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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 12, 2017 - 07:40pm PT
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I believe it was Urmas from Mammoth, I think. I met him a few years ago when he and Peter, I believe, put up Divine Intervention 5.8 8P? on Cheribum Dome in the Sequoia backcountry/ Hamilton Lakes basin.
He showed me a topo, I took a pic but lost it or can't find it? Any body have a topo for Divine Intervention on Cheribum Dome? Or Urmas, pm me please.
Chad from Bearpaw. We spoke briefly about your route.
Edit, found Urmas. Sent you a pm.
Another edit, looks like it was Jeremy, not Peter on that FA. Sorry Jeremy. Nice work you two!
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ec
climber
ca
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Jul 19, 2017 - 05:49pm PT
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Just 'Send' a new one! There's plenty of stone out there! If you go there, have a great time. It's a beautiful place.
ec
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 19, 2017 - 07:57pm PT
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Dark Angels have More Fun is also a 5.7 to 5.8 if you go an easier way for the last pitch that joins the ridge. Very easy to bypass the 5.9 pitch on that route. Very friendly chill route. Already had a 2nd ascent. No fixed protection on it.
Can you post a photo of the topo for divine interventions? I'd love to see where it goes and maybe climb it with Archangel one day. Cherubim has amazing rock.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jul 20, 2017 - 12:09am PT
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2017 - 01:45am PT
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Did Dark Angels couple months ago, it was a fine route. Such a nice dome, well featured.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Aug 10, 2017 - 06:58am PT
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Aug 10, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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I missed this first time around. Send, my address has changed and I didn't receive your pm - sorry! I will post up a topo and picture of Divine Intervention (IV 5.8) when I have more time tomorrow. The rock is excellent and very climbable.
While I agree with Ec's advice, I would kindly ask that no bolts be placed near established lines.
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2017 - 12:32pm PT
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Much appreciated Urmas. Much respect on the bolting ethics as well.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Aug 10, 2017 - 01:19pm PT
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What is "near" established lines? Remember, it's no one persons stone out there. If a line goes up with fixed pro, will this start problems?
V, didn't you have a harder line that needed bolts?
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Aug 10, 2017 - 07:13pm PT
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First ascentionists should have a sense of proportion when it comes to determining a proper distance from neighboring routes. A squeeze job on a steep sport cliff can be defined as "close enough for bolts to be clipped from the neighboring route". On a low angle face, that can be climbed almost anywhere, on the other hand, there needs to be more space between routes. If your route climbs a significantly different line than an established route, it's probably fine. If it becomes confusing to someone repeating the route, which route they are on, it's probably a squeeze job. There is a proportion of horizontal spacing relative to vertical spacing with regard to bolting, that seems applicable. The longer the vertical spacing, the wider the horizontal. As Divine Intervention has no bolts, I would hope the next route over would be a moderate distance away. At its closest point, DI approaches a belay on What Dreams May Come by about 40', and then moves away.
My hope is that prospective first ascentionists who don't have a clear sense of appropriate spacing of routes relative to each other, spend more time climbing established routes until they do. One should have a vision of the cliff as a whole, and put in routes that enhance rather than detract from the overall quality. More is not always better.
Pictures and topo will be posted tomorrow.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Aug 11, 2017 - 02:57pm PT
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Aug 11, 2017 - 03:03pm PT
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 19, 2018 - 04:54pm PT
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Damn! Nice line Urmas! Glad I saw this (very late...but better than never).
Would it have normal belays if done with a 60M rope and no simul climbing. Brian and I simul climbed pitches on What dreams may come, but we skipped spots where one could belay gine. Its just a BIG face with a lot of moderate terrain and makes sense to simul to speed the climb up. Rock pretty much anywhere on it looks superb. Also would highly recommend the back side of Hamilton Dome for superb rock and cool features that allow natural passage without bolting, or with very little bolting. In 2017, my friend Chaz and I did a few cool moderates on the South Face of Hamilton and a formation just West of it that were of very high quality and needed no bolts. A lot of uncut crimps, knobs, cracks, you name it. This was a burly weekend - day 1) drive to the trailhead/approach and a new route on the first dome, day 2) FA on the Hamilton Dome and a hike out back to bearpaw/drive home. Great view of the Valkyrie from up there, one of the most bad ass lines in the Sierra. Just look at that position! (It does have a lot of bolts so hopefully that does not offend anyone too much)
V, didn't you have a harder line that needed bolts?
Yes. Climbed one route that needed no bolts - Dark Angels Have more fun - and one that required 7 - What Dreams May Come. WDMC went pretty much up the middle of the white groove and traversed left into the middle of the headwall corner system. I think 3 bolts are for belays, and 4 for leading, with 3 of those placed mostly because we thought it would be f*#ked up for anyone else trying to climb the route to not have any pro for a long section, or to belay from a single bolt. It is still very run out, but mostly on manageable terrain with some intermediate pro. Very good rock and fun climbing. The whole Valhalla is a special place. If anyone wanted to add a few bolts to the routes we did, I personally would not be bothered, as long as the people say how many and where.
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2018 - 09:32pm PT
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Yeah V, Subliminal Verses looks great. High on my list to do this summer. Was fortunate enough to climb Periscope Dome and Eagle Scout Creek Dome late last summer, via the shorter routes in Secor’s book. Incredible summits with amazing views. I think Eagle Scout Creek Dome has one of the best views in the Sierra. Half of it is the massive Kaweah River drainage, tons of forest. The other half, big peaks right in your face. Angel Wings looks crazy from there. And those massive holes/caves in the south face of Hamilton Dome are so unique. Tiny little meadows and plants in there. Did you ever get inside one of those? My buddy and I are planning a bivy/jam session in one of those holes. I think the best approach is from Hamilton Lake dropping into Eagle Scout Lake. The way from the river looks long with some bushwhacking.
Will I be seeing you out there this summer?
Chad-Bpaw
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Mar 20, 2018 - 07:14am PT
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Best photo on Supertopo in a long time. So much stoke if you just gaze upon all the lines and summits therein. Thanks V!
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Mar 20, 2018 - 08:33am PT
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Vitaliy, For Divine Intervention I would recommend 1 each camalots 4-6. These will allow for a belay using some amazing solution pockets. On the FA I couldn't belay at the holes, and had to climb higher above a headwall, while my partner had to climb the crux of the route, while simuling. I would still bring a 70m though.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Mar 20, 2018 - 08:47am PT
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I put up a 2 pitch route with SP Parker on the short buttress to the right of the toe of Sabre Ridge. Lot of rock there!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 20, 2018 - 03:12pm PT
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Urmas in general must be up there for number of long first ascents in the High Sierra, Yosemite and the East Side! This or any climbing forum would be so much better if people like him, Claude Fiddler, Cleavenger, Harrington, Thau, Nettle etc posted more photos of routes they climbed and talked about them more. There is so much cool rock in the Sierra and CA in general. That place up north by Shasta, is it Castle Crags? Those spires look top notch and have some amazing routes in it. Crags south of Lone Pine, whole Wheeler Crest area, west side...god. the Shuteye has a lifetime of rock.
It is interesting about those pockets on Cherubim. There are some good ones like that on Hamilton Dome too, although I'd say Cherubim has different rock.
Send/Chad, we should go climb sometime, send me a text with your number. My old phone was in a car that got stolen a year ago so I lost all the #s. Hope to make it back to Bearpaw in 2018. But may need a knee surgery at some point, so will see...getting old, fat and frail :(
Agreed on The summit of Eagle Scout Creek dome having one of the best views. All of those Dome's have some of the best views, it is stunning to see the Angels Wings, Cherubim, Saber, Prism, Stewart, Kaweahs, Lipincott, the Fin, other spires to the South and a sun setting in the West. Many amazing places in the range, but this is one of the special ones, with lack of traffic and all. And I don't think it will ever be too busy.
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2018 - 04:28pm PT
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noun
plural noun: cherubim
a winged angelic being described in biblical tradition as attending on God. It is represented in ancient Middle Eastern art as a lion or bull with eagles' wings and a human face, and regarded in traditional Christian angelology as an angel of the second highest order of the ninefold celestial hierarchy.
Edit: Have to apologize for the misspelling in the thread title. Oh well, maybe it’ll keep the crowds away. That and the 15 mile approach.
Urmas, would you care to share anything about the 2P route on the small buttress next to Saber? Interested....
V, pm sent.
Glad to see this thread getting some legs.
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