Please, give your tips of Zodiac & Tangerine Trip

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
Kinker

Big Wall climber
Incheon
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 11, 2016 - 04:49pm PT
Hello Climbers,

I’m a Korean and would like to beg your understanding awkward asking & expression.
I began aid climbing this year and going to climb Elcap next year that I have dreamed for a long times but have limited information.
So, I’ll appreciate you to share valuable experience and information of about Zodiac or Tangerine Trip.
Especially I’m curious of the below things
About Zodiac,
1. How’s the weather condition on early May ? I’m not sure if it is OK with rain while climbing.
2. According to a guide book, 115 meter hauling with 2 tied rope at 4th pitch is recommended to avoid raindrop on 2nd & 3rd pitch. So, I’d like to know how to haul with 2 tied ropes. I meant how the knot pass through protraction & pulley with 3:1 hauling system
3. I heard almost climb is hammerless these day. How much does frequently climber use the hammer at every pitch ?
4. How’s bivouac condition at the Zodiac route basement ? I’m not sure I don’t have to warry about something falling
5. Could you please let me know there is any tip to climb Zodiac route ?

About Tangerine Trip,
1. How’s bivouac condition at the T. Trip route basement ?
2. I heard that on May, down climbing at 4th pitch was so slippy and it was better to take Lost in America and Virginia to 4th pitch. Is it really recommendable ?
3. How long & much difficult is the free climbing of 16th pitch ?
4. Could you please let me know there is any tip to climb T. Trip route ?

Thank you
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Aug 11, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
Sounds from your post that you have limited experience. Go there, look at the walls and figure out if you are up to them.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Aug 11, 2016 - 05:39pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Tangerine-Trip-2015/t13028n.html
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Aug 11, 2016 - 06:02pm PT
Did not mean to sound negative. Don't know what you have done. Seems like you have done your research and there are people here that know more than I do.

Good luck, have fun and enjoy Yosemite.
WBraun

climber
Aug 11, 2016 - 07:05pm PT
The English is too perfect.

Suprema troll .....
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Aug 11, 2016 - 07:58pm PT
Peanut Ledge, don't remember how i got there.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
Aug 11, 2016 - 09:04pm PT
So slippy...? Get Cosmic on the Red phone..Pronto..!
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Aug 11, 2016 - 09:08pm PT
The English is too perfect.

Suprema troll .....

Having spent some time teaching English in Korea, I agree with Werner that the language does not match typical Korean English.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Aug 11, 2016 - 09:15pm PT
I’m not sure I don’t have to warry about something falling

Just make sure it's not you . . . don't warry.
BigB

Trad climber
Red Rock
Aug 12, 2016 - 08:42am PT
...be happy!
xtrmecat

Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
Aug 12, 2016 - 09:34am PT
I wouldn't cheat yourself by not doing the trips start. It is nothing special, but it is part of the experience as a whole. We hauled the pigs from the beginning and did the lower outs without issues. The wet and slick you are concerned about we also did in May and I didn't find it bad at all. It was wet,it took some thought, but it was worth every bit of it to do the route proper.

I also wouldn't worry about Zodiac as we had snow and rain for the start of it. The wet did rain on the pigs but knowing this ahead of time we just used our garbage bags to cover the tops and didn't get anything wet.
Quite worrying about the small stuff and just keep going up. Take plenty of water, and allow for time on your schedule. Enjoy.

Burly Bob

Edit to add, the free at the end of the trip I did in approach shoes and found that they were plenty okay. Although technical, the climbing and line finding is easy.
Prod

Trad climber
Aug 13, 2016 - 07:49am PT
#1. Zodiac is pretty steep and stays relatively dry in rain storms, for the most part. So May should be ok.
#2. If you Fix to 4, 2 70 meter ropes gets you to the ground. You rap right past a set of anchors, I think it is the top or pitch 2? But it could be anchors for shortest straw? Can't remember. While rapping, tie the rope into these anchors. The next morning the first guy jugs up with the haul line. Gets to midpoint anchors and hauls from there. Then repeat to upper anchors.
#3. We climbed it 6 or so years ago and I think we hammered 5 times. Pitch 7 (Black Tower pitch), 10 (Nipple Pitch), and maybe the Mark of Zorro pitch.
#4. Don't know. Most likely all's good. That area is the lading zone for lazy asses who throw their gear off the top. This is illegal and in general not an accepted practice. But I'm sure it still happens.
#5. Bring more small to medium offset cams.

Prod.
TLP

climber
Aug 13, 2016 - 10:19am PT
No one has mentioned one of the most important things for new El Cap visitors: you cannot leave food on the ground at the base of the wall, ever, even for a short period of time. It does not matter what container it is in, bears will find it and tear apart your gear to get it. Sometimes they even start tearing at a haul bag that was left on the ground only while the climber jumared up to haul it: 10 minutes or so. Sometimes bears bite into just plain water bottles, with no flavoring or anything. They are curious, maybe it is energy drink. So, if you choose to bivy at the base, hang all your food and water about 15 feet up, all the time, day or night. Every time a bear gets food from a haul bag, it gets more determined to tear open other haul bags, so make sure you do not let that happen. Thanks and enjoy!
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Aug 13, 2016 - 10:33am PT
yer guuna die
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Aug 13, 2016 - 08:44pm PT
Fixing the first four pitches on the Tangerine Trip with ropes tied together can be dangerous. The rope rubs over an edge when you bounce up and down while jugging. It's better to fix to the top of 5, rather than to the top of 4.

Someone else should confirm or correct this advice, but that is what I remember. WVB probably has some stories about that particular defect of the route.


Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Aug 27, 2016 - 09:47pm PT
No...sorry, your wrong... from the top of the 4th pitch the rope hangs free.

It also hangs free from the top of the 3rd pitch.

It rubs at the top of the 2nd and should be padded well if you fix there. Someone died there a while back I believe. A buddy of mine core shot his rope there. Its a 300ft jug to the top of p2, so if you are bouncing you could get the chop.
Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
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