Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Nov 16, 2017 - 09:35am PT
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This is the fifth assent since 1993, and the first two of those were by Lynn Hill. Lynn is a badass ... kind of on her own planet if you know what I mean. 24 years till the 5th assent. Damn
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Matt's
climber
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Nov 16, 2017 - 10:47am PT
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don't think adam ondra freed it.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Nov 16, 2017 - 11:12am PT
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Scott did not send. Don't count.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 16, 2017 - 11:19am PT
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Yes, ........ Scott Burke did not send .....
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 16, 2017 - 11:31am PT
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May not have sent, but seems Scott and Brooke laid a lot of the groundwork for those free ascents.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2017 - 12:23pm PT
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If Burke could have led the Roof he would have. He's had plenty of time afterwards to come back and redpoint and he never did. Strong effort but falls short.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Nov 16, 2017 - 12:29pm PT
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YUP complete route=sending all pitches, otherwise it is not. So you get on a route then grab a cam mid-route pull on the cam then finish the route free is send. NO.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Nov 16, 2017 - 12:31pm PT
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great reminder of what a phenomenal climber Lynn is.
For what it is worth we always considered it a free ascent of whatever we climbed if all moves were done free while swinging leads. So, half the pitches were typically done "on toprope".
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Nov 16, 2017 - 03:54pm PT
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Ondra gave the Great Roof three tries but did not successfully free it.
He didn't redpoint Changing Corners either
From what I've seen of the various Internet postings, it's not even clear that Ondra tried to free Changing Corners, and if he did, how close he came. Sure he's the greatest and probably could do it relatively quickly in a serious attempt, but how people post that he freed it (by any definition) is beyond me--suppose it's just standard hero worship with some poor reading comprehension thrown in.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Nov 16, 2017 - 07:30pm PT
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What really was the style of Burke's ascent? He TR'd the Great Roof with no falls, hangs, etc.? Is that the only transgression or is there more?
Other folks have acknowledged and accepted free ascents of El Cap routes without leading every pitch; some TRing pitches such as Jorgeson on Dawn Wall.
So what's the deal with Burke and why the dispute?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2017 - 10:06am PT
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He was up there for 200-odd days and could never muster up a free lead of that pitch. It's not like he just seconded it during a one-day ascent swapping leads. He wanted to lead every pitch free and came up short. And never went back afterwards. Conclusion - he didn't because he knew he couldn't.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 17, 2017 - 03:59pm PT
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This is such a small club that it's relatively easy to determine who accomplished what up there.
Lynn set the standard on the Nose by freeing every pitch. Bad ass, and of course ahead of it's time in more ways than one.
A team could say "we freed the nose" swapping leads, but for an individual to say they did it, they'd have to live up to Lynn's standard IMO.
So that brings me to Beth. I remember she freed it with Tommy as a team. Did she also do all pitches on lead herself? If she swapped leads, considering every other person who "freed" it did every pitch, does she qualify as one of the 5 who freed it, and if so then Scott should really be included.
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
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