Joshua Tree wilderness power drilling.

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Highdesertman

Trad climber
jtree ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 31, 2017 - 10:28am PT
So a very special area of the park is under attack. Less than two weeks after an ill advised face book posting of a bouldering area I've been climbing at for over ten yrs innocent slabs have started sprouting bolts with anchors! Right on a main trail through the wilderness. Didn't take long to discover it was a few local boys who had seen my face book posting and went out to see what I was up to. I don't believe Joshua Tree needs any more bolted slabs period. But most especially in the wilderness. About five bolted slab routes with anchors have been drilled up so far and I cant just sit by and watch the total trashing of an incredibly beautiful place. I want to chop these routes but its so damn much work I cant do it by myself. Any locals want to go bouldering and chop routes at the same time? The local boys responsible for this travesty should be the ones to clean up their mess but I doubt this will happen. These guys are going to get defensive as they try to rationalize what they have done. And if the park service wants to know where these routes are I will be glad to show them what's happening. And at that point I will be saying some names cause I know who is doing this. I've tried to establish some dialog with these guys but they wont return a call so oh well chop, chop, chop. Signed with good intentions Dino Banco.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Oct 31, 2017 - 10:32am PT
So go chop them, talk is cheap. There are Jtree Rangers on here, so they know. If this hurts you so bad.
Highdesertman

Trad climber
jtree ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2017 - 10:40am PT
Talk is cheap. Your response is proof of that!
locker

climber
Oct 31, 2017 - 10:41am PT

"I don't believe Joshua Tree needs any more bolted slabs period. But most especially in the wilderness"...

I disagree...





"And if the park service wants to know where these routes are I will be glad to show them what's happening. And at that point I will be saying some names cause I know who is doing this."...


That'll go over big...





Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 31, 2017 - 10:44am PT
So go to the park HQ and drop the dime!
Iíll give ya a lift if you need one.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Oct 31, 2017 - 11:01am PT
If they are real climbs and FAs, whats the problem? Rap bolted or on lead? Difficulty?

It's never a good idea to involve the government.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Oct 31, 2017 - 11:04am PT
Obviously, you are so hurt by all the trauma these bolts create, go chop them, big talkers are weaksauce. Mr, Pebble Puller.
locker

climber
Oct 31, 2017 - 11:06am PT


"If they are real climbs and FAs, whats the problem?"...

...

jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Oct 31, 2017 - 11:07am PT
If I find bolts were they don't belong, I don't post a rant on ST or anywhere, I just go chopping not shopping for attaboys/support on the net. so sad.

Bet you never even tried the new rigs, could be good climbing?
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Oct 31, 2017 - 11:16am PT
^

+1 Jeff I've never chopped a bolt but agree if you're gonna do it, do it without ranting on the net and do it in good style. Getting public officials involved can only lead to bad things.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 31, 2017 - 11:19am PT
Bolting is legal and accepted by land managers in Wilderness. It is sometimes a controversial issue, depending on how one interprets the wording of The Wilderness Act, however.

The OP needs to remember:

1) he's a climber, and whoever put the bolts in is also a climber. Complaining to authorities only hurts climbers

2) he uses chalk, which might offend some Wilderness goers, just like bolts offend him

3) Josh is public land for all people to enjoy

4) bolting with a hand drill is legal and accepted in Wilderness

5) chopping bolts is destructive, and only justifiable if the bolts are placed on or, in certain cases, inappropriately close to an existing route

6) tolerance

locker

climber
Oct 31, 2017 - 11:26am PT



...

Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Oct 31, 2017 - 12:24pm PT
1) he's a climber, and whoever put the bolts in is also a climber. Complaining to authorities only hurts climbers

I don't think he is a climber, I think he is a boulderer
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Oct 31, 2017 - 12:35pm PT
Credit: jeff constine
Credit: jeff constine
I like bouldering routes not pebbles.

PS Maybe the OP is bummed he lost the race to the FA of those rigs.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Oct 31, 2017 - 12:42pm PT
It you are bolting boulder moves, shame. I was out at JT recently and saw former 20-30 foot boulder moves that are now sporting bolts.

C'mon people. Pack up your kit and head out to Queen Mountain etc. There is still a lot of obscure rock that has route potential. Do the work.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Oct 31, 2017 - 12:45pm PT
Credit: jeff constine
New route Not Queen Mt lol
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Oct 31, 2017 - 12:47pm PT
And if the park service wants to know where these routes are I will be glad to show them what's happening.

If you follow through with that then you are causing WAAAY more problems for climbers than the people who placed the bolts.

But if you want more rules and regulations for climbers then go ahead :/
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Oct 31, 2017 - 12:48pm PT
That is what I'm talkin' bout. Virgin patina. Looks great.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Oct 31, 2017 - 12:50pm PT
Credit: un
New route not Queen Mt. lol
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 31, 2017 - 12:53pm PT
No statement by op that he has direct knowledge it was placed by power.

Please clarify op.
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