Fixing a line and basic aid

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Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
Jack Phillips

Trad climber
Rescue, Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 22, 2016 - 10:50pm PT
I'm new to aid climbing, totally new and I'm wondering once the leader sets an anchor atop a pitch and the follower is ready to jumar up, how does the line become "fixed" into the anchor, I was think the best way may be to simply tie a figure 8 on a bite and clip it to the master point. I don't see an issue with this idea but I'm not sure what the normal way to go about this is.
Also, when following, if the following were to complete fall out of his or her ladders, would there only protection from falling the length of the entire rope be the daisy chains attached from belay loop to the ascenders?
Thanks for any advice,
Jack
overwatch

climber
Arizona
Jun 22, 2016 - 11:37pm PT
You certainly have the basic part right I think if you go through the supertopo aid climbing tips that are provided by CMAC linked to this forum you should have a better idea of the systems involved.

Click the tab above that is marked articles and have at it

vvvvvvv you know what they say about sugar and vinegar
Jack Phillips

Trad climber
Rescue, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2016 - 07:02am PT
Hmm can't seem to find what I want, but if it was so easily basic and simple why couldn't one of you unhelpful d#@&%ers even confirm or deny what I had already proposed? I doubt this is what Chris had in mind when creating a forum for people to help others with climbing questions, ya turkeys
Da-Veed

Big Wall climber
Bigfork
Jun 23, 2016 - 07:04am PT
You will have a tough time untying a figure 8 knot after jugging on it. Use a clove hitch as the main point and back it up with an eight to one of the bolts. When jugging, tie in short to the rope as you move up. Sometimes this is impossible if the haul bag is tied into the end.

Wow I just posted a response, dumb asses huh? Good luck bro.
WBraun

climber
Jun 23, 2016 - 07:50am PT
how does the line become "fixed" into the anchor

Take up bowling dude .....
Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
Jun 23, 2016 - 07:56am PT
For a troll to work you gotta reel us in a little before breaking out the insults.

1/10
dikhed

climber
State of fugue and disbelief
Jun 23, 2016 - 08:31am PT
Sorry Jackshit Filllip, welcome to Supertopo
overwatch

climber
Arizona
Jun 23, 2016 - 08:37am PT
I am new to aid climbing and I was wondering...F U C K Y O U! Thanks in advance for the response

vvvvv it's just a joke plus I tried to guide him in the right direction and then 'he' started right in with the name calling. And what exactly is the point that he has? Jive turkey!

Maybe you don't have anything to do but the only reason I get to post occasionally on this forum is because I teach out of my house. In between students or practice sessions I like to throw down a post now and then big deal. In fact I still have a while before my first student gets here if you want to continue with this

edit;

Mei's answer similar to mine, maybe she won't get flamed
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID or the fricken Bakken, variously
Jun 23, 2016 - 09:10am PT
Give it a break, will ya. He makes a good point. You're not doing anything anyway.
gathan

climber
Ontario, Canada
Jun 23, 2016 - 09:34am PT
I am also new to this facet of climbing.

Although I have spent many hours researching and putting into practice aid climbing techniques over the past 6 months, here in Ontario; I have yet to climb a big wall. This is hopefully going to change when my buddy and I make a trip to Cap Trinite in Quebec in August and give the route Les Grangs Galets a try.

I usually tie an alpine butterfly knot to secure the lead line to the master point, backed up by a figure eight. When following; we always back ourselves up with an eight on a bite.

Hopefully this helps, despite my very limited practical experience.

Andre

the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jun 23, 2016 - 10:15am PT
What?! 12 replies and no one said the most obvious thing.

Yer gonna die!

Also, how do you tie a figure 8?
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Jun 23, 2016 - 10:38am PT
My typical cordalette style anchor arrangement has the rope going to:
1) Me with a figure 8.

2) Clove hitch into a locker on a bolt on the far side of the anchor (farthest from wherever the follower is likely to need to come from and go to). The length is set to allow me to readily haul and what not.

3) Extra ~10' length for any possible screwing around gets clipped into a locker at the cordalette.

4) Locker for the leader to jug on with a clove hitch. I don't have issues with untying a figure-8 here unless the rope is extra fuzzy, a clove is just faster and easier and lets the follower jug closer to the anchor for getting off the jugs and onto the anchor.

5) An extra locker gets put into the power point in advance if I have it to make life easier for the follower.

The follower should tie backup knots now and then, especially when they are about to start cleaning a traversing section. Never rely on just 2 jugs, and avoid full rope length falls as your back-up.

YMMV.
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
Jun 23, 2016 - 10:45am PT
Jack, have you checked out the How To Big Wall series (incl. videos) at this link: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum_articles.php ? He also has a How To book that I believe would answer most of your (basic aid) questions.

If you are worried about falling the rope length when following, there is this thing called back up knots. Chris Mac mentioned it in his video. Or take the "don't fall" approach.

As for anchor setup, this is what I will be adopting if there are trustworthy anchor bolts:
(source)

P.S. I was typing (slowly) when Moof posted his to-the-point on-topic answers.


jonnyrig

climber
Jun 23, 2016 - 12:22pm PT
Look bro, the procedural bullshit of climbing has a whole slew of valid methodology for f*#king it up and having just enough time to consider it before you splat.

The really difficult thing is going to be convincing all the seasoned pros here that
1. You're not a troll
2. Your question is legit
3. It's worthy of a genuine response
and
4. You're worth climbing with

See, once you bust out with any kind of attitude or (gasp!) vaguely political opinion you get branded as an undesirable d#@&%ebag.
Welcome, brother, to the dark side. We've been expecting you.
Majid_S

Mountain climber
Karkoekstan
Jun 23, 2016 - 11:17pm PT
you see, supertaco aint a place to come and learn on how to set up things. you come here to re-correct the major f*#kup that almost killed you last time
Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
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