19th Century Climbing

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Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 8, 2017 - 10:48am PT
I keep running across these 19th Century climbing articles. Thought I'd create a thread in which to store them. Please feel free to contribute your own discoveries.

Here's one from The Daily Alta California, April 8, 1866. Unfortunately, the number of American ascents is right in the flaw, but interesting nevertheless.

Mt. Blanc ascents: Daily Alta California, April 8, 1866
Mt. Blanc ascents: Daily Alta California, April 8, 1866
Credit: Gregory Crouch

I'll add the others I've put in other threads below.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2017 - 10:49am PT
Here's the article about an 1864 climb of Mt. Hood I posted last week:

The Mining & Scientific Press, August 14, 1864
The Mining & Scientific Press, August 14, 1864
Credit: Gregory Crouch
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2017 - 10:54am PT
Here's the ones about Sugarloaf in 1860 I posted a while back:

Credit: Gregory Crouch

Credit: Gregory Crouch

Credit: Gregory Crouch
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2017 - 10:56am PT
And then this, about the "rebranding" of Lake Tahoe:

Marysville Daily Appeal, June 4, 1863
Marysville Daily Appeal, June 4, 1863
Credit: Gregory Crouch
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2017 - 11:00am PT
Credit: Gregory Crouch
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2017 - 11:02am PT
And here's one about an 1862 Indian fight at City of Rocks:

Daily Alta California, September 23, 1862
Daily Alta California, September 23, 1862
Credit: Gregory Crouch
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 8, 2017 - 11:25am PT
Greg: Did Donini ever talk much about his 19th Century climbs while you were in bivies with him?

Here's an article from June 24th 1884 in a Hailey, Idaho newspaper. The mine they were visiting sets at 10,468' just below the summit of White Knob Mountain.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#488926

A Google Earth photo of the mine, with my captions.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#488924

And a link to my longer post on the subject:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2577492&tn=240
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Feb 8, 2017 - 07:31pm PT
Nice topic Gregg!

I love this passage- puts you there.

John Muir
Ascent of Mt. Ritter
October, 1872


"At length, I found myself at the foot of a sheer drop in the bed of the avalanche channel, which seemed to bar all further progress. The tried dangers beneath seemed even greater than that of the cliff in front; therefore, after scanning its face again and again, I commenced to scale it, picking my holds with intense caution. After gaining a point about half-way to the top, I was brought to a dead stop, with arms outspread, clinging close to the face of the rock, unable to move hand or foot either up or down. My doom appeared fixed. I must fall. There would be a moment of bewilderment, and then a lifeless tumble down the once general precipice to the glacier below. When this final danger flashed in upon me, I became nerve-shaken for the first time since setting foot on the mountain, and my mind seemed to fill with a stifling smoke. But the terrible eclipse lasted only a moment, when life burst forth again with preternatural clearness. I seemed suddenly to become possessed of a new sense. The other self -- the ghost of by-gone experiences, instinct, or Guardian Angel -- call it what you will -- came forward and assumed control. Then my trembling muscles became firm again, every rift and flaw was seen as through a microscope, and my limbs moved with a positiveness and precision with which I seemed to have nothing at all to do. Had I been borne aloft upon wings, my deliverance could not have been more complete. Above this memorable spot, the face of the mountain is still more savagely hacked and torn. But the strange influx of strength I had received seemed inexhaustible. I found a way without effort and soon stood upon the topmost crag in the blessed light."
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 8, 2017 - 09:18pm PT
Here is one...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1579862/Edward-Whymper-First-Ascent-of-the-Aiguille-Verte-1865
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 9, 2017 - 10:06am PT
This photo is purportedly Judge Winchell on top of Mount Winchell in the Sierras in 1868. However, the first recorded ascent of Mount Winchell was in 1923.

But let's not let facts ruin a great patriotic photo.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#489057
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 9, 2017 - 10:20am PT
^^^Hmmm...look at the fellers pistol. Was that model available in 1868? Should be black powder percussion at that time?

Makes me doubt the date of the photo.
john hansen

climber
Feb 9, 2017 - 10:32am PT
Revolvers were used extensively in the Civil war.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2017 - 05:32pm PT
That's likely either a Colt 5-shooter or a Colt Navy revolver. Both widely used before, during, and after the Civil War. Sidearms of choice on the mining frontier.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 9, 2017 - 06:27pm PT
Credit: Reilly
Lucy 'Badazz' Walker
Lucy 'Badazz' Walker
Credit: Reilly

No five-shooter needed.
Happy Cowboy

Social climber
Boz MT
Feb 9, 2017 - 06:39pm PT
Century drift...Fritz made me do it!
Credit: Happy Cowboy
Shameless bump for my Grandfather. I showed this to Ken Yegar years ago. He thought that there had to have been an earlier ascent but got back to me later having found no evidence. He felt it might've been the FA of Sentinel. I've never researched anything contrary. Help...

It reads "Mr. W. L. Black, considering the years that have passed since the enclosed names and address were written it is doubtful this reaches you, & if it does, perhaps not probable that you will remember it. I was on top of Sentinel Rock yesterday & took this from a tomato can. Your name with the other members of party were on a separate sheet, & was the only written record. It was dated July 11 -1907
Yours truly E J Holman"

MouseMerced helped figure out who Holman was and relation to the Curry Co. it's noted in Tarbuster's Yosemite circa 1931 thread.
Greg, thanks for the opportunity, HC
seano

Mountain climber
none
Feb 9, 2017 - 07:00pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#489191
Outram's "In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies" is well worth a look.
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Feb 9, 2017 - 07:51pm PT
Early Alpine Images
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 9, 2017 - 08:21pm PT
I went looking for this quote:

Jan 2, 2012 - 01:06pm PT Mighty Hiker
"It has frequently been noticed that all mountains appear doomed to pass through the three stages: An inaccessible peak - The most difficult ascent in the Alps - An easy day for a lady."

A.F. Mummery, but perhaps apropos.

and since I thought the quote was from Edward Whymper, I found this nice thread on Whymper's first ascent of the Aiguille Verte on June 29, 1865.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1579862/Edward-Whymper-First-Ascent-of-the-Aiguille-Verte-1865

photo not found
Missing photo ID#489203

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 11, 2017 - 06:57pm PT
And another...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/676375/American-Annie-S-Peck-Climbs-the-Matterhorn-1895
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2017 - 10:04am PT
I think this might be the original "Dirtbag Manifesto"...

And the greatest.

Starting on the bottom of p. 269, with the paragraph that begins, "Huck Finn's wealth..."

and reading to the top of p. 272,ending with, "... and you go and beg off for me with the widder."

here, at Archive.org...

It's also a phenomenal piece of writing.
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