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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Sep 12, 2017 - 04:05pm PT
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BITD we used the Stoney Point System: Easy or Hard.
Ours was a lot more sophisticated.
Five easy
Hard
Too damn hard
I coulda done it but it was getting late
And the two worst grades were Eldo ( or Seneca) 5.9+ and Stannard 5.10.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Sep 12, 2017 - 04:11pm PT
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The only way to objectively rate a climb is by having some three or four dimensional system, hardest move + exposure + sustained moves . . etc. The decimal system puts you in the ball park. Easy enough to find beta about climbs, plus it gives climbers something to flap their jaws about. Gill had the right idea.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Sep 12, 2017 - 04:12pm PT
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My three-level rating system for bouldering used to be adequate when there were relatively few serious boulderers. Then, as the bouldering population increased a lot of pluses and minuses began to appear. That did it. Time for the Verm. Jim Holloway, once the finest boulderer in the world, used a somewhat similar 3-level private system.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Sep 12, 2017 - 04:29pm PT
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My system makes up for some of the flaws pointed out. They include suffixes like "heady-la-roo", "spicy", "mindless" oppositely "jigery pokery", "WILD", "RAD" (WILD and RAD are not the same), "cruiser", "pump-o-rama", "vegemite", "18b/c". I actually can use some new suffixes if there are any folks who can add...
Cheers!
S.....
I guess they are more like descriptions
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TRo
climber
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Sep 12, 2017 - 04:33pm PT
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Back East it is/was pretty much 9+ that was the most feared grade--anywhere. Didn't Bridwell have a PDE, PDH, DFU system?
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Sep 12, 2017 - 06:23pm PT
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Rating systems are easy to criticize given the variety in climbing and the strengths and weaknesses that climbers exhibit. For me, it is quite remarkable that given all this variability, there is considerable consensus in climbing ratings.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Sep 12, 2017 - 06:44pm PT
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I like the British ratings though I don't understand any of it. I'm hardly very serious.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Sep 12, 2017 - 06:47pm PT
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Just give it a 10 and head on down the road and always floss after eating.
If there's anyone who knows, is there anyone who cares.
-Hollis Brown
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 12, 2017 - 06:56pm PT
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It's all intellectual bullsh#t. There have only ever been two grades, and there are still only two grades: Either you can get up it, or you can't.
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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Sep 12, 2017 - 07:06pm PT
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Nah, there's also I haven't gotten up it yet. For growth learners.
Maybe the flaw was thinking we'd never learn to outgrow the Yosemite Decimal System?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 12, 2017 - 07:07pm PT
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Zbrown...regarding your grading system going to 10. In that particular category only the binary scale matters....0 or 1, you would or you wouldn't. Of course the binary scale applies to both sexes.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Sep 12, 2017 - 10:35pm PT
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The grading system I heard bitd is one I still find just granular enough:
Hard, really hard, and I can't do it.
There are no easy climbs. If it's easy enough to be below the grade-scale, it's a hike not a climb.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Sep 12, 2017 - 11:03pm PT
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I remember arguing with Tony Yaniro about the fact that he thought it was 14, but he rated it 13.d.
"Come on Tony, you did the first 13, and you called it 13!"
"Yeah, but that was c."
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 13, 2017 - 02:01am PT
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For me, the rating is just a way to get in the right ball-park for a type of experience I'm seeking.
I have never felt the YDS is insufficient, and whenever I am worried and seeking more beta, that is when I look to stuff like per-pitch or per-section ratings, descriptors ("sustained","scary","sandy","loose") knowledge of the FA party, etc.
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Sep 13, 2017 - 03:25am PT
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Whipper, whistler, screamer, crater. Ropeless, free, bolted, boulder.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sep 13, 2017 - 05:18am PT
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The overly modest YDS went off with a, b, c, and d grades. A 5.10b should rate at 5.11, 5.11a should be 5.14, the first 5.16a would be 5.34 and so on.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Sep 13, 2017 - 06:03am PT
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a = "almost"
b = "barely"
c = "certainly"
d = "definitely"
BITD 5.9+ was the most suspect rating there was.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Sep 13, 2017 - 06:07am PT
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In 1968 the YDS seemed natural and dependable at the Gunks, where I could definitely notice the difference between 5.2 and 5.3. There were a few question marks but on average it worked well. Funny thing was, when I made it to Yosemite in the 70s the YDS was all wrong and there was no 5.2.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Sep 13, 2017 - 06:56am PT
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The YDS has always seemed fine to me. Simple enough not to give you a headache that might keep you from climbing, and imprecise enough to keep the spirit of adventure kicking, or at least squirming around a bit.
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