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Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
Kinker
Big Wall climber
Incheon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 21, 2016 - 10:37pm PT
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My team plans to climb Elcap next year but has little information of the spot. So, I’ll appreciate someone to reply for my questions.
1. Among a few cam brands such as Black Diamond, Alien, Wild Country, which one is recommendable to use on Elcap ? What is pros and cons of each brand? How about the brand named of Trango from Korea?
2. Is there any place to rent a double portaledge at Yosemite valley ?
3. On Tangerine Trip, many climbers mention that hauling from ground to 4 pitch is easy peasy however someone advised it could be dangerous because of rope damage by bounce up & down while jugging. So, I’m confused whose advice is more correct.
Please, give me an advice. It will be helpful. Thank you.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Aug 21, 2016 - 10:57pm PT
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You seek a great fortune,
you three who are now in chains.
You will find a fortune,
though it will not be the fortune you seek.
But first...
first you must travel a long and difficult road,
a road fraught with peril, mm-hmm.
You shall see things...
wonderful to tell.
You shall see a... a cow...
on the roof of a cotton house, ha.
And, oh, so many startlements.
I cannot tell you how long this road shall be,
but fear not the obstacles in your path,
for fate has...
vouchsafed your reward.
Though the road may wind,
yea, your hearts grow weary,
still shall ye follow them,
even unto your salvation.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Aug 21, 2016 - 11:37pm PT
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My team plans to climb Elcap ... Werner will be administering the last rites, and bagging/ tagging your corpses.
I'd start chanting the Maha Mantra if I was you.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 22, 2016 - 12:17am PT
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Wow, tough crowd tonight.
I don't think there is anywhere to rent a portaledge. Might want to see if someone will let you borrow one, but don't think that will happen.
I'll defer to others about cams, stoppers, etc. for pro on the Trip.
Maybe buy a guide book?
Yer
gonna
die!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 22, 2016 - 05:25am PT
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The trip is not a good choice for a first el cap route by n000bs
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Aug 22, 2016 - 05:30am PT
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3. On Tangerine Trip, many climbers mention that hauling from ground to 4 pitch is easy peasy however someone advised it could be dangerous because of rope damage by bounce up & down while jugging. So, I’m confused whose advice is more correct.
It is easier but more dangerous
Easier does not mean safer
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Aug 22, 2016 - 05:31am PT
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Troll-and you know who
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Aug 22, 2016 - 08:16am PT
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Lame troll, gimping along, being heavily supported by others.
It's a sad sight.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Aug 22, 2016 - 10:43am PT
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Among a few cam brands such as Black Diamond, Alien, Wild Country, which one is recommendable to use on Elcap ?
Also look into Totem. Everyone I know who used them like them. I like mine. I was told they really shine when aiding. Also, they make offsets that can prove useful for El Cap aiding.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Aug 22, 2016 - 10:44am PT
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While we're at it, DMT, how about this?
For $2000 per day, WE will climb the route of your choice as your proxies, so that your "team" can sit in lawn chairs in the meadow watching "your own" ascent take place. Afterward, you can return home and spray about your "ascent."
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Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
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