I'd also be curious about what's different in the USA and other areas?

-Will Gadd



Ice Climbing Responsibility Code
1. BE RESPECTFUL – Everyone deserves a safe and enjoyable experience. Educate others with respect, and be educated with grace. Engage in online forums as you would when face to face. Pack out trash, cigarette butts and excrement (bring a wag bag to popular venues). Urinate away from the base.
2. LEAVE A NOTE – on your dashboard or in the dirt on your rear windshield, with route name, party size, and time, to aid others in their decision making at busy venues. Have a backup plan for when others are on your intended route, if it will not accommodate multiple parties.
3. PARTIES AHEAD HAVE RIGHT OF WAY – It is your responsibility to steer clear of them. Do not climb beneath, or pass others, without clear communication and a plan to which all parties agree. Multipitch climbers have right of way over those only climbing the first pitch of established multipitch climbs.
4. EXPECT FALLING ICE FROM OTHER CLIMBERS – Falling ice is inevitable. Climbing beneath others is dangerous to you, and compromises their security. Plan your movement and belay stances to maximize shelter from ice fall, which can bounce far, and in unexpected ways.
5. AVALANCHE RESCUE EQUIPMENT – A transceiver, shovel and probe should be carried by all party members in avalanche terrain, when sufficient snow exists for an avalanche hazard to be present. This may be on the approach, the climb or the descent.
Play safe. Play fair. Play by the Code.
Grimper à la mode. Respectez le Code.
frostback

Social climber
great white north
Dec 12, 2017 - 09:50pm PT
Good one, TFPU
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 12, 2017 - 10:10pm PT
The leader must not fall . . .
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Dec 12, 2017 - 10:17pm PT
6. If you fall off, or something or someone falls on you, YOU WILL PROBABLY GET HURT, OR KILLED. The freezer scene from Rocky Horror illustrates this memorably. RTFM.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 12, 2017 - 10:25pm PT
Don't leave your rope fixed on a great route.

There was a rope fixed on first 2 mixed pitches of Cryophobia in the Ghost yesterday. It came down. Climbing steep M8 and having to unclip someone's junk-show sucks.

Cryophobia Pitch 3 with someone's annoying fixed line in the way
Cryophobia Pitch 3 with someone's annoying fixed line in the way
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Quote Here

Have not heard of a clear set of rules EVERYONE follows. Some common sense and courtesy goes a long ways. Writing down the name of the route the party is going for is a good idea. In CA we have a few popular cragging areas that get gang banged and that's pretty much it. Long routes form rarely and the approach is from popular parking lots where it would not be realistic to check every window for a note. Makes sense for Canada.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Dec 12, 2017 - 10:45pm PT
dig it, but this one line seems odd to me. I've never had a Joshua Tree Climber Code of Responsibility say "Be nice to each other when you're online"


"Engage in online forums as you would when face to face."


It's common sense, but is it really about the climbing community?

I stopped and paused and lost the import of the rest of the message because it seemed to dictate behavior that wasn't ice climbing centric.

It is not that it isn't good advice. It is!


But maybe modify it to read as:

"Engage in online ice climbing forums as you would when face to face."
BJ

climber
Dec 13, 2017 - 04:14am PT
2. LEAVE A NOTE – on your dashboard or in the dirt on your rear windshield, with route name, party size, and time

That's a good idea, let's make things easier for the tweakers. Why not just leave the keys and your wallets on the hood of the car?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 13, 2017 - 07:22am PT
BJ you are not in f*#king Fresno while ice climbing...
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Dec 13, 2017 - 07:36am PT
Will,
I like your suggestions, alot! #1 Be respectful is just outstanding, but sad that we have to say it in the first place. I also like your very common sense "right of way" suggestions - also just good sense but needs to be said anyway.

Thanks, bro, this is good stuff - as are the suggestions others have made about fixed gear (Vitaly), and leader not falling.

Cheers, and be safe out there people.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 13, 2017 - 07:47am PT
‘Be respectful’. Clearly some quaint Canadian notion.
Malemute

Ice climber
great white north
Dec 13, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
^ and that's why Merica is such a rathole
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