Incredible and very difficult ice climbing!!!!!

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 20 of total 38 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Watermann2

Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 10, 2016 - 12:09am PT
Good Morning to All. Beautiful video of this incredible and very difficult ice climbing: what to say to these formidable ice climbers: CHAPEAU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Many greetings


http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/tim-emmett-and-klemen-premrl-climb-interstellar-spice-at-helmcken-falls.html
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 10, 2016 - 12:18am PT

Holy ghost... that's bat sh#t crazy... Chapeau...
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Dec 10, 2016 - 01:16am PT
Norman Kingsley wrote the first English Language book on Ice Climbing..

He did not do a self promoting video...
but he did have 200 first ascents...

some were formidable peaks..

all with crazy marginal gear...

or, Jeff Lowe climbed the north face of Ama Dablam, solo, in a DAY.

so to call yourself the climber of the most difficult ice climb, on that, is, well, embarrassing.
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Dec 10, 2016 - 02:37am PT
A very difficult climb, but I am concerned that because the entire route is bolt protected and it was clear from the video that some of the bolts are hard to find will that wall become festooned with added bolts as parties attempt to repeat the route, but can't find previous bolts.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 10, 2016 - 06:53am PT
It's a sport ice climb where the emphasis is entirely on the physical difficulty. All of the hardest "mixed' climbs are in the same mode.
In real ice and mixed climbing, physical prowess is important but the mental part is paramount.
What they did required tremendous physical gifts but is a an entirely different animal from onsight ice/mixed climbs.
Two different activities.....choose your poison.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Dec 10, 2016 - 11:01am PT
Clipping bolts while hanging off of hooks = sport aid.

:p
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 10, 2016 - 11:06am PT

If you watch the video, the mental aspect is quite obvious with falling ice and stone.
ecdh

climber
the east
Dec 10, 2016 - 11:13am PT
Its a phase. Theyve raised the athletic bar relatively safely, someday someone will do it without bolts. Gadd has been toying with modified spectres for the foamy ice where screws wont work.
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
Dec 10, 2016 - 11:21am PT
Stellar ice pump FA! Good use of a metal detector!
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Dec 10, 2016 - 11:32am PT
Ed, wasn't Jeff's route on Ama Dablam the South Face? Just asking..
TY
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Dec 10, 2016 - 11:34am PT
interesting comments, ecdh. this is what I appreciate ST for!

hadn't heard about the modded spectres....but a quick search shows them on BD's Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/p/yfybpGijen/?modal=true

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Dec 10, 2016 - 11:50am PT
Nice camera work and editing. Looks like a pain in the ass to prep the draws for the send, knocking blocks of ice off, metal detector to find a hanger...
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Dec 10, 2016 - 04:00pm PT
This may not translate

Sick and Twisted!

Ice is nice I love ice ,even though it's always trying to kill me,

Full conditions, Way more than That there , -was More than I could chew. . . .

It is okay if only I see the skull face at the bottom Lots of bolts on this would be fun, it gets phatt
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
Dec 10, 2016 - 04:10pm PT


You're gonna die!!!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 10, 2016 - 05:14pm PT
Definatly a sport climb.
nah000

climber
no/w/here
Dec 10, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
come on ole timers...



first EdBannister wrote: "Norman Kingsley wrote the first English Language book on Ice Climbing.. He did not do a self promoting video..."

really? does switching the sentence order help you to see the irony in the implication of your assertions:
Norman Kingsley did not do a self promoting video... He did write the first English Language book on Ice Climbing..

ie. if instagram had existed, you're making a great case that kingsley would have been the "first" to adopt it...

that was followed up with: "so to call yourself the climber of the most difficult ice climb, on that, is, well, embarrassing."

no more embarrassing than saying that tommy and kevin's ascent of the dawn wall is the most difficult rock climb when alex hasn't free soloed it.

while the sentence may technically be incomplete as it should have said "the most technically difficult single pitch [mostly] water ice climbing", it certainly isn't anywhere near "embarrassing"...

ie. your shade is shady... :)



then with all due respect to a master we have donini's: "In real ice and mixed climbing, physical prowess is important but the mental part is paramount. What they did required tremendous physical gifts but is a an entirely different animal from onsight ice-mixed climbs. Two different activities.....choose your poison."

so... you think sitting in an amphitheatre with a 500' active waterfall, while climbing overhanging and car sized styrofoam ice is the same as clipping bolts at ceuse just because... it is bolt protected?

nah, there's a reason gadd and emmett, the two guys who opened up this game, probably have, in combination, as many/more, heady ice climbing free soloes and naturally protected and onsight big mountain ice climbs, than almost anyone else in the crowd.

and it ain't because this is a completely different activity...

while the psychological component may not be quite as strong, it certainly hasn't been eliminated, at least in that environs [and at least from the perspective of this soon to be old person's armchair]...



thanks for the post Watermann2!!!!!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Dec 10, 2016 - 08:11pm PT
Pretty wild stuff! At first I wasn't quite sure what was going on. So they rapped down the route, exposed the bolts, put in the draws, and sent? That looked like some crazy fun. Hats off! But keep the helmets on....

BAd
cavemonkey

Ice climber
ak
Dec 10, 2016 - 08:33pm PT
Klemen is the real deal for those of you who don't know
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Dec 10, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
ice inna the eyeballs
that alone is crazyshite
beautiful setting for sure
TFPU!
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Dec 10, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
>So they rapped down the route, exposed the bolts, put in the draws, and sent?

I might be wrong but I don't believe they rapped the route to expose the bolts. Its too overhanging for that, plus with all the hanging daggers that would be a good way to die. I'm pretty sure they were climbing ground up, with a metal detector to find the 28 bolts.

see http://www.planetmountain.com/en/photos/tim-emmett-and-klemen-premrl-breakthrough-with-interstellar-spice-at-helmcken-falls/35035?s=2
Messages 1 - 20 of total 38 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta