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hamersorethumb
Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 18, 2017 - 10:18am PT
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YouTube video demonstrating a two bolt anchor using a sewn sling and a clove hitch. I've never seen this method before.
Also a bow tie.
https://youtu.be/1UyInC0SkGo
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 18, 2017 - 10:46am PT
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Nothing new and it's been used according to time and circumstance when needed.
There's a myriad of ways to do anchors. There's no one set way does all in every situation.
There's minor pros and cons to everything.
One thing I noticed immediately in one of his demonstrations, the clove hitch knot was down low from the bolt anchors against the sharp rock.
That's potential for something that could happen.
I wouldn't want my knot near there ......
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Apr 18, 2017 - 10:47am PT
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Anyone have a link to how much a clove holds in dyneema? My guess is it is likely only mental redundancy and slips at modest fall level loads if a strand is cut.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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Apr 18, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
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Why is that idiot wearing a bow tie ?
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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Apr 18, 2017 - 12:54pm PT
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^bowtie and beard = hipster d#@&%ebag. Why is he wearing a helmet?
Building anchor on chains and rap ring= no bueno.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Apr 18, 2017 - 01:57pm PT
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What's wrong with a simple sliding X?
Since I can never remember when it's OK and not OK to use dyneema, I just stick with nylon.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Apr 18, 2017 - 03:46pm PT
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Sliding X has large extension if a piece blows, and has no redundancy against getting cut. So it fails the R and NE parts of SRENE. Practically speaking I don't mind a partner using a sliding X on bolts.
Sliding X with cloves at the bolts gets you the R.
As a blanket statement, the whole SRENE thing is an oxymoron. You can never have Equalization with No Extension.
Anchors fads come and go. Dealing with a 2 bolt anchor in ways that take more than a minute is a fail.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 18, 2017 - 04:11pm PT
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he is equalizing an anchor that will never fail.
I doubt that.
He's just using those two bolts to demonstrate his clove hitch method.
He has another video where uses actual gear and slings in his demonstration.
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 18, 2017 - 04:28pm PT
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Tie a figure eight on a bight in your end of the rope, pull the loop over the top so you get a guide knot with two loops. Equalize, tighten, clip bolts with lockers. Done. Go fast. Can add directional (downward) figure eight on climber end to belay off the anchor if so desired. This makes self rescue or hauling your partner easy.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 18, 2017 - 05:41pm PT
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I wasn't referring to the bolt anchors as needed to be equalized.
He was just using those bolts to hang his sling for demonstration.
Of course, he didn't need to equalize those two bomber bolts.
But those are the two bolts he had access too right there on the ground for his demonstration.
He could have even used two chopsticks for the anchor for his demonstration.
Understand now?
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David C
Trad climber
UK
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Apr 19, 2017 - 03:10am PT
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I used to use a clove for a long time, and it was recommended in Petzl's pdf on multi pitch climbing. However it has one serious issue. If the shelf is used and the locker through the clove removed, whoever is hanging on the shelf may well die. Whether the shelf collapses depends on just how the clove was tied, but is in essence random. Now, you might be thinking, just don't remove the locker, but as many accidents come about from the unexpected, "oh, I'll just take that", or systems others might not know the rules of, I'd stay clear of it.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Apr 19, 2017 - 05:51am PT
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What Tami and WB said.
I thought the vid showed a simple and clear demonstration of what he intended to show.
I'm just wondering what bomber anchors and a chain is for 3.5 ft off the ground:-)
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 19, 2017 - 06:17am PT
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Cool videos. I've never used this technique, but I will now. I love it. Thanks!
BAd
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 19, 2017 - 06:45am PT
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Part 2 is pretty interesting. Before this, I really didn't realize that the clove hitch fits where an overhand (or figure 8) won't fit. I liked both videos, so thanks for posting up!
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David C
Trad climber
UK
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Apr 19, 2017 - 03:47pm PT
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If you do, just remember to never use the shelf, and re the second vid, if you think anything is marginal, tie in with the rope, not a sling.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Apr 19, 2017 - 04:06pm PT
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I used to use a clove for a long time, and it was recommended in Petzl's pdf on multi pitch climbing. However it has one serious issue. If the shelf is used and the locker through the clove removed, whoever is hanging on the shelf may well die. Whether the shelf collapses depends on just how the clove was tied, but is in essence random. Now, you might be thinking, just don't remove the locker, but as many accidents come about from the unexpected, "oh, I'll just take that", or systems others might not know the rules of, I'd stay clear of it.
Alternate approach: don't use the shelf for anything. [Edit: just posted by David] If you need the kind of independent anchor point you get from the shelf, clove hitch a second carabiner right next to the first.
Personally, I use a cordelette so infrequently that having a "shelf" never seemed important even when I was using a cordelette.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Apr 19, 2017 - 05:12pm PT
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What's a shelf?
Re the second video, I never thought of using a clove hitch as the master point knot and have had the problem of not having enough slack for an overhand or figure 8 about 10 million times. Pretty cool solution!
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Apr 20, 2017 - 12:34am PT
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As David Coley says, itīs been on Petzlīs website for years.
[photoid=496839]
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