Rapping from Hollow Flake - beta please

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Hector

Trad climber
Johannesburg, South Africa
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 22, 2017 - 05:09am PT
Does anyone have beta for bailing from Hollow Flake ledge on the Salathe? I've read elsewhere that its easy to rap straight on down and join up with the Heart Route anchors (rather than reversing the HF). Anyone know how many raps? Is it straightforward? Nice to be prepared in case.
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Nov 22, 2017 - 11:13am PT
I reversed the Hollow Flake many years ago due to a storm. Wasn't too difficult. No knowledge of this other descent.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Nov 22, 2017 - 11:42am PT
hector, you rappel from the chains on the right side of hollow flake ledge and you will find chained anchors all the way down to La Escuela via my route Bermuda Dunes, with anchors every 60 meters or so. I set it up as a fixing/rappelling alternate to the crowded heart ledge lines. i believe it is 6 rappels. Steve Schneider

Freerider prospects can use these lines to prehaul gear all the way to hollow flake ledge.
l
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 22, 2017 - 12:51pm PT
Steve's route Bermuda Dunes is absolutely one of the best on all of El Cap, and arguably my all-time favourite.

The climbing up and right of the Alcove on Salathe, and through the roofs to the right of the Salathe Wall, is absolutely brilliant. "Pine Island", the little belay with the pine tree under the roofs, is a really out-there place.

And how about those Monster Cracks?!

Shipoopoi - did you install those anchors when Tom and I were going up Magic Mushroom? I think I remember seeing you on fixed lines?

And didn't some guy from Oregon drill a bolt right in the middle of the Hollow Flake?? Kuh-RAY-zee!
mikeyschaefer

climber
Sport-o-land
Nov 22, 2017 - 01:51pm PT
I've reversed the hollow flake numerous times. It is easy or at least it should be if you are experienced enough to be climbing on el cap.


Wasn't it Ammon that drilled that bolt in the middle of the hollow flake? I thought he was soloing burmuda dunes, it was dark out and he didn't realize he was in the hollow flake till he woke up in the morning. Then he chopped it. I vaguely remember him telling me that story.
Hector

Trad climber
Johannesburg, South Africa
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2017 - 11:07pm PT
Thanks for the beta Steve (and for establishing that rap route!). And thanks for the other comments too - McNeely must have been gutted to realise he'd drilled HF! Classic.
Interesting idea to haul direct to HF ledge, but I'd be worried about leaving a fixed line hanging down the flake - might spoil others' experience of a notorious pitch, even if its only up for a day or two. Below this I'd imagine there's way less traffic so it should be ok. I guess the thing to do would be to fix the five or so ropes to below HF, then on hauling day just re-lead the flake.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Nov 23, 2017 - 09:57am PT
so, when you fix from hollow flake, use the 2 bolt anchor(some more of my work) on the left side of the hollow flake ledge so that it does not interfere with climbing/hauling on the hollow flake for other parties.

and yeah, it was some useless sod from oregon that drilled that bolt in the middle of the hollow flake. real desecration, kid has probably never come back to the valley. ss
Alex Baker

climber
Portland
Nov 23, 2017 - 10:12am PT
Steve, did that useless sod eventually get distracted by flying airplanes?
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 24, 2017 - 09:04am PT
Hey man, I’m not sure if you are disrespecting Oregon climber Tyler Adams...but I highly doubt he placed any bolts on the Salathe Wall. Put up proof or stfu.

BTW, Tyler was killed in a plane crash and was loved and respected by many. His youthful psyche for climbing and positive vibes radiated through the Oregon climbing community.

I only met him once when I bought his handmade Toyota bed kit which is still in use today. We instantly became friends. RIP Tyler.

http://www.gazettetimes.com/news/headlines/corvallis-pilot-dies-in-nevada-mid-air-collision/article_16908610-543d-11e4-bc12-03d28e74986d.html

FWIW I also remember Ammon posting about placing bolts on the Hollow Flake when thinking he was off route on Bermuda Dunes or some such thing. Though I can’t find it now.
Alex Baker

climber
Portland
Nov 24, 2017 - 11:53am PT
Tyler was a good friend of mine and I meant no disrespect. Just wondering if there was a story I haven't heard. I was thinking Steve's words may have been tongue in cheek but apparently not.

AB
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 24, 2017 - 01:22pm PT
Yeah I have no idea who steve was talking about, just thought I'd chime in for Tyler.
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