Forearm tendonitis

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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 27, 2017 - 01:59pm PT
So earlier this year I started following my 13 yr. to the gym and was bouldering more consistently. Once I started getting reasonably fit climbing indoors (V5 and V6s) the top of my forearms started getting sore. Not tennis or golfer's elbow (though I've had the latter). The flexor muscle on top of your forearm, both arms. I've taken some time off and they're feeling better, but I still feel twangs doing things non-climbing related. I'm doing some self therapy: using a small dumbbell to do wrist curls and rotational exercises with a hammer. Occasionally massaging the area, though I'm not sure whether that helps or inflames it. Stretching definitely seems to do the latter. Anyone dealt with this and, if so, what helped?
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Jun 27, 2017 - 02:28pm PT
After being super serious about climbing for about six years, I got a horrible case of tendinitis in both forearm flexors that was so painful it felt like the muscle was ripping off the bone every time I'd do a chin up. And, it lasted a number of years without relief despite trying all kinds of things.

A month after training the finger extensors with heavy rubber bands all the pain was gone and it hasn't come back.

Buy broccoli. Keep the rubber band. Insert thumb and fingers into center of band. Open hand exercising fingers and thumb extensors. Repeat.

Magic.

G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
Jun 27, 2017 - 03:49pm PT
SomebodyAnybody has it about right
you can articulate the wrist more, engaging the extensors
I fight this all the time if I climb indoors much. It is probably the most painful body issue I face except for when the back goes out.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Jun 27, 2017 - 07:58pm PT
Take a LONG break thats it.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jun 27, 2017 - 11:50pm PT
hey there say, ... lots of good advice here... :)

rest, too, though, is a healthy need, and will make a difference, more long term... along with the stretches, etc...

best wishes...
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jun 28, 2017 - 06:24am PT
I am a fan of the forearm massage tools like Armaid.

https://www.armaid.com/store/products/44/armaid

This one has helped me.

BAd
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Jun 28, 2017 - 08:33am PT
it also could be the anconeus muscle that articulates transpositions between radial and medial forearm at the elbow.

Add twists to the therapy work (doorknob open and close with light weight, maybe asymmetric)
Friend

climber
Jun 28, 2017 - 03:32pm PT
Bump
Sorry to hear it Fat Dad.
I've had issues with medial epicondylitis for years but reverse curls and pronation/supination exercises seem to keep it at bay.
I wish I had some pertinent advice for you. Some good info here already and I will be checking back on this thread to see what others have to add.
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
Jun 28, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
Face it Dood....you're old. Embrace it! ;)

Jan is right....we all face it as we age. The tendons and muscles don't rebound like they use to. Ease off a bit. Nothing to worry about.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Jun 28, 2017 - 03:59pm PT
Nobody seems willing to suggest the for-sure cure-all step. You weenies just can't accept what must be done....

Amputation

Or, you can just wait for the inevitable....

Yer gonna die

The above step emphatically eliminates the problem.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Jun 28, 2017 - 04:38pm PT
Snowhazed, Good call o the anconeus. It could also be the pornator teres which is quite common.

The rotation exercises work like a charm. An easy way to be progressive about the rehab is use an 8lb sledge hammer and choke up as much as you need to do full internal and external rotation of the forearm. You can work your way out as you get stronger.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2017 - 12:39pm PT
Thanks much for the replies (most of them at least...). I have added rotational exercises into the mix but mostly rest. Just hard to do over the summer. My daughter is asking that I take her bouldering at the Tram. Was hoping to hit the Needles, etc. Rest seems to work best though. And yes, getting old sucks.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jun 30, 2017 - 01:49pm PT
Eat more spinach.Good luck with coming back better'n ever!
Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
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