1931 Ascent of the Exum Ridge

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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 23, 2016 - 12:32pm PT
On July 15, 1931, Glenn Exum made the first ascent of one of North America's most classic mountaineering routes: the Exum Ridge on Wyoming's 13,770-foot Grand Teton. Fellow Teton guide, Paul Petzoldt, made the second ascent later that afternoon, solo. Petzold was on the third ascent as well, with Theodore and Gustav Koven, and in August of the same summer, Petzoldt—no stranger to publicity—put together an official photographic expedition to climb and document the route.

The climbers—Petzoldt, George L. Waters III, Walcott Watson, H.M. Sherman, Chas. E. Logan and a Mr. Lasky of San Francisco—made the fourth ascent of the ridge and procured some of the earliest North American climbing footage in existence. Five reels of sixteen-millimeter film and a number of still photographs were taken during the climb. The video in this Feature is the unadulterated work of the cinematographer and director of photography on that expedition, George Waters.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2016 - 12:38pm PT
And here's the B-Reel.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Aug 23, 2016 - 12:44pm PT
Wow, Mouse! I never knew this film existed. Thank you for sharing it.

John
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Aug 23, 2016 - 04:45pm PT
I met Exum (and Petzolt) in the 1950s. With movie star good looks, he was the perfect embodiment of a mountain guide and in fact was offered an entrance to a film career. My most vivid memory of him was when Yvon and I were up on a ridge rising from Garnet Canyon making the FA of a tiny spire we called the Knob. Exum was leading a party up the trail below and let out a magnificent yodel, to which Chouinard and I replied. Later, on the way down we met him and he told Yvon the he "looked like a ballet dancer up there!"

A bit of trivia.

;>)
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Aug 23, 2016 - 07:01pm PT
Thanks, Mouse.
I love this stuff. Thanks for putting in the work to find it for the rest of us.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
"A mere bag of shells", PhilG, as Ralphie Kramden used to say.

Thx to you and JE.

And for Tiny Nailer's tiny ballerina act and the first-hand account by jgill, the dancing master, a big pair of plus-fours, which in math terms...I'm no good at math, what am I saying?
Now the math gets more complicated (Higher Mathematics):

One plus-fours, plus two plus-fours equals how many legs?

I don't think Einstein could do this without help.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Aug 23, 2016 - 08:41pm PT
hey there say, mouse... wow! say, this is a fantastically neat find!

thanks so very much... i know it is a LOT of work, too, at times,
to do this stuff!

thanks so very much!

makes me remember some of my 'not busy nights' when i loved looking for neat stuff... never would have found THIS though...

i loved finding the neat stuff that i did though-- as, i learned so much
about 'the old days' :)



(thinking of the ski-division, etc) ...


and the DAM blasters... as in cement dams, :)
SFDukie

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Aug 23, 2016 - 09:42pm PT
Wow. Neat footage-that step around on Wall Street looks the same as when I first did it, 70 years later.
Thanks for posting!
Don
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