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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
Loyd
Big Wall climber
Roseburg, OR
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 17, 2017 - 10:32am PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 17, 2017 - 10:48am PT
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Those were the days Lloyd. You were the man when I first got to the Valley!
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Nov 17, 2017 - 10:50am PT
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cool find :-)
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Nov 17, 2017 - 11:16am PT
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Go Climb a Rock!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 17, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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It finally dawned on me who the poster Loyd is. I bow down. Loyd I think you and I only met once, but I was pretty close to Matt and Bruce Pollock. They always spoke highly of you and cited you when we were trying to sneak up on some secret fishing hole.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Nov 17, 2017 - 12:00pm PT
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Good stuff, Loyd! Dig around some more - you might come up with some Dolt treasures!
As winter comes down I find I'm not acclimatizing to cold as well as in the past, so I dug out my 40-odd year old knicker sox, last used with YMS to wear under regular pants. Beats hell out of longies!
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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Nov 17, 2017 - 12:41pm PT
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I took basic from you, Wayne. We met in the lodge lounge where we got our gear from a cabinet next to the main doors. We walked from there to left of the Swan Slab Gully area, going past Loyd's fly casting pond. I still can only tie a bowline the way you taught me.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Nov 17, 2017 - 01:54pm PT
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Hi, TM - yes that was right at the very beginning - we were running YMS out of a dress shop! Amazing you still have the old Climb Yosemite poster - looks like you bivouacked in it! I still have several new copies.
Nice to see Loyd posting, too.
Fun memories.
W.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 17, 2017 - 03:04pm PT
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Nice with the field copy and 2 archival copies of the red book. Lots of nice plates in that one that are not in the green one.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 17, 2017 - 04:08pm PT
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START THE BIDDING!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 17, 2017 - 08:45pm PT
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Love me the old guidebooks. Good find! Thx for posting up!
Those patches are great!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 17, 2017 - 08:48pm PT
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Hi, Loyd.
Your name labels is misspelled.
Mouse
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Nov 17, 2017 - 09:13pm PT
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Is YMS actually defunct? Or is it so small as to be invisible? There's still a YMS down in the Ditch, but up in Tuolumne it's hiding near the TM Lodge, isn't it? Or are both versions "Gond With The Wind"?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 17, 2017 - 09:57pm PT
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Loyd,
Do you remember Pat O'Donnell, who was something akin to an upper level manager for Curry Company in the 70s?
I ask, because I started climbing in the mid-70s, and his son, Matt O'Donnell, whom Pat took up Church Bowl Chimney, Mt. Shasta and other climbs was an early inspiration for me to get up to Yosemite and find out what it was all about.
Matt (whom I long lost contact with and is nowhere to be found on social media) liked to tell climbing stories about his dad, which included having you and Bridwell and others to dinner at his table in Yosemite on a semi-regular, or perhaps occasional basis.
A decade after the fact, I mentioned that to Bridwell (and maybe Brossman), and heard that Pat was a good man.
I googled him some time ago and didn't find any conclusive links to Pat or his career.
I recall, by the late 70s, Pat moved to Colorado in some other management capacity.
(Did find some reference to a Pat O'Donnell in Colorado who was involved in some form of conservation work, but I don't think it's the right person, due to active timeframe).
Any recollections of Pat O'Donnell you would care to share?
Thanks,
Roy McClenahan
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Nov 18, 2017 - 07:20am PT
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Nice find, Loyd!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 18, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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Pat was President of Patagonia for a time while I was there. I never new he rock climbed to the point where he would get on Half Dome.
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Lurking Fear
Boulder climber
Bishop, California
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Nov 19, 2017 - 05:41am PT
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I worked for YMS for five or six years in Tuolumne and Badger Pass but I never got a patch.; I guess I should have taken one off of the uniform. Bruce was my boss. Guiding in Tuolumne was something I'll never forget.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 19, 2017 - 11:06am PT
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Any uniform I had from YMS was turned in at the end of the guiding season.
The only memorabilia I have are a couple pictures with clients and some sort of employment document, probably from MCA, when they held the concession in the 80s?
Thanks for the picture of Bruce and Pat at the base of Half Dome, Walter!
Bruce definitely had some favorite return clients over the years.
Remember the guy with just one arm whom he guided up Fairview?
Bruce actually went to the trouble of getting video shot during the climb, which we all watched in the Rat Room.
...........................................
Donini's reference to Pat O'Donnell working at Patagonia helped me to dig up some of what I was looking for:
Yosemite National Park has a special allure for O'Donnell, who ditched his Bay Area engineering job in 1968 to move to the park and rock climb full-time. During his few years at the park, O'Donnell honed his climbing skills to a near-professional level while he also moved from bellman at the 1,600-room Yosemite Lodge to desk clerk to food and beverage manager to manager of the park's Badger Pass Ski Area.
From Yosemite Lodge, O'Donnell went to Kirkwood ski area, where he spent one season cutting runs, building lifts and a day lodge. At the end of that season, O'Donnell was tapped to handle operations at Keystone. In 1981, O'Donnell got a call from Yvon Chouinard, the climbing guru whose 8-year-old Patagonia Clothing Co. was becoming a model for environmental responsibility and now distributes millions of dollars every year to environmental causes. He wanted O'Donnell to run his company.
O'Donnell was on the first American team to attempt the 26,700-foot Annapurna in the Himalyas in the mid-'70s. Three of the six climbers in O'Donnell's group were swept to their deaths when an avalanche tore through the last camp, only 40 minutes after O'Donnell left his tent. The 16-day march back to civilization left him questioning everything.
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O’Donnell’s job history includes serving as vice president of operations at Keystone, president and CEO of the Whistler, British Columbia, ski area, and running Patagonia Clothing Co. He joined Aspen Skiing in 1993 and became CEO in 1996.
 Still curious about any anecdotes relating to climbing, working or hanging out with Pat O'Donnell in Yosemite during the late 60s/early 70s.
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