Margo Hayes sends Biographie/Realization(5.15a)

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BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 25, 2017 - 10:12pm PT
Margo Hayes has climbed another 5.15 sending Biographie/Realization at Ceuse on September 24th.

http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/margo-hayes-sends-biographie-realization-5-15a

Those wishing to meet the Boulder-based climber can do so at the annual ASCA fundraiser at Planet Granite San Francisco on October 24th!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Sep 25, 2017 - 10:45pm PT

Warbler ... Warbler ... Warbler
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Sep 25, 2017 - 11:02pm PT
https://www.8a.nu/images/news/large/636419715789169734_1111.jpg
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 26, 2017 - 03:55am PT

linked by mcreel above; from:
https://www.instagram.com/jan_novak_photography/
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Sep 26, 2017 - 04:09am PT
every now and again I feel that I was born to soon, the fun and oppertunity to be a professional shutter bug
Snapping pics, for pay of the great antics and physiques
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Sep 26, 2017 - 05:02am PT
Think what she will do when she goes trad. Amazing talent.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Sep 26, 2017 - 06:24am PT

Proud!

Hayes’ ascent is the 15th and—long-awaited—first female ascent on record.

“The difficulties of this endeavor were overshadowed by the sound of the birds, laughter of friends, and the changing of the seasons,” Hayes writes. “To experience the delicate power that Biographie holds is a true privilege.”

micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Sep 26, 2017 - 07:16am PT
Fantastic photo Clint. She looks so stoked!

Remember the old videos of guys like Jim Karn, Boone Speed, and Dale Goddard grunting, screaming, and throwing tantrums up a route? Those guys were the epitome of the gnarly sport proj.

This gal is all smiles! Dig it.
L

climber
Tiptoeing through the chilly waters of life
Sep 26, 2017 - 09:02am PT
ß Î Ø T Ç H, too funny!

Yep, that gal sure looks happy to be among the ever-increasing "anomalies" of this Brave New World.

Someone just might have to find a new word for it, eh?
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 26, 2017 - 09:07am PT
A simply outstanding achievement.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Sep 26, 2017 - 09:43am PT
Wow, that smile is a reward all in itself!

Thanks, Bruce, Mcreel, Clint, & MARGO!
kingtut

Social climber
carmel, ca
Sep 26, 2017 - 12:55pm PT
Both women and men have just scratched the surface....I do honestly believe women will succeed on the thinnest routes and regularly surpass the top men on specific routes (but not always) as routes get more and more "size specific" with all particular body size parameters being essential for success ie Lynn Hill was built for the Nose.

ie the Nose is likely harder than 14a...

Meltdown unrepeated etc.

But this brings up the eternal debate about hand/finger size, scrunchy v reachy etc.

This of course has nothing to do with my geriatric efforts. They are all harder than my flaccid self ever was or will be :D.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 26, 2017 - 06:44pm PT
Wow super impressive. I don't know what size has to do with it on a route like this. I am guessing small holds on steep limestone. If you can do it you can do it, if you can't you can't. I can see the issue on a crack a little more, but wrgaf, that is an impressive ascent that has been tried by hundreds of the best climbers in the world I am guessing.
KlimbIn

climber
Sandstonia
Sep 26, 2017 - 07:30pm PT
I am in awe at this young person's accomplishments, athleticism, passion for our sport and its place in the world: “The difficulties of this endeavor were overshadowed by the sound of the birds, laughter of friends, and the changing of the seasons".

Congratulations Margo on another fantastic send!
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Sep 26, 2017 - 07:31pm PT
Largo, it would be interesting to see if she could repeat Lynn Hill's ascent of the Nose all free, not to mention doing all the pitches on the North American Wall free. I suspect she could do the former, the latter would be something to see her tackle that one. I wonder if girls peak earlier than guys? They certainly do in gymnastics.
KlimbIn

climber
Sandstonia
Sep 26, 2017 - 07:33pm PT
Gleaned quickly from the web; Biographie ascents with athletes' height:

6'0" Chris Sharma July 2001
---- Sylvain Millet on May 24, 2004
5'9" Patxi Usobiaga on July 29, 2004
5'10" Dave Graham on July 30, 2007
5'10" Ethan Pringle on September 2, 2007
5'3" Ramón Julián Puigblanque on July 27, 2008
---- Enzo Oddo on August 15, 2010
5'5" Jonathan Siegrist on June 1, 2014
5'7" Alex Megos on July 11, 2014
6'1" Adam Ondra on July 22, 2014
5'8" Sachi Amma on August 7, 2014
5'7" Stefano Ghisolfi on June 22, 2015
5'7" Jon Cardwell on May 25, 2016
---- Sean Bailey on August 5, 2016
5'3" Margo Hayes on September 24, 2017

phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Sep 26, 2017 - 11:18pm PT
Yay is all I can say!
Stephen McCabe

Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
Sep 27, 2017 - 02:31am PT
Excellent!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Oct 3, 2017 - 02:39pm PT
Come see Margo at Planet Granite October 24 and Raise money for the ASCA! >> More details here
couchmaster

climber
Oct 3, 2017 - 03:33pm PT


Wow, her stoke is off the charts in Clints Photo above. Great shot.

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