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JLyons
Sport climber
Cali
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 10, 2017 - 09:07pm PT
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I've looked up past Lily Rock and wondered many times about what the rock was like up there, or what sort of routes might be already climbed or waiting to be. Call them the others, or whatever, I'd love to hear more about that part of the hill. I put some posts from another thread below, didn't want to sidetrack that discussion there. Chime in if that was your playground years ago, or if you're just now starting to explore that way. It's pretty hard to know when old pure trad routes were done before, seems liek there is enough rock up there for everyone if you're willing to make the hike.
Roadsclimbs is correct.
Many previously led routes in the area behind Tahquitz that have been led by me and others are now clip ups.
I have been accused of keeping those climbs a secret, but it's more true to say we left them as we found them- including the mystery and the adventure. I'll show these routes to anyone that won't make them " theirs ".
The " developers " like to lag bolt signs to trees, remove any offending trees and shrubs, and advertise thier " discovery ".
I am not interested in villifying these folks. I am sad to see the changing of the gaurd be so lacking in reverence.
now would be a great time to claim exactly, and I mean exactly, what you have done concerning the "Others." Everyone I know is very respectful of routes that have already been done. How can anyone know if there is no record and one passed by as a ghost without disturbing even a blade of grass? I look for old broken branches, or faded tat on a tree, or the obvious scar of a loose rock removal or a pin scar. Short of these subtle signs and without a recorded claim, how is one to have a climbing history? How can one re-write history if it has never been written in the first place? Mountain Project is perfect for this. Or post trip reports here on ST. Secret areas are only secret until other intrepid people find them just like you did.
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JLyons
Sport climber
Cali
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2017 - 09:34am PT
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I guess I can share a bit, now that I've hiked up there a bit. It looks like there are lines everywhere, the hike up is longer than it looks. Strange looking down from this angle, definitely far up enough to keep the tourists out.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 14, 2017 - 09:38am PT
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There’s some serious manzanita thrashing up there!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 14, 2017 - 10:55am PT
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good on ya. thx for the pics. I'm too remote to make that place work for me regularly, but having always wondered its nice to see it get some interest.
Is this the same as Devil's Staircase here...
https://www.mountainproject.com/map/109014094
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Oct 14, 2017 - 05:43pm PT
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I have been climbing up there for years and the only people I ever see are my own friends or friends of friends. The hiking weeds out all but the most serious climbers. It's just too much work when something as good as Tahquitz main cliff is right in front. Mostly it is older climbers who have done all the Tahquitz routes they can, two or three or ten times. After a while you want something different and then the hike doesn't seem so bad. It's the dead opposite of Joshua Tree or Holcomb valley where you can roll out of your car and clip bolts. The routes in the back country require a full rack of doubles and the talent to use all of it. Furthermore there is almost no bouldering to speak of. It's just not a place that will ever get that popular. I really don't see the point of all the secret sauce in this particular case. Same deal with El Cajon Mountain, Corte Madera and Eagle Peak in San Diego. The hiking limits the visits and those places you only have to carry draws.
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JLyons
Sport climber
Cali
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2017 - 11:42am PT
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Here’s a bump, in all the many times I’ve been up here, I’ve never noticed the mini dome up on Marion. That would be a hike, but I bet someone has at least scoped it out. Does anyone have any tales? In the picture below, it’s up on the right shoulder - maybe a few pitches tall?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Dec 22, 2017 - 01:26pm PT
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Yes, there are a number of good routes up there past Tahquitz. There is quite a bit of info on "The Proj" (aka Mountain Project).
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Dec 22, 2017 - 01:42pm PT
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I've wondered every single time I've been up there, too.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 22, 2017 - 03:08pm PT
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If I recall correctly ... Harvey T. Carter put up some climbs in the mid 70's
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ExfifteenExfifteen
climber
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Dec 22, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
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where is tahquitz anyways? I never could find that rock!!11!!
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ExfifteenExfifteen
climber
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Dec 22, 2017 - 03:26pm PT
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every now and then you can bang turns from the lookout tower all the way to humber park... keep the fingers crossed and do the dance...
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| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
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