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tradflasher
Trad climber
Truckee, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 17, 2017 - 08:21pm PT
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9-17-17
Went to climb the 3rd pillar of Dana and arrived to a 5 person group, rapping in.... There was a party at the base about to climb, and two more nearing the base to climb. The group of 5 still proceeded with the dangerous act of rapping in and leaving gear anchors at every station. Never have I seen this type of debauchery on an alpine route.
What does everyone else think??
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Sep 17, 2017 - 08:34pm PT
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Whoa, never heard of that
Part of the fun is doing 4th class sections on the down climb.
The other climbers must have called them on it
You're right, it's pretty ignorant
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 17, 2017 - 08:44pm PT
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Bad behavior but far from surprising.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 17, 2017 - 08:59pm PT
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I would be very pissed off if I was at the base climbing. Not sure how much I would say when it came time to the confrontation, but I hope I would convey these points:
1. We made a choice of how much risk to accept, how much risk of rockfall from above, based on knowing who was on the route ahead of us- and to mitigate that risk, we made the effort to get up earlier to be first.
2. When you come in from above, you not only disrespect the people below you and the effort they made to get there when they did, but you put us all in more danger from anything you dislodge.
3. A party of 5 is a clusterfvck that can be fun if you're all in the same group, but it is very irresponsible to subject fellow climbers to that. You make it unsafe for all involved at the moment of moving past each other.
With a relatively popular alpinish climb, this behavior is the climbing equivalent of drunk driving by an elementary school at the time when all the kids get out. Totally offensive and selfish.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 17, 2017 - 09:19pm PT
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I've heard of guides rapping in *left* of the main route.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 17, 2017 - 09:30pm PT
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Welcome to Chamonix . . .
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 17, 2017 - 09:35pm PT
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What does everyone else think??
I think you could have spoken to the guys rappeling about it and left this drama in the mountains.
Also, think it is a troll. :)
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Sep 17, 2017 - 09:52pm PT
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Sounds like they got there first if they are already on top and rapping down....
Second place is the first loser? Although it sounds like very poor style on their part...
I make a point to never climb underneath anyone, 98% of the time. Exceptions are if I know the party above and what the route is like.
General rule, if you show up to a line and someone is above you, go somewhere else. (2nd pillar of Dana?)
If you don't like it, get up earlier. Or climb somewhere else other than California. Or whine on the Internet.
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TLP
climber
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Sep 17, 2017 - 10:49pm PT
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Others have said the key things, I'll just add: Booty!
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Sep 17, 2017 - 11:22pm PT
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Kinda dangerous scenario.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 18, 2017 - 04:43am PT
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Incredibly, Weak ass. Shit!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sep 18, 2017 - 05:37am PT
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Party of 5 just blows ... going up or down.
Trade route and crowd dodging is always a pain. You need to show up either at 4 AM and be first or 4Pm long after everyone has left the ground.
But.... they were leaving dear... sounds like they left some compensation ?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Sep 18, 2017 - 06:48am PT
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Ho. Lee. Crap! These guys/gals are idiots far beyond reasoning. First of all, FIVE people in one party? Where would you even put them? Some of the belays are a little small. I guess just string everyone out along the entire face? And rapping in is just d#@&%ery unless there were some sort of established line away from the climbing, as Clint seemed to indicate. A party of five is for sieging a route in Josh, i.e. cragging in a mellow atmosphere--not clogging the crap out of a classic multi-pitch alpine route. I hope you just turned around and went somewhere else. Yeah, welcome to Chamonix and one reason I'll never climb there.
BAd
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Sep 18, 2017 - 07:28am PT
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STFU Skippy you could not lead a single pitch on that. Also If the party of 5 got there first, can do as they like. Rap in climb out is all good. Bad don't call people names look at yourself and all the needy crap you post, just for the attention you so desperately need each day.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sep 18, 2017 - 07:29am PT
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A plaque marking the start of the "Guides Rappel Route" would help stop such atrocious acts from happening ever again in the future.
Seriously bad scenario.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 18, 2017 - 08:06am PT
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Whoa...I certainly don't think that BAd's post deserves an ad hominem response like that. The Op's account mentions that there was already a party at the base so rapping in from above was totally inappropriate.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 18, 2017 - 08:29am PT
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I also abhor the idea of a rap route being reserved for guides.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sep 18, 2017 - 09:11am PT
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I abhor plaques and having parties above me. We were the first party of four or five in August of last year. I would have left if a party was rapping in above us.
Beautiful climb and day for us.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Sep 18, 2017 - 02:29pm PT
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All I know is I'd sure hate to guide a party of 5 newbies on that route if the weather turned sour (which it can and does quite often during the summer months). What a mess if someone was trying to climb up from the bottom and became entangled in a guided party of 5! What were they thinking or not thinking?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 18, 2017 - 04:18pm PT
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The OP didn't say it was a guided party, another poster said that guides had established a rap route to the LEFT of the climbing route.
Whenever I have worked as a guide I have tried to minimize interference with private parties. If I have trs established at IC and a private party arrives I offer them to take a ride on the trs or pull them if they want to lead.
Most guides are professionals and act in the same manner....AND any climber who has progressed to where they can climb a five pitch 5.10 is well aware that it is not kosher to rap in from above when there are people at the base. To do so cannot be excused by ignorance, it is the mark of a climbing as#@&%e.
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