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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 28, 2016 - 10:52pm PT
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I'm working on Big Baldy for the next page at http://www.SEKIclimbing.com/ and it's tougher than expected for such a simple (and awesome) formation.
The old guidebook said there was lots of FA potential and people took that and ran with it. The only problem is that I think a lot of routes were climbed by visitors and/or seasonal employees so I'm having trouble tracking things down.
The late, and wonderfully friendly, Richie Copeland worked seasonally at Montecito and we had plans to sort out the routes together before he unfortunately passed away. I wonder who else is out there that might know something I don't and be willing to help?
Here are a couple of draft photos to hopefully help bring back the memories.
Thanks a ton to those of you who have already helped! It's such a fantastic and varied formation with an easy approach. I doubt my guide will bring crowds, but maybe it'll help get the moss out of the cracks and uncover some forgotten gems.
Please ask around and thanks in advance!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Nov 29, 2016 - 07:30am PT
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Sorry I wasn't able to help you out on the beta for Bald Monkey, DJ. I vaguely remember it. Again, check with Zulim or Archer. As memory serves, I did it with Archer and Roger Hayashi. UGGG!!....old age! :/
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Nov 29, 2016 - 07:36am PT
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Yay Daniel!! I didn't know Richie was involved with the area.. too bad..
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2016 - 10:11am PT
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No problem Dave, I have the world's worst memory so I won't hold that against anyone. I don't know Archer or Hayashi but I'll call Zulim and see if he remembers anything. I tentatively drew Bald Monkey into the east face topo with a note that it's uncertain. Couldn't find anything fitting the description on the other faces and I don't have a good photo of the east face. Thought I did but I either don't or just lost it. Annoying...
Brian, does the overlay for Welcome to Big Baldy look ok? Your mountainproject description was super helpful, thanks! Maybe between that and this the first pitch will clean up a bit. Oh ya, and it turns out I've been messed up all season from Lyme disease so I'm on week 5 of treatment. Hopefully I'll get back in shape and we can climb when I'm not a weak sissy! (i.e. Tehipite, Moro, North Sentinel, etc... :)
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Nov 29, 2016 - 12:59pm PT
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Some scratch notes I think I gave you from Ian Katz's line up the very middle of the steepest part of Big Baldy. 'Sika' 5.11 3 pitches.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2016 - 01:19pm PT
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Oh ya, you did give me that and I just found it on my computer. Thanks for the reminder!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Nov 29, 2016 - 02:42pm PT
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Ok Limp, I'm ready to commit to drawing you a map of these formations. I have two weeks off during Christmas and it seems like a fun project to sit around and sketch with a cup of cocoa. Lets talk soon.
Micro
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 29, 2016 - 02:50pm PT
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I do think that Herb L did some early climbing there.... you should contact him.
I have never climbed at Big B. hiked in one time and it started raining so I just pushed through the brush and looked around. Lots of potential and I figured the Central Valley Boyz would spend some time and get it done.
Is Big B. affected by the seasonal Falcon Closing?
And Daniel.... good luck with the Lyme thing.... the cost of adventure.
Thanks for doing the hard work.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 29, 2016 - 03:33pm PT
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micro, great drawing! lol
Limping, hope you score more info!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2016 - 06:54pm PT
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Guy, I believe Herb recorded most of his routes but I haven't talked to him. Any chance you have his info? The PM thing on here sucks so if you do please send it to danieljeffcoach @ gmail . com
Big Baldy isn't affected by any closures but I often see the pair that lives at Chimney Rocks flying around. The dirt road for the easy approach is closed all winter and the Generals Highway to the normal trailhead is closed for most of the winter, unless there's a long dry spell.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2016 - 06:56pm PT
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Rene, any chance you think Sika is the route labeled "unknown" on my south face overlay? It looks like his notes say there's one bolt and that's all I could see from the ground on that route.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2016 - 07:10pm PT
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One more thing, I'll mail a $100 bill to the first person to redpoint the laser cut thin crack through the roof above the fist pitch of Phrenology. It looks amazing and well beyond my ability so I want someone else to give it a shot :)
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Nov 29, 2016 - 08:21pm PT
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Daniel, Yes it sure could be the unknown climb. I think on the second pitch he said it had 3 roofs?? Maybe if you zoom in on that you could tell. And I'm pretty sure he told me that he rapped in on a rap route he put in on the spine....This might have been in the 90's..
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2016 - 01:07pm PT
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Bump before I try to get what I have so far online tonight.
Thanks again!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Nov 30, 2016 - 01:24pm PT
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Hey Daniel -
I think I have his number. i'll check when I get off work (no can do using phone here at work.....secret squirrel stuff and all). He lives pretty close to me (Bodfish). I'll see if Marco has his number. Or maybe Guyzo will beat me to it.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2016 - 01:39pm PT
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Thanks, if you figure that or his email out and can send it to me on Fb messenger that would be sweeeeet. I'll go find and climb bald monkey as soon as I can take the lazy driving approach next spring!
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Nov 30, 2016 - 02:34pm PT
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Don't forget about 'Baby Baldy'....
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2016 - 03:44pm PT
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Ha! I'll get Baby Baldy on there sometime too. Although when I went to check it out it was a little more baby-sized than I expected. Easiest approach in the park though!
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Nov 30, 2016 - 05:15pm PT
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Slick and I worked on a face on the west side 10 years back...I remember getting a pitch up but don't remember where...sheesh
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 30, 2016 - 05:39pm PT
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I don't have Herbs phone # .... but he sells his Guides through here:
info@kernvalleyclimbs.com
I bet you to will have a blast.... Herb is a very expert fisherman.
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