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Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 28, 2017 - 10:35am PT
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Hi all, I am looking to finally get on this puppy. I am wondering about this year's heavier than usual snowfall. Is it a factor? Either in regards to the climb itself or in regards to the descent? I am currently researching, thanks for any help you can offer.
Would April be an okay time to climb NEB? Or should we wait because of snow or whatever. Thanks!
It appears April is doable at least in some years-
https://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/ShowObjectStats.php?id=105862896
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 28, 2017 - 01:02pm PT
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Having done the route a number of times i can tell you that the descent is totally non technical and does not involve a steep gully like the SS and should be negotiable even with some snow. I also imagine that a steep route like the NEB would clean up with a few days of continuous sunshine.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2017 - 02:43pm PT
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Donini, thanks! Just what I wanted to read. :)
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 28, 2017 - 03:31pm PT
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I've been up and down the cathedral gully a few times when it is partially or fully covered in snow, and it is no big deal (but still requires usual attention to not slip on snow-covered talus). Last moves exiting NEB HCR could be awkward/tricky with deep snow, but that area gets good sunlight and would melt out relatively fast. You will get a perfect idea of descent conditions just by approaching the climb. The descent is a longer version of the same.
Coming down gunsight with snow/ice can be more tricky.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Mar 28, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
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The easiest way to get a glimpse of a climb's latest condition is by looking at the tick list of the climb on Mountain Project. The chance of having something there is better with more popular climbs such as NEB of HCR, and the information on the tick list is usually from people who have actually just climbed it even though there are some retro-tickers there as well. Good luck!
Edit: if you don't see recent ticks, it doesn't mean nobody climbed it, but it could mean the climber(s) didn't survive to tick off the climb.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
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Mei, thanks for the additional info.
Nutagain, I hope you got my PM, I hear they don't always
go through.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 28, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
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It will be wet right after the traverse and another spot up higher.
This winter has been the one of the wettest in years.
Tons of snow above the rim still sitting there.
I see water coming out everywhere where there hasn't been for many years now.
There will water oozing out the seams in Yosemite you people haven't seen in years.
Camp 4 is a swamp right now in the front lower portion near the road.
The water is oozing straight up from underground in places.
Beware .......
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Mar 28, 2017 - 07:52pm PT
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When it's not 5.7 moves, it's mostly 5.8 with 5.9s sprinkled around.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Mar 29, 2017 - 07:48pm PT
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Footloose! Do it, have a blast!!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Mar 30, 2017 - 08:00am PT
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Footloose, did you ever make it to Red Rocks for your first trip there?
Phyl
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localdan
Trad climber
Visalia, CA
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Bump - will it be too wet this weekend? I know we’ve had another big snow year...advice appreciated!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Can't help you with real beta, but can at least heckle you and hope for some sharing. If you can climb a wet 5.9 finger crack for a few moves and tolerate squeezing through some moisture or moss, you're ready for whatever conditions you may find :) Just maybe be careful of that right variation that involves manteling onto a slab near the top. And take lots of pics and show us some snow-squeezin' if you get lucky.
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localdan
Trad climber
Visalia, CA
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Ended up doing first 6 pitches of Goodrich Pinnacle, and the first 2 pitches of Reed’s Direct. Scared off by the thought of seepage. GP a bit wet, RD not at all!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Pics or a didn't happen man.
GP was wet when le_bruce and I did it years ago. Definitely adds some spice before you get to the crack/chimney-like section at the top.
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