whats wrong with your harness

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 22 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Peater

Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 21, 2017 - 01:09am PT
You climb trad. What would make it better?

You do sport. What could it do better?

You solo. Never mind.

You ice climb. You shouldn't.

You cave. You really really shouldn't. Unless you want nightmares about squeezing through tiny tiny one way holes.

Anyway what's your dream harness for your version of climbing.

healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 21, 2017 - 06:12am PT
It just works - never had a complaint.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 21, 2017 - 06:54am PT
Tad for the win!!!!!

couchmaster

climber
Jan 21, 2017 - 07:12am PT

Couple of harness thoughts for you peater: If there was a way to tuck the crap away when squeezing into chimneys I'd want one. Currently you can tie in with a bowline on a coil sans harness, or just tie the usual figure 8 extra big, but all the accoutrements like gear loops sticking out, still exist.

Next, gear loops seem to start in the back with most harnesses (so the gear doesn't bang your legs of course), wouldn't it be nice to have them be able to swing over towards the front? Say you're on a stance looking at a crux up high, you grab the 2 pieces you think might fit and position them towards the front of the gear loop, but the gear loop itself is still back there in a less than optimal place (in my view).
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Jan 21, 2017 - 08:23am PT
Because of lower back issues...

currently using a YATES "Big wall" harness for it's larger, more padded waste belt...

But talk about a big time pain in the ASS, super sh!tty buckling system...

The double buckles are near impossible to feed back through and even when you do, the damned things don't hold tight, and it loosens itself...


THE BUCKLES ON MY HARNESS SUCK!!!...

If you're looking for a super comfortable, beefy harness, check out the Misty Mountain Cadillac. Much better than the Yates, IMHO.

Curt
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Jan 21, 2017 - 10:47am PT
chic above. The Harness is on backward.
chainsaw

Trad climber
CA
Jan 21, 2017 - 02:34pm PT
Petzl big wall with D rings
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jan 21, 2017 - 03:14pm PT
I have a Petzl Calidris. Their big wall type harness but it's much lighter and more well ventilated than other big wall harnesses. I use it for everything.

I had a Yates. Yup buckle sucks.

The problem with Misty harnesses is they don't breathe well so on warm days the soft fabric covering gets sweaty and starts to chafe me.

The problem with the petzl is there's no elastic in the leg loops so even if they are set really tight they still end up sliding down.
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Jan 21, 2017 - 03:46pm PT
BD Big Gun is a decent wall harness for me, not too bulky and not too uncomfy. I love the real double back buckle.

What sucks:
1) Keeper strap for the leg loops SUCKS. Takes a pair of needle nose pliers to put back in the morning after taking the leg loops off at night.
2) 2 layers of gear loops are STUPID. Top ones are useless.
3) Needs adjustable rise, as do many other harnesses.
4) Location of hammer loop in the middle of a gear loop in stupid, should be in between gear loops.
5) Elastic in the back of the leg loops is obnoxious to adjust, like most harnesses. I wish this was better though out to adjust one handed while on a pitch or while tramping down the walk off.
TimH

Trad climber
Jan 21, 2017 - 04:56pm PT
Considering the Supertopo demographic I'd say a
combo harness/hernia belt. ;)

Combo harness and Depends might be a better idea.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 21, 2017 - 05:04pm PT
Misty Mountain Cadillac. Well made, bomber and comfortable.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jan 21, 2017 - 05:11pm PT
My first harness was a BD Alpine (no gear loops or belay loop) and I was fine with it. Didn't know anything different. Second was a BD middle of the road harness that turns out to have been my favorite. I complained a bit about the gear loops for OW climbs, but overall they were useful.

The Petzl I have now absolutely bites (the quartz crystals) in squeeze chimneys. And the fixed legs are stupid too... always sliding down, risk of having a ball accident because you can't keep the leg loops consistently well placed. So, low profile metal buckle with no bent angles to catch on the rock in a squeeze, and adjustable leg loops, is the only way for me to go in the future.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jan 21, 2017 - 06:36pm PT
I want a harness with adjustable leg loops (for layering clothes and loosening up for walk offs) but with elastic too so they don't slide down. It seems they are all one or the other.

I like parachute buckles way better than double back buckles.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Jan 21, 2017 - 07:37pm PT
for liability minimization you must use a double pass buckle.
no matter what the load test, the lawyer sueing you can make it look bad.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 21, 2017 - 08:54pm PT
What's not to love about this harness?


All sh*t aside, I'm on my third Misty Mtn. Cadillac, each new one has some little refinements. A gym or sport climber might find it a tad heavy, a wall rat a tad light. For me it's perfect.
Edge

Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2017 - 10:14pm PT
My harness is capable of climbing 4 number grades harder than I can climb.

Otherwise, it's a harness. Having started with a single crotch strap Whillans, then moving on to a 4" swami for my wall climbing period, anything that supports waist and both thighs without separating "the boys" is awesome in my book.
Peater

Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2017 - 11:00pm PT
the Fet: Parachute buckles.

I once bought a dozen of them to check out. One of the twelve didn't work. Too many moving parts inside. It seemed to latch but would just pull apart.

ksolem:

Finest harness ever made, the original Chouinard white harness!! Nothings adjustable, half pound waist buckle, no gear loops, made from a single piece of 2" webbing. But it was a really good harness for the time.
JC Marin

Trad climber
CA
Jan 21, 2017 - 11:23pm PT
whats wrong with your harness

I'm wearing it
Peater

Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2017 - 12:01am PT
"""Peater;
If I'm not mistaken we have both roped up with "Rubidoux" Jim Wilson BITD.
He was my climbing mentor and first partner 71/72.
I've enjoyed your contributions to this campfire.
Thanks,
Tad """

Thank you Tad, Sometimes I think my spew will get me in trouble. And it occasionally does but it's all good intentioned.

I know both the Wilsons, the R Rat and Mad Dog, but it's been a while.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 22, 2017 - 08:43am PT
Mad Dog still shows at Stoney Point, Tues./Thurs. afternoons in good weather when he's around...
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