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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
thegermandude
Trad climber
Paderborn, Germany
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 16, 2017 - 05:32am PT
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Hi everyone,
following a work trip to the West coast I'll be spending one or two week in the Tahoe area (unless something else pops up) starting from May 24th. I'm looking to go both bouldering and climbing. I would appreciate it so much if any of the locals could show me around and take me climbing! Even if not, tips for bouldering spots to start with would be super nice.
I'm a 20 year old German, have climbed for 2 years, I've lead 5.10 trad routes. I'm mostly climbing trad on limestone, meaning that I've never had to place a cam. Did some bouldering on weathered granite and sandstone. I can bring gear, if it is suitable for the type of climbing there.
I'm looking forward to hearing from you!
Best,
Markus
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Mar 16, 2017 - 06:36am PT
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Tahoe is a big place. 100+km around the Lake. Where will you be? You'll probably be dealing with a little snow. If you find a partner for trad(gear) climbing then they should have equipment. There is a lot of high quality bouldering, a handful of good granite climbing areas and good access if you have a car.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Mar 16, 2017 - 07:59am PT
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I recommend focusing on Donner Summit on the north side and Lovers Leap on the south. Both places have great routes at your level and have a ton of fun climbing.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Mar 16, 2017 - 08:15am PT
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Agree, Lovers Leap for a few days. Might we worth hiring a guide for a 1/2-day or day.
http://www.loversleap.net/index.htm
Lots of climbers in the campground to hook up with, but not sure it will be open late-May due to heavy snow. Otherwise, try the bar at Strawberry Lodge near the base.
It might be worth the 3+-hour drive south to Bishop if you're into bouldering. Pick up this book at Eastside Sports. https://wolverinepublishing.com/bishop-bouldering1
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 16, 2017 - 09:10am PT
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Go east 150 miles, climb this and return with a full trip report. Lots of pics.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Mar 16, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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The Tahoe area is full of great climbing, but Lover's Leap is a real stand out in terms of uniqueness and quality. The climbing there is great fun, and unlike anywhere else in the world that I've seen. There is also excellent bouldering next to the camping area. If you have the chance to go there during the work week, you would miss the crowds. Donner summit is also a great place.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 12:56pm PT
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Go to the gym in incline village. Lots of local climbers. Tahoe is spread out as said above so a car is a necessity. Donner, Lovers Leap, Phantom Spires, Sugarloaf, Mayhem Cove, Luther Rock/Spires, D.L. Bliss State Park (bouldering), The Zephyrs (bouldering), Sugar Pine State Park (bouldering), Pie Shop, The Emeralds, Bowman Lake........ that should be enough to keep you busy.
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thegermandude
Trad climber
Paderborn, Germany
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2017 - 06:04am PT
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Thanks for the advice!
My plan is to stay at a hostel in South Lake Tahoe and get a rental car for the entire trip. Camping would be difficult, I'd have to bring a lot of stuff on the flight. But I'll definitely check out the campsite at lover's leap and the bar at the lodge. I will probably do a mix of bouldering and climbing (maybe with a guide).
How crowded is the area usually at that time of year and what is the weather like?
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Mar 17, 2017 - 06:48am PT
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Summer weather settles in the end of May, temps in the 70's at the Leap during the day with thunderstorms possible in the afternoon. Probably will deal with some snow, but not a problem.
Avoid weekends if you can, it gets crowded at the crags. I'd be surprised if the campground opens that early due to heavy snow.
Drive around the lake to Donner Summit for a change of pace. And don't miss Bishop.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Mar 17, 2017 - 11:22am PT
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We have a Holiday here called Memorial Day, which this year is Monday May 29th. Tons of climbers (working folks) will be out for the long holiday weekend May 26-29. Also, almost all the colleges will be done by then so the student climbers will also be out in force. I doubt you will have to hire a guide. Just post again here and on Mountain Project (in their "partners" section) just before you come and I'm sure you will find partners.
The "don't miss Bishop" comment is good if for some reason it's still too snowy in the Tahoe climbing areas. There has been a huge amount of snow this year. With a car, it's 3.5 hrs to Mammoth, another 45' to Bishop. TONS of world class bouldering between those two towns.
Bishop has an event called "Mule Days" over the Memorial Day weekend, so if you are in that area and want to see a parade with many nicely dressed mules, be in Bishop on the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend.
If you plan to stay in the Tahoe area, buy some 100% DEET as soon as you arrive.
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thegermandude
Trad climber
Paderborn, Germany
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2017 - 02:03am PT
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That seems to be perfect to get in touch with people :)
And I'll keep the Mule thing in mind for rest days.
Thanks for all the advice!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Mar 19, 2017 - 05:27am PT
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We should hook Hans Von Hamburger up. Maybe he could tick off the CA chapter of 50 Classic Climbs.
Start with Traveler's Buttress and bang out the rest.
The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.12
El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
El Capitan, Salathé Wall VI 5.10 A3
Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.7
Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Mar 23, 2017 - 10:51pm PT
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If you end up at Donner Summit (it's about an hour and fifteen minute drive from South Shore if the traffick is not bad) and are looking for a very unique place to stay; check out this place: http://clairtappaanlodge.com/
http://clairtappaanlodge.com/amenities
It's the Sierra Club's sprawling flagship lodge/retreat/hostel located on Donner Summit, 1-2 miles up the road from the crags. The 83 year old historic lodge/hostel has a long history of catering to climbers and hikers, and the operations manager could give you advice on where to climb, as he wrote the guidebook for the North Tahoe/Donner region ;)
Due to the huge snowfall this winter there will still be snow on most of the, very short, approaches and at the base of many of the routes at Donner, but much of the rock should be warm and dry by then.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Mar 24, 2017 - 06:16am PT
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Indeed, adventurous. Ski the chutes off Donner Peak and climb warm granite in the same day. What a year.
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thegermandude
Trad climber
Paderborn, Germany
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2017 - 10:50pm PT
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Sooo.... I'm already in California. Got some business in San Jose this week, and I'll be in South Lake Tahoe from 5/24 till 6/5.
I squeezed whatever climbing gear I could in my bag, which means that besides the essentials I managed to bring some of my trad gear.
Anyone in?
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