First Free Ascent of Sentinel West Face

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 76 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2016 - 11:33am PT
This may have been overlooked and overshadowed with Ondra's Dawn Wall ascent.

Kevin Jorgeson and Ben Rueck - First Free Ascent of Sentinel West Face

http://gripped.com/news/kevin-jorgeson-and-ben-rueck-free-1960-yosemite-aid-line/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BK86sMMjX6_/?taken-by=kjorgeson&hl=en

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLejuHoDfsE/?taken-by=kjorgeson&hl=en
couchmaster

climber
Nov 23, 2016 - 12:18pm PT

That's some worthy climbing news, thanks for putting it up. Will pay extra for sunny granite climbing shotz:-) Need more pictures and I'm only saying that as a selfish DH sitting in an office watching it rain outside.

I thought this was interesting, I clicked on KJ's Tweet photo that you linked and a bunch of big climbing sponsor labels popped up.

BAMMMM
Credit: couchmaster
ryankelly

Trad climber
Bhumi
Nov 23, 2016 - 02:13pm PT
mega write up

you gotta topo? or you throwing it back to the Roper days?
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2016 - 02:40pm PT
Ho Man. Largo - thanks for posting that.
couchmaster

climber
Nov 23, 2016 - 02:58pm PT


Largo, the world misses it when you don't write man, that stuff is so damned good. Thanks for putting that in this thread. Great writing!
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Nov 23, 2016 - 03:26pm PT
Thanks, John. Great accomplishment, nicely told.
kingtut

Social climber
carmel, ca
Nov 23, 2016 - 05:33pm PT
TY Ser Largo!
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Nov 23, 2016 - 06:05pm PT
Cool read, Largo

I remember watching the West Face film back in the early 70's
Another outstanding piece on the Valley

Hats off to the FFA team
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Nov 23, 2016 - 06:36pm PT
Thanks John--way to get the spirit flowing
greyghost

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
Nov 23, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
We were hanging out a bit when you were trying to free that BITD's; nice write up. Awesome job for first ascent team.
ryankelly

Trad climber
Bhumi
Nov 23, 2016 - 07:55pm PT
his story is better than most climbing writing, but that ain't saying much

so many proclamations and predictions of the future glory of this climb

how many repeats?
Matt's

climber
Nov 23, 2016 - 07:56pm PT
good writing largo...

...but that's a whole lot of spray for adding one pitch of 5.12 free climbing to a 30 year old route... and not even doing it in the ground-up style. Come on, its 2015... I guess when a multinational sporting goods company is footing the bill style matters less than creating marketing material?
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Nov 23, 2016 - 10:47pm PT
Never written a word that was marketing material, but once that started getting spewed around I nixed the story immediately. Wrong guy. Wrong read.

kingtut

Social climber
carmel, ca
Nov 23, 2016 - 11:12pm PT
...but that's a whole lot of spray for adding one pitch of 5.12 free climbing to a 30 year old route... and not even doing it in the ground-up style. Come on, its 2015... I guess when a multinational sporting goods company is footing the bill style matters less than creating marketing material?

Tell you what Matty, you go up there and see what the West Face is all about and you give us a report.

Then we'll compare notes about what you think about it.

Naitch

climber
Blue Ridge Mts, Shenandoah River
Nov 24, 2016 - 11:56am PT
Damn...I saw it last night and was going to read it today and now it's gone. :-(
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Nov 24, 2016 - 02:32pm PT
Tell you what Matty, you go up there

Matt's ≠ matty!!!!

but no worries we know you you were referring too ;)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 24, 2016 - 02:58pm PT
The thread from October:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2888490/West-Face-of-Sentinel-and-The-Misty-Wall-all-free
Matt's

climber
Nov 24, 2016 - 03:28pm PT
Tell you what Matty, you go up there and see what the West Face is all about and you give us a report.

Then we'll compare notes about what you think about it.

The difference is that I'm not paid to climb. The story about freeing this route has not received much media attention is because, frankly, it's not cutting edge-- in 2015, a single new pitch of 5.12 trad climbing is not really news-worthy.

It's cool that Largo brought in a younger generation of climbers to finish up a route he had worked on long ago-- I just find it sad that there didn't appear to be any attempt to hold that younger generation (fully capable of onsighting 5.12) to a similar climbing ethic. Style doesn't seem to matter when the #1 goal is to create marketing material for adidas...
Spiny Norman

Social climber
Boring, Oregon
Nov 24, 2016 - 03:45pm PT
Heckuva job, Matt. You got Largo to take down one of the more interesting pieces of writing posted here in some time. Can't wait to see how else you serve the community.
kingtut

Social climber
carmel, ca
Nov 24, 2016 - 10:32pm PT
The difference is that I'm not paid to climb. The story about freeing this route has not received much media attention is because, frankly, it's not cutting edge-- in 2015, a single new pitch of 5.12 trad climbing is not really news-worthy.

It's cool that Largo brought in a younger generation of climbers to finish up a route he had worked on long ago-- I just find it sad that there didn't appear to be any attempt to hold that younger generation (fully capable of onsighting 5.12) to a similar climbing ethic. Style doesn't seem to matter when the #1 goal is to create marketing material for adidas...

You don't get it dude.

WF of Sentinal *was* a long standing problem. Personally, I think an 8' huck 2000' off the deck then finishing up on poorly protected 12b is plenty cutting edge. Something only the very few capable of climbing far harder can do. It took 5.14 able climbers with experience climbing hard above mank.

As well, you basically trolled John Long who deserves better, out of plain respect for posting something well written and done out of plain stoke for the route.

Lastly, by your trolling you also disrespect the early history of the route (that John was trying to honor) which is one of the most bad ass FA's in human history and the efforts of all of the early parties before cams. It is a history well worth sharing and now it is gone thanks to you.

If you had done the route like I have (1980) you would know this and would be ashamed of yourself.

You put your own negative and troll spin on his post that doesn't deserve being called marketing hype for Adidas (lol on the Taco). You owe him an apology, imo.

Nobody cares about style as long as it is honestly reported and the rock wasn't harmed.
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