What's the meaning of "loose" in route map ?

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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic
Kinker

Big Wall climber
Incheon
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2016 - 10:54pm PT
Could someone please let me know what's the meaning of "loose" in the picture ?
Is it defferent from "expando"?
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Oct 18, 2016 - 11:00pm PT
It just means 'stay relaxed'. It's very seventies.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Oct 18, 2016 - 11:02pm PT
It means you should be able to grab that pitch by the....

yeah, you know.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
Oct 18, 2016 - 11:19pm PT
Don't stand under it.
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
Oct 19, 2016 - 03:54am PT
Really?
Are you not a native english speaker?
We generally call those route "maps" topos (as in Supertopo)
There is such a thing as a stupid question.
Probably a Euro . . .
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Oct 19, 2016 - 05:21am PT
It means











































yer gunna die!
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
Oct 19, 2016 - 06:19am PT
loose = classic pitch on the Eiger or at Ralph Stover State Park in Pennsylvania
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Oct 19, 2016 - 06:23am PT
Is it defferent from "expando"?

It's an extension of expando.

flake, hollow, expando, loose, holyf@#@! is the progression.
Levy

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Oct 19, 2016 - 09:16am PT
Loose usually means something that is obviously loose and moves and rattles in place and is going to separate from the wall soon.

Expanding means the feature will move to a small degree making the gear behind it potentially dangerous. A long stretch of expanding features requires care since each subsequent placement tends to expand the feature more meaning the gear left behind may be unreliable. The feature is not likely to separate from the wall.

I hope that helps.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Oct 19, 2016 - 09:31am PT
Aside from the obvious "the rock is loose, i.e. not well connected," it implies that you should verify the integrity of your protection placements and be prepared for another hold to catch you if the main one you are using breaks or moves.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
Oct 19, 2016 - 09:39am PT
Bottom line - if the route's been climbed, you can avoid the "loose" rock, just like the first ascent party did. Occasionally, a block will loosen with time, but that's rare.

Like pitches 11, 12, 13 on HD?
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
Oct 19, 2016 - 09:46am PT
느슨한 바위
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Oct 19, 2016 - 10:13am PT
Loose usually means something that is obviously loose and moves and rattles in place and is going to separate from the wall soon.

Expanding means the feature will move to a small degree making the gear behind it potentially dangerous. A long stretch of expanding features requires care since each subsequent placement tends to expand the feature more meaning the gear left behind may be unreliable. The feature is not likely to separate from the wall.

I hope that helps.

10 posts before anyone bothered to actually answer the question. this place sucks.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Oct 19, 2016 - 11:08am PT
10 posts before anyone bothered to actually answer the question. this place sucks.

14 posts before someone decided that Supertopo sucks. I love this place.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 19, 2016 - 12:36pm PT
15 posts and still no Godwin's law type of post?
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Oct 19, 2016 - 12:44pm PT
10 posts before anyone bothered to actually answer the question. this place sucks.

15 posts before anyone bothered to appoint himself in charge of what should or should not be posted on an open internet forum.

Curt
TLP

climber
Oct 19, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
The feature is not likely to separate from the wall.

Just for fun... I call BS, Levy! Your excellent TRs of megaclassics like the Sea and Jolly Roger certainly give a different impression. Something about the Blue Room squeegeeing the whole party. ;-0

True enough, the snippet in the OP would be mellow expando, but there are exceptions as you've given us all the sh##ts just reading your TRs.
chill

climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
Oct 19, 2016 - 01:55pm PT
There is such a thing as a stupid question.
Probably a Euro . . .

Way to be a dick.
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
Oct 19, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
It means "the fun part."

It also means stay away if you are a pussy.
Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic
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