SUPERTOPO CLIMBING GOLD: 2.3 Threads: Climbing Conversation

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nah000

climber
now/here
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 25, 2017 - 07:56pm PT
SUPERTOPO CLIMBING GOLD: 0.0 A Guide to SuperTopo Gold
SUPERTOPO CLIMBING GOLD: 1.0 Trip Reports
SUPERTOPO CLIMBING GOLD: 2.0 Threads: Foundational Series
SUPERTOPO CLIMBING GOLD: 2.1 Threads: Individuals
SUPERTOPO CLIMBING GOLD: 2.2 Threads: Areas + Routes
SUPERTOPO CLIMBING GOLD: 2.3 Threads: Climbing Conversation
SUPERTOPO CLIMBING GOLD: 3.0 Single Posts



My hope is that this index of SuperTopo Climbing Gold will collect and organize the highest quality climbing related information, narrative and entertainment on the SuperTopo Climber’s Forum.

As such, the goal is not to catalog every single thread or tr, but rather to mine the best 1-3% [or so] worth of climbing related threads and posts that this forum has to offer. To add your favourite hidden and not so hidden climbing related SuperTopo gems to these index threads, just post the thread, tr, or single post that made a significant impression on you, to any of the six threads and i'll keep [in time :)] compiling and making them clickable on the first post of the applicable threads.

There are only two rules and two instructions:

Rules: 1. no self-authored nominations
..... 2. nominations need to be somewhat climbing related.

Instructions: 1. be specific regarding which threads or posts you deem worthy [ie. i need something more specific than "all of jimmy joe willicker's threads”]
..... 2. ask yourself whether it's just a personal fave or whether it rises to the level of quality that these lists generally rise to, thus far.





2.3 THREADS: CLIMBING CONVERSATION [by subject]



A. ETHICS + STYLE:

Bolts: 1970s Bolt protected run-out slab climbing [Roger Breedlove: Nov. 30, 2006]
..... The Murder Of The Impossible Messner Mtn. #15 '71 [Steve Grossman: May 6, 2009]
Bouldering: Birth of Highballing [Largo: Nov. 4, 2011]
..... Hip & Sassy Bouldrin' Thread: old dads'n youngsters rip it! [Tarbuster: Sep. 22, 2006]
Dope: Pot and Slab climbing [wstmrnclmr: Jan. 21, 2012]
Fashion: Halibut Hats and Climbers-What Gives? [guido: Feb. 13, 2013]
Historical Revision: Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated [rolo: Jul. 19, 2012]
..... Museum climbs? [WBraun: Sep. 11, 2007]
..... the "law" of the first ascent [jghedge: Sep. 9, 2013]
Rap-Bolting: Best First Ascent Style (approx. title) [Ed Hartouni: Jun. 20, 2014]
..... Doug Robinson, Sean Jones, rap bolt South face of Half Dome! [coz: Mar. 29, 2008]
Regional Ethics: Side by Side Ethics, Practicality or the Road to Hell? [Toker Villain: May 4, 2008]
Rivalries: Regional climbing rivalries: examples? [Rick A: Jun. 24, 2007]
Sandbagging or Overrating: Most Overrated Climbs in America [donini: Sep. 4, 2009]
..... Sandbagged Areas [johnr9q: Oct. 9, 2007]
..... Sandbagging appreciation thread [mcreel: Apr. 19, 2018]
Soloing: Iconic soloing shots [GDavis: Dec. 25, 2012]
Trad: Trad areas? [bachar: Sep. 22, 2007]
..... What Is Trad ????????? [Tarbuster: Apr. 8, 2008]



B. GEAR + TECHNIQUES:

Catalogs: Classic Ice Primer- Chouinard Catalog 1968 [Steve Grossman: May 19, 2007]
..... Crackjacks from 1964 [Peter Haan: May 25, 2006]
..... L'Equipement de l'Alpiniste 1900 [Marlow: Oct. 5, 2012]
..... North Face Catalog # 1- circa 1968 [guido: Sep. 14, 2011]
Gear: Boots: Got Klettershoe? [Tarbuster: Mar. 9, 2008]
..... La Sportiva mountaineering boots: 1928-2000 [Marlow: Oct. 18, 2017]
..... Those old BIG leather boots? [RDB: Jan. 18, 2009]
Gear: Hardware: Anyone know the history of Fifi Hooks ? [Jan: Apr. 22, 2018]
..... Best Rap Anchors? [Slater: Nov. 17, 2009]
..... cams before friends, Lurps before ledges [Jello: Oct. 19, 2006]
..... Chouinard Alpine hammer and Piolet questions? [RDB: Jan. 13, 2009]
..... Fifi length and being short [Dave C: Jul. 6, 2010]
..... Haul bag on a fifi for wall climbing solo. Pros+Cons [thekidcormier: Feb. 16, 2013]
..... It takes balls to use nuts... [Jello: Nov. 18, 2006]
..... Old Piton From The Higher Spire-Circa? [guido: Dec. 17, 2011]
..... TOMAHAWKS! [Minerals: Jun. 12, 2009]
..... What's an R.P.? [Ed Hartouni: Aug. 1, 2006]
..... Who invented modern reverse-curve pick Ice tools? [McHale's Navy: Feb. 19, 2013]
Gear: Harnesses: Anybody Ever Fall Out Of A Swami? [ionlyski: Feb. 18, 2017]
..... Adventures with swamis? [Mooser: Jul. 14, 2006]
..... Swami belt [Dirk: Feb. 27, 2006]
..... Swami Belt Tightness? [blackguardx: Feb. 20, 2010]
..... The Whillans Harness [Rhodo-Router: Feb. 24, 2006]
..... Whats the longest fall you took wearing a Swami Belt? [john hansen: Aug. 13, 2007]
..... Whillans Harness: Did You Ever Use One? [Mighty Hiker: Dec. 19, 2008]
Gear: Misc: Chouinard label history [oldgear: Jan. 27, 2012]
..... Cool Website of Animated Knots......all kinds of knots. [Micronut: Sep. 13, 2017]
..... Dr. Piton's Ultimate Russian Aider Thread ['Pass the Pitons' Pete: Dec. 4, 2007]
..... Historical and Outstanding Mountaineering Rucksacks [nutstory: Nov. 19, 2015]
Techniques: Levittation: The Offwidth Rennaissance (Mountain 106) [marty(r): Jul. 16, 2007]
..... Offwidth Question [James: Nov. 1, 2005]
..... Solo Winter Route CASSIN Mount McKinley. [Watermann2: Dec. 11, 2014]



C. TYPOLOGIES:

Buildering: Best Buildering Photo Contest [survival: Nov. 26, 2008]
Chimneys: Chimneys; Not for everyone [Todd Gordon: Jul. 21, 2007]
Choss: Sometimes they hold out on us... The Choss Diaries [Mungeclimber: Aug. 8, 2008]
Cracks: Addicted to Crack! [Big Mike: Sep. 29, 2012]
..... Best Hand Cracks around - which ones are the best? [Levy: Aug. 13, 2007]
..... ROOF CRACKS!!!!!! [P.Kingsbury: Jan.9, 2009]
..... The Best Splitter cracks [clustiere: Apr. 29, 2006]
Dykes:For the love of Dykes!!! (On topic) [RyanD: Dec. 23, 2013]
Mantles: Hardest mantle in the USA? [bachar: Feb. 22, 2007]
Offwidths: Offwidth tips and The Twilight Zone [Peter Haan: Dec. 11, 2005]
Slabs: Difficulty of Slab Climbs [Mighty Hiker: Jul. 10, 2006]
..... Difficulty of slab climbs II [rbolton: Jul. 17, 2006]
..... Slab Climbing [Vitaliy M.: Nov. 23, 2011]
..... What is the ultimate slab route? [Mungeclimber: Dec. 2, 2010]
Towers: Top Ten Towers to climb [Rich Sims: Mar. 4, 2008]
Unclimbed: Obscure Rock from Nevada and Elsewhere [johnnyrig: Nov. 14, 2014]
Water: By the sea, the shining sea [MH2: Nov. 17, 2008]



D. STORIES:

..... All this for 800 bucks! [Chicken Skinner: Aug. 13, 2006]
..... Amazing solo stories... [bachar: Mar. 28, 2008]
..... Calling all old skool JT craggers! [Watusi: Jul. 8, 2005]
..... Donini and the Mountain Holy Man, at 17,777Ft. in Szechuan! [Fritz: Jan. 2, 2014]
..... EDZILLA: Queen of the High Desert OW (OW, not OT) [L: Mar. 4, 2010]
..... Flying Buttress direct FFA free solo story fact or fiction? [RyanD: Feb. 3, 2014]
..... Golden Josh Years Stories and Slander [?: Apr. 10, 2006]
..... Largo Writing Contest [looking sketchy there...: Apr. 10, 2006]
..... obscure history [Oli: May 31, 2007]
..... Old Geezers! (Yes you!) Write up your FA Stories and tidbits [Karl Baba: Jun. 4, 2007]
..... Rappelling El Capitan [Googlymoogly: Jul. 24, 2012]
..... Riding the Rails [Dick Erb: Nov. 13, 2009]
..... Scary Solo Stories [Maysho: Aug. 19, 2006]
..... share your personal climbing writings here [Tarbuster: May 17, 2006]
..... Stonemaster Stories: Goto 2.0 B. STONEMASTER STORIES
..... The five stages of “backing-off” climbs. [Fritz: Dec. 19, 2009]
..... You Want Climbing Lore - I'll Give You Climbing Lore [Don Lauria: Nov. 3, 2008]



E. CLIMBERS + CLIMBER'S PHOTOS:

..... 1982- jtree [the kid: jan. 29, 2008]
..... Climber Photos Prior to 1976 [Don Lauria: Sep. 18, 2017]
..... Climbing Photos and Videos Corner - Your content only [Mungeclimber: Mar. 7, 2015]
..... Eldo Prancers [bob d'antonio: Jul. 2, 2007]
..... Fifty years of climbing club...the roster [donini: Jul. 11, 2018]
..... Hit Me With Your Best Shot - Best Photo [Slater: Nov. 20, 2011]
..... Name ten climbers who influenced your climbing the most [Ricardo Carlos: Dec. 30, 2007]
..... Occupy Supertopo with Climbing Info [mike m: Oct. 5, 2011]
..... Old School Photos [bob d'antonio: Feb. 23, 2007]
..... The Lesher Archives [survival: Jun. 16, 2016]
..... The most ripped climber... [bachar: Feb. 27, 2007]
..... Then came a CLIMBING photo thread... [Wootles: Aug. 30, 2007]
..... What did you climb today! [mike m: Oct. 27,2010]
..... What happened to all the "Glory Boys/Girls" [Russ Walling: Feb. 7, 2008]
..... Where are They Now? Old Leavenworth (Wa.) Climbers [Lionheart: Feb. 25, 2010]
..... Who the hell are you people?... Supertopoan Pictures [piquaclimber: Mar. 22, 2007]
..... Yosemite Wall Climbing Photos [Minerals: Oct. 20, 2006]
More Links: Big Mike's On + Not-So-On Topic Photo Thread Compendium



F. THE LADIES:

..... Bev Johnson Stories [10b4me: May 17, 2006]
..... First All Female Ascent and First Female Solo of El Cap [Steve Grossman: Sep. 30, 2007]
..... No Spare Rib, Rosie Andrews, Women's Climbing 1984 [Mimi: Mar. 4, 2008]
..... The Chick History Thread [Melissa: Jan. 10, 2005]
..... Women Rock!: Goto 2.0 C. TARBUSTER'S CAMPFIRE CONVERSATION CURATION: Women Rock!



G. MAGS + LIT:

..... 70's Gear Catalogs/Mags: Post Your Stonemaster Era Archives [Tarbuster: Jun. 25, 2006]
..... *All Time Fave 70's Mag Covers* [Tarbuster: Jul. 19, 2006]
..... Being published - how climbers learned about climbing BITD [Ed Hartouni: Oct. 12, 2017]
..... *Name Your Favorite Mag Based Climbing Lit Pieces and Why* [Tarbuster: Apr. 25, 2006]
..... Origin/evolution of the modern climbing topo? [Jerry Dodrill: Oct. 8, 2008]
L

climber
And I'm searchin' for waterspouts...
Oct 27, 2017 - 08:46am PT
I think Micronut's thread about animated knot-tying is worthy of inclusion...probably under Gear & Techniques. What say you?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3010620&msg=3010625#msg3010625
nah000

climber
now/here
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2017 - 10:14pm PT
thanks hardly visible, added to D. Stories:

i don't think i'd ever seen this one... highlarious: EDZILLA: Queen of the High Desert OW (OW, not OT) [L: Mar. 4, 2010]

and to E. Climbers + Climber's Photos:
Climber Photos Prior to 1976 [Don Lauria: Sep. 18, 2017]

thanks L, added to B. Gear + Techniques:
Cool Website of Animated Knots......all kinds of knots. [Micronut: Sep. 13, 2017]

and Tarbuster... you suggested the following for single posts, but it is an interesting thread, what with Ghost's contribution, so i'm posting it under G. Mags + Lit:

Being published - how climbers learned about climbing BITD [Ed Hartouni: Oct. 12, 2017]
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 3, 2018 - 03:46pm PT


1. Wide World of Yosemite Valley Off-Widths [by Marty(r)}

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=37685&tn=0&mr=0

especially the part how Russ, Jaybro and Roger sandbagged Mental block [Yosemite , Sentinel creek]
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Jan 3, 2018 - 04:00pm PT


Nah000 - Thanks for putting together this guide!
Do climbing museums count? There is a lot of awesome gear threads on Supertopo.


Please include "Dolt Stories" by Don Lauria





Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 14, 2018 - 08:18pm PT
B. GEAR + TECHNIQUE

The Whillans Harness
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/157620/The-Whillans-Harness

Whillans Harness: Did You Ever Use One?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/746632/Whillans-Harness-Did-You-Ever-Use-One

Adventures with Swamis?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/221535/Adventures-with-swamis

What's the longest fall you took wearing a swami belt?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/433204/Whats-the-longest-fall-you-took-wearing-a-Swami-Belt

Anybody Ever Fall out of a Swami?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2946769/Anybody-Ever-Fall-Out-Of-A-Swami

Swami belt
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/158904/Swami-belt

Swami Belt Tightness?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1247784/Swami-Belt-Tightness

Those old BIG leather boots
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/765905/Those-old-BIG-leather-boots

La Sportiva mountaineering boots 1928-2000
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3021299/La-Sportiva-mountaineering-boots-1928-2000

[edit]

Chouinard label history
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1734614/Chouinard-label-history
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 22, 2018 - 07:58am PT
E. CLIMBERS + CLIMBER'S PHOTOS:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/511673/Old-Fart-New-Scanner-some-San-Diego-people

 If the links in this photo are broken due to photobucket pay wall policy, use a browser extension and most all of them will show.

[edit]

B. GEAR + TECHNIQUE
FIFI HOOKS
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3081451/Anyone-know-the-history-of-Fifi-Hooks
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2073296/Haul-bag-on-a-fifi-for-wall-climbing-solo-Pros-Cons
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1210845/Fifi-length-and-being-short

 Might want to consider creating subcategories under the gear/technique header: i.e. harnesses, fifi hooks, and etc. as the index for gear threads expands w/some of these latest nominations.

[edit]

B. GEAR + TECHNIQUES:
SANDBAGGING
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2133553&msg=2133553#msg2133553
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1765875&msg=1765875#msg1765875
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=7951&msg=7951#msg7951
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1196725/Whats-the-most-sandbagged-climb-in-Yosemite-Valley
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/903940/Classic-Bachar-Sandbags
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/462029/Sandbagged-Areas
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=134728&msg=134728#msg134728
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=37293&msg=37293#msg37293
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3080526/Sandbagging-appreciation-thread

[edit]
E. CLIMBERS + CLIMBER'S PHOTOS:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2824064/The-Lesher-Archives

Something of an inverse sandbagging thread: Category?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/949612/Most-Overrated-Climbs-in-America

[Edit]
C. TYPOLOGIES:
Space Stations

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/443811/Josh-Space-Stations
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2504177/How-to-get-to-the-Space-Station-in-J-Tree
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2971160/space-station

[edit]
B. GEAR + TECHNIQUE:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/230775/Whats-an-R-P
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Apr 22, 2018 - 11:54am PT
Just an atta-boy to nah000 and Mt. Tar Buster for digging up this goldmine.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 26, 2018 - 08:33am PT
B. GEAR + TECHNIQUE:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2935415/Roland-Pauligk-RIP
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 13, 2018 - 06:51pm PT
E. CLIMBERS + CLIMBER'S PHOTOS:

As thin as the meaningful content has been on this forum in recent years, it's the people still present and these kinds of conversations that keep it going:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3104117/Fifty-years-of-climbing-club-the-roster
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jul 14, 2018 - 01:32am PT
*

And, the story from "The Bird" , that he sent to MartyR =


http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3104712/Kathy-An-unpublished-Bird-tell-all
nah000

climber
now/here
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2019 - 01:12pm PT
ok. this one has been seriously neglected... here we go:

Alexey: sweet... sent it over to 2.2 areas + routes: yosemite: general... thanks:
Wide World of Yosemite Valley Off-Widths [marty(r): Jun. 28, 2004]



karabin museum: yeah, the gear and also tool building threads are one of the biggest missing gaps, from my perspective, on here... adding them is on my to do list... but the to do list is large and only gets tackled when i feel like it, so feel free to nominate as you see fit. the dolt stories thread is already listed under Bill Feurer on the individual's list, and i try, with some exceptions, to only list in one place as a more comprehensive cross referencing is beyond my scope. thanks though.



mr. t: oh, what was that about a lot of the gear threads being awol? nice motherlode:
to Gear: Misc:
Chouinard label history [oldgear: Jan. 27, 2012]

to Gear: Boots:
La Sportiva mountaineering boots: 1928-2000 [Marlow: Oct. 18, 2017]
Those old BIG leather boots? [RDB: Jan. 18, 2009]

to Gear: Harnesses:
Anybody Ever Fall Out Of A Swami? [ionlyski: Feb. 18, 2017]
Adventures with swamis? [Mooser: Jul. 14, 2006]
Swami belt [Dirk: Feb. 27, 2006]
Swami Belt Tightness? [blackguardx: Feb. 20, 2010]
The Whillans Harness [Rhodo-Router: Feb. 24, 2006]
Whats the longest fall you took wearing a Swami Belt? [john hansen: Aug. 13, 2007]
Whillans Harness: Did You Ever Use One? [Mighty Hiker: Dec. 19, 2008]

to Gear: Hardware:
Anyone know the history of Fifi Hooks ? [Jan: Apr. 22, 2018]
Fifi length and being short [Dave C: Jul. 6, 2010]
Haul bag on a fifi for wall climbing solo. Pros+Cons [thekidcormier: Feb. 16, 2013]
What's an R.P.? [Ed Hartouni: Aug. 1, 2006]

to Climbers + Climbers Photos:
Fifty years of climbing club...the roster [donini: Jul. 11, 2018]
The Lesher Archives [survival: Jun. 16, 2016]

the security council vetoed a few of the sandbagging threads that were on the light side... ha! but these golden nugggets are now listed:
to Ethics + Style: Sandbagging or Overrating:
Most Overrated Climbs in America [donini: Sep. 4, 2009]
Sandbagged Areas [johnr9q: Oct. 9, 2007]
Sandbagging appreciation thread [mcreel: Apr. 19, 2018]

sent this one to the 2.1 Individuals thread:
Bachar, John: Classic Bachar Sandbags [fosburg: Jul. 15, 2009]

sent this one to the 2.2 Areas + Routes: Yosemite: General:
What's the most sandbagged climb in Yosemite Valley? [mason: Jun. 17, 2010]

sent this one over to 2.1 individuals:
Australian
Pauligk, Roland; 1937: Roland Pauligk RIP [Alan Rubin, Jan. 24, 2017]

these were sent over to the areas + routes: joshua tree category in 2.2... too bad the warbler's posts were lost... if anybody is able to find his posts on the wayback machine or other they should repost them up:
Josh Space Stations [Base104: Sep. 2, 2007]
How to get to the "Space Station" in J-Tree [A-Train: Oct. 4, 2014]
space station [chefer: Apr. 27, 2017]

this one seems more suitable in 2.2 so cal climbing culture, so i posted it there, but it could go either way for sure:
Old Fart ; New Scanner...some San Diego people. [BeeHay: Jan. 6, 2008]



GotD: included this one under Bridwell over in the individuals section... thanks:
Kathy: An unpublished Bird tell all [marty(r): Jul. 13, 2018]


thanks gents... i'll do my best not to let this lag as much in the future, as it did this round...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 13, 2019 - 01:42pm PT
What a bunch of work! Whose idea was this anyway? Ha ha.
Good on you for culling the herd wherever appropriate, nah000.

Yes, I'll take a look at those Space Station threads and see if I saved any to my hard drive prior the Warbler deletions.

Just looked: I did! Two out of three (Josh Space Stations + space station), so I can repatriate Kevin's posts at the end of the threads. I saved them in April 2018, so they should be pretty flush.
Wayback Machine had just 38 posts of the "How to get to the Space Station in J Tree". Kev hadn't said much yet, but I will toss it in.

The heavy lifting will be repatriating Kevin's posts in my "What Is Trad????" thread.
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