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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
Kinker
Big Wall climber
Incheon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2016 - 10:54pm PT
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Could someone please let me know what's the meaning of "loose" in the picture ?
Is it defferent from "expando"?
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Oct 18, 2016 - 11:00pm PT
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It just means 'stay relaxed'. It's very seventies.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 18, 2016 - 11:02pm PT
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It means you should be able to grab that pitch by the....
yeah, you know.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Oct 18, 2016 - 11:19pm PT
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Don't stand under it.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Oct 19, 2016 - 03:54am PT
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Really?
Are you not a native english speaker?
We generally call those route "maps" topos (as in Supertopo)
There is such a thing as a stupid question.
Probably a Euro . . .
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Oct 19, 2016 - 05:21am PT
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It means
yer gunna die!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Oct 19, 2016 - 06:19am PT
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loose = classic pitch on the Eiger or at Ralph Stover State Park in Pennsylvania
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Oct 19, 2016 - 06:23am PT
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Is it defferent from "expando"?
It's an extension of expando.
flake, hollow, expando, loose, holyf@#@! is the progression.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:16am PT
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Loose usually means something that is obviously loose and moves and rattles in place and is going to separate from the wall soon.
Expanding means the feature will move to a small degree making the gear behind it potentially dangerous. A long stretch of expanding features requires care since each subsequent placement tends to expand the feature more meaning the gear left behind may be unreliable. The feature is not likely to separate from the wall.
I hope that helps.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:31am PT
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Aside from the obvious "the rock is loose, i.e. not well connected," it implies that you should verify the integrity of your protection placements and be prepared for another hold to catch you if the main one you are using breaks or moves.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:39am PT
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Bottom line - if the route's been climbed, you can avoid the "loose" rock, just like the first ascent party did. Occasionally, a block will loosen with time, but that's rare.
Like pitches 11, 12, 13 on HD?
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:46am PT
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느슨한 바위
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Oct 19, 2016 - 10:13am PT
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Loose usually means something that is obviously loose and moves and rattles in place and is going to separate from the wall soon.
Expanding means the feature will move to a small degree making the gear behind it potentially dangerous. A long stretch of expanding features requires care since each subsequent placement tends to expand the feature more meaning the gear left behind may be unreliable. The feature is not likely to separate from the wall.
I hope that helps.
10 posts before anyone bothered to actually answer the question. this place sucks.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Oct 19, 2016 - 11:08am PT
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10 posts before anyone bothered to actually answer the question. this place sucks.
14 posts before someone decided that Supertopo sucks. I love this place.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 19, 2016 - 12:36pm PT
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15 posts and still no Godwin's law type of post?
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Oct 19, 2016 - 12:44pm PT
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10 posts before anyone bothered to actually answer the question. this place sucks.
15 posts before anyone bothered to appoint himself in charge of what should or should not be posted on an open internet forum.
Curt
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TLP
climber
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Oct 19, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
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The feature is not likely to separate from the wall.
Just for fun... I call BS, Levy! Your excellent TRs of megaclassics like the Sea and Jolly Roger certainly give a different impression. Something about the Blue Room squeegeeing the whole party. ;-0
True enough, the snippet in the OP would be mellow expando, but there are exceptions as you've given us all the sh##ts just reading your TRs.
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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Oct 19, 2016 - 01:55pm PT
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There is such a thing as a stupid question.
Probably a Euro . . .
Way to be a dick.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Oct 19, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
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It means "the fun part."
It also means stay away if you are a pussy.
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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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