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| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2017 - 04:17pm PT
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Wow, thanks!!
Looks like I need to become a more loyal ebay fan!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jul 24, 2017 - 04:21pm PT
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Edelweiss Energy 9.5 Bi Pattern. The bi pattern is referred to as ARC? or something like that.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 24, 2017 - 04:26pm PT
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Be aware that if you run pitches together past a certain point - and you're second is starting off on the ground or a ledge - that for some initial distance they can fall and be hurt by rope stretch alone. Happened to an otherwise uber competent and solid climber I know who broke their ankle / foot when they slipped and fell about 25 feet to the starting ledge of a pitch while seconding on a skinny 70m that had been runout near full length across a couple of pitches.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jul 24, 2017 - 09:28pm PT
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The dynamic elongation of a 60 aint much less than an 80
guarantee he wants it for the hulk raps more than anything else
that being said you can do the first 520 feet of the polish route perfectly in 2 pitches... definitely need a tight belay on your follower for something like that
btw footloose I use a bluewater 9.4 80M- it has held up fantastically
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Jul 24, 2017 - 10:00pm PT
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recommebd beal 7.7-eddy combi, just not make flling
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 25, 2017 - 08:33am PT
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http://sterlingrope.com/store/climb/ropes/dynamic/fusion-series/fusion-ion-r
Looks like the price for such a rope is in the $300+ category, I like Stirling Fusion ropes, the blue, green colors seem to stand up for a long time.
Rope stretch for an 80m is an issue for the second, but you can also pre-tension if you are concerned.
I prefer an 80m in Yosemite because of the large number of old routes that were put up with (effectively) 40m ropes, so combining pitches, and also rappelling routes, with a single rope makes things go much faster (if you're willing to run it out a bit).
Two rope systems are also a possibility.
Do you know someone with a pro-deal with one of the rope companies?
"Friends don't let friends pay full price"
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Matt's
climber
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Jul 25, 2017 - 09:00am PT
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if you want to save money, don't buy a bi-pattern... its a lot of money for a glorified middle mark that will become inaccurate the moment you have to shorten the rope.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jul 25, 2017 - 09:19am PT
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Gear express has an edelweiss 9.8 x 80 meter for 256$
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jul 25, 2017 - 10:27am PT
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just google shop and you will find something for around $210. i agree the bipattern is not necessary
just my anecdote, but my 80m sterling nano fell apart after three hulk trips with one big fall. same thing happened to a friends. ive been much happier with the durability of the mammut and bluewater ropes
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 25, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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Mammut Duodess
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| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
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