Updating Big Wall articles - Need corrections and feedback

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 7, 2017 - 11:15am PT
I'm going through and updating articles to make sure the links work and the gear recommendations are current. If anyone wants to click around, make suggestions, report errors, i would greatly appreciate it!!

Thank you

>> Basic Big Wall Gear Article

>> 10 Tips To Make Big Wall Climbing More Fun

>> Yosemite Big Wall Climbing Rack and Gear List
Smokey

Trad climber
Colorado
Jun 7, 2017 - 11:23am PT
La Sportiva Gandas are no longer available.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2017 - 12:05pm PT
Gracias
nathanael

climber
CA
Jun 7, 2017 - 12:07pm PT
Thanks for all these articles Chris, I read them and then I climbed the Nose a couple weeks ago (my first big wall). I just skimmed through them checking for anything obviously missing.


http://www.supertopo.com/a/How-To-Big-Wall-Climb-Gear-1-Essential-Aid-Climbing-Gear/a10535n.html - Black Diamond ascenders are now called the index

http://www.supertopo.com/a/How-To-Big-Wall-Climb-Leading-1-Low%20Angle-Terrain/a10536n.html - broken link to headlamp review

http://www.supertopo.com/a/How-To-Big-Wall-Climbg-Gear-2-Clean-Aid-Protection/a10567n.html - broken picture of cams, some outdated cam advice

http://www.supertopo.com/a/How-to-Big-Wall-Climb-Building-Big-Wall-Anchors/a10572n.html - when I don't use a cordellete section unfinished

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/bigwalls.html#aidrack - old rack (metolius)

http://www.supertopo.com/a/How-to-Big-Wall-Climb-Leading-4-Traversing-Terrain/a10573n.html - "to be continued"

http://www.supertopo.com/a/How-to-Big-Wall-Climb-Retreat-Bailing-and-Fear-Management/a10577n.html - "to be continued"

http://www.supertopo.com/a/How-to-Big-Wall-Climb-Wall-Strategy-Crowds-Passing-Teams-of-Three-and-More/a10578n.html - broken link to headlamp review
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2017 - 12:57pm PT
nathanael, thank you. And congrats on The Nose!
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
Jun 7, 2017 - 03:49pm PT
Isn't a pair of shoes and a chalk bag all that is needed to climb El Cap now?
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jun 8, 2017 - 10:24pm PT
hey there say... bump for chris...
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Jun 8, 2017 - 11:33pm PT
Totems
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
Any other feedback or corrections?
pitu

Trad climber
barcelona, spain
Jun 9, 2017 - 05:57pm PT
Hello, Chris.
I also think that Totem cams are the best cams for climbing in Yosemite. They work better for pin scars than any other cam. They also perform way better in flared cracks, which are very common in the valley.
BrandonAdams

Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
Jun 12, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
X4s as preferred small cam? For walling?
They don't handle the abuse of aid.

And totems, definitely totems.
Matt's

climber
Jun 12, 2017 - 06:34pm PT
not mentioning totems is glossing over the biggest improvement in cams since the alien design...
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Jun 13, 2017 - 02:41pm PT
CMac, do you get a kick back from BD?? While Totems aren't the be all end all in cams they certainly are the best in tricky aid situations. You never put them on the recommended list for yer wall rack. What gives?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2017 - 01:32pm PT
No kickback from BD or any other manufacturer. I still stand by what I like and recommend. Here is our Totem Cam Review.
dindolino32

climber
san francisco
Jun 29, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
+1 for Totems, nothing compares in my opinion.
Schorry

Trad climber
Munich, Germany
May 27, 2018 - 03:26am PT
Hi Chris,

not a suggestion, but a question: Is there a rough idea when the 2nd edition of the "How To Big Wall Climb" is supposed to be published? Looks to me as there're regular updates to the online content and I'm wondering if that material will find it's way to a book (printed and/or as ebook) or if the updated material is online only for the time being.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers
Stefan
Zay

climber
Monterey, Ca
May 27, 2018 - 11:58am PT
Hi Chris, There are a few typos on the topo for triple direct in the most recent edition of the big wall book. Mostly the locations of camp 4 and 5, And a few of the pitch numbers are a bit wibbly wobbly.

However still indispensable and thank you so much for "how to big wall climb", If you want to read about my experience it's the most recent trip report for triple direct. your material has been paramount in getting me into bigwalls!
HeschMonster

Trad climber
Morro Bay
May 28, 2018 - 06:27pm PT
I'll throw a +4 for the totem comments...I've even been reaching for my totem basic offsets before the metolius offsets (x4 sizes) lately. but would def carry a double rack of totems before anything else. Absolutely zero walking, plug and chug baby.
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta