Third Pillar of Dana first weekend of July

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
riemannzetagambit

Trad climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 26, 2017 - 10:04pm PT
Howdy there ST folk--

Well my Tuolumne permits for the upcoming weekend are all but borked as my intense watching of the Tioga Pass Opening Thread and NPS's own Tioga Rd status page have yielded only disappointment for a timely open. My climbing partner and I are pivoting to something on the east side-- perhaps the Third Pillar of Dana.

We've never been but we do know
1. There's going to be a s*#t ton of snow on the approach.
2. ???

I am guessing the actual climb is free of snow these days 'cause of all that June heat, but anyone know what we might expect on the approach? Will Glacier Creek be fordable? Will the descent gully to the toe of the Pillar be too dangerous?

Appreciate any input, or views from the east side of the Pillar itself. Thanks in advance!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 26, 2017 - 10:32pm PT

missjr

Trad climber
Jun 27, 2017 - 09:14am PT
Our roommate climbed this about a month ago.....it was fine. They rapped in to avoid the snow down climbing. Probably more has melted by now but not entirely.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jun 27, 2017 - 09:43am PT
Ed, nice photatoes, sir.
riemannzetagambit

Trad climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2017 - 10:45am PT
Thanks, missjr.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jun 27, 2017 - 11:17am PT
Interesting, missjr, How does that rap in work? Just right off the top, leaving gear? BTW, I am NOT advocating any kind of bolted rap line--just curious what your friend did in case I want to try something similar.

BAd
missjr

Trad climber
Jun 28, 2017 - 08:06am PT
Bad,

They left anchors in place on their rap down the route. Then they cleaned as they climbed out.
Old5Ten

Trad climber
Berkeley and Sunny Slopes, CA
Jun 29, 2017 - 08:22am PT
i've been up in that area (but not 3rd pillar approach specifically) a few times the last 10 days. there's a ton of snow in the descent gully on the approach (see cropped section of crappy iphone pic taken yesterday). the backside (west) has some patches of snow. i imagine that the non-snow part may be pretty soggy in some places.

that rapping in idea sounds pretty good if you've got a decent rack and know where you're going (ie have done the route before).

if you do the eastern gully descent, an ice axe (and possibly crampons) might be worthwhile.


tioga pass is supposed to open for motor vehicles today...
riemannzetagambit

Trad climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2017 - 05:05pm PT
Thanks for the beta, Old5Ten.
DonC

climber
CA
Jul 1, 2017 - 08:19am PT
from last weekend


HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jul 1, 2017 - 06:57pm PT
I drove past it yesterday from the East.
Sorry I didn't take a pic.
There's still a lot of snow up there. Consider taking ice axes, and possibly crampons for the east couloir. It will almost certainly be icy when you start the descent.
At least get a good view of it from the east before committing to the approach.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jul 2, 2017 - 07:27am PT

What's the supreme courts' justice's line?

I know it when I see it!












Porn
Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta