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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 17, 2017 - 05:45pm PT
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Hey, STers.
My wife, Liz and I, spent the morning up at Mt. Lemmon outside of Tucson (for any who may not know where that is).
We're here just for a few days of respite from a looooooooong Seattle winter, in which there must have been at least 5-7 minutes without rain.
It's been great to actually feel warm sun on the face. And I've known of Mt. Lemmon for years, but have never climbed here (didn't bring my gear this time, out of compassion for my wife).
For those in the know, what are your go-to areas for cragging here, and can you post some pics? I'm dying to get back down here with my gear and some friends, and would love some time-saving suggestions about where to hit.
What an incredibly beautiful area!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 17, 2017 - 06:17pm PT
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Lots of great routes on the Lemmon. Chimney Rock in Bear Canyon has a great concentration of 5.10 routes. The Pharaoh shown in your second photo has a classic spicy 9+/10- route up the center of the side facing the road, Cripple Creek. Bring a full selection of nuts including some RPs if you can for the traditional routes. Cams only won't make you very happy.
Lots of Lemmon shots on the AZ Appreciation thread.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/734974/Arizona-Climbing-Appreciation-thread
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Apr 17, 2017 - 10:04pm PT
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Lots of great climbing, but it's been awhile.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Apr 17, 2017 - 10:16pm PT
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+1 for Chimney Rock. At Windy Point a few of my faves are Mean Mistreater, Nang, Lizard Marmalade Direct and Birthday Girl. Also Arizona Flyways! So many more...
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Byran
climber
Half Dome Village
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Apr 17, 2017 - 11:56pm PT
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I just have this photo of Hitchcock Pinnacle (same formation F10 already posted)
I spent a summer living in Tuscon and thought Mt Lemmon was kind of worthless. Checked out probably 7 or 8 different walls and they were all pretty lame. It took a really long time to drive up there too since I lived on the west side of town. Lots of small little cliffs with super short routes. The rock looks really featured from below, but then when you get up there all the holds turn out to be sloping and facing the wrong way. Everything looks 5.8 from the ground, but will be 5.10 weird steep slab in reality. I liked it even less than Holcomb Valley Pinnacles (in SoCal), and I think Holcomb is like a one-star locals area. If it's not terribly hot in Cochise Stronghold, that place has some quality stuff.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 18, 2017 - 12:31am PT
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worthless
nailed it.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Apr 18, 2017 - 08:07am PT
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**worthless
nailed it.**
Seriously? I missed Lemmon this winter and spent the time in Cochise but I've heard Lemmon is so good? You messing Jefe?
Arne
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Apr 18, 2017 - 08:15am PT
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Another great area with a good concentration of routes is the Wall of the Trundling Trolls. Valhalla is a must do!
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drF
Trad climber
usa
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Apr 18, 2017 - 08:15am PT
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I spent a summer living in Tuscon and thought Mt Lemmon was kind of worthless.
I can't tell if Bryan is jesting?
Maybe he missed the 400-600ft crags at the 9000ft elevation mark. Beautiful, textured, varied types of granite?
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Apr 18, 2017 - 08:48am PT
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Yeah I know but he doesn't sound like he's joking. He must know of some good shit!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 18, 2017 - 09:02am PT
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Can't knock someone for not liking the climbing.
But during summer in Tucson, Mt Lemmon is truly a savior.
I'll hold back on fiercely defending my local mountain but Tom Patterson- hit me up next time and we'll get you sorted, and hopefully you'll leave with a better impression than Bryan.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Apr 18, 2017 - 09:07am PT
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That looks like worthless sh#t to me. Love it!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Apr 18, 2017 - 09:19am PT
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Lots of small little cliffs with super short routes.
This surprises me. Not my experience as a very occasional visitor.
In the dead of summer, the Summit Crags have gorgeous temps. The Fortress has three pitch sport routes. Raven has lots of beautiful long routes.
Mid mountain, Munchkinland, with a nice flat base and nice long routes, is often good in the summer because of all the great pine trees.
Holcomb Valley Pinnacles is now my local summer crag and it's a great resource to have when it's 105 degrees at my house, but like you say, it's a locals only non-destination crag. However, I would travel from anywhere to climb on Lemmon.
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Apr 18, 2017 - 10:45am PT
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We visited Mt Lemmon for a couple of days, itīs kinda dissapointing. Lots of cool looking rock features but nothing really wow that we saw or climbed.
Climbed on this one day and didnīt bother to go back, spent the next day at one of the most forgettable sport crags Iīve ever been to. Went to Cochise instead.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 18, 2017 - 11:30am PT
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dissapointing
This diss is on point!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Apr 18, 2017 - 12:47pm PT
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Whoa! Some harsh critics and hard to please. Either that or this is some sort of elaborate ploy by the locals like Jefe to keep the best secret to themselves. Or it could be just worthless choss. I'll have to come back this fall and stay longer to decide for myself.
Meanwhile, Montana choss is coming into it's own season.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 18, 2017 - 01:34pm PT
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The higher elevation crags like Rappel Rock and the Reef of Rock are the best climbing on Mt Lemon IMO and if you don't mind walking a bit there are several backcountry Grade IV outings elsewhere in the Santa Catalinas that are far from crowds and quite satisfying. Otherwise follow the stars in the guidebook and have fun...or not. Climbing on gneiss rock isn't everyone's cup of tea. My best routes are in the Stronghold. Climbing on the hill keeps you fit for wagering it all on Cochise.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Apr 18, 2017 - 01:50pm PT
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Meanwhile, Montana choss is coming into it's own season.
...and you know how the 'outsiders' think of it..?....
B'Root choss is it's own kind of goodness and even though the choss can compel, 'round here it seems to repel; I don't mind it one bit.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Apr 18, 2017 - 01:56pm PT
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Mt. Lemmon is a huge area and there are of course some short lame climbs and forgettable piles strewn about. That said, I think you'd have to make a concerted effort to avoid some pretty good rock climbing.
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2017 - 04:37am PT
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Thanks for chiming in, all. Looks like opinions run hot, cold, and ambivalent on Mt. Lemmon.
Thanks for the offer, drljefe!
Not sure I'd take a trip to Tucson specifically for Mt. Lemmon, but I am interested in getting on some of the plums, when there!
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