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lemon_boy
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 1, 2016 - 11:48am PT
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just curious to see people's opinion, in terms of durability, etc. i currently use a 10mm blue water and it is fine. i was thinking about getting a 100m rope, and there is a massive price difference between the various options. for example, i can find monster 10mm for .80/ft and mammut 10mm for .62/ft. however, the bluewater 10mm and sterling statics are way, way more expensive.
my set up is a microcender on one line and a microtraxion on another line.
thanks.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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For 100m... I'd want low stretch.
That means Sterling HTP static in either 3/8 or 7/16th would do it perfectly.
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WBraun
climber
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my set up is a microcender on one line and a microtraxion on another line.
Two ropes for something this simple?
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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I'd actually stay away from the HTP static for this kind of use. Taking mini traxion falls on the HTP doesn't always feel so great. The lack of stretch is very noticeable and the impact force is definitely higher. I've had thousands of feet of the sterling safety pro which has a higher amount of stretch than most static ropes. Feels a lot nicer to fall on. I believe it is over 4% but I'd need to double check that.
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BAM!
Trad climber
CA
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I use a bluewater dynamic. But my routes aren't that long.
What type of carabiner do you guys use? I've been using a regular pear shaped one, but I feel the potential for crossloading is pretty high with it. I was thinking of getting one with the anti-cross loading bars. Would an Oval biner work well without crossloading?
Also what role is there for a steel biner?
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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I solo-TR all the time and have since the 80s. Personally I see zero need for a static rope...in fact as has been mentioned I think it's a negative for most uses. Yes, out 100m plus it makes sense I guess...otherwise just use your favorite climbing rope, or one you have recently retired from lead use.
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WBraun
climber
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I like static ropes for mintraxion.
But then again I lead on statics too.
Just don't do what I do ever .....
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lemon_boy
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2016 - 07:01pm PT
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cool, thanks for the replies. i usually clove into a piece or two, so i am not worried about a static line stretching too much. i used to just use old regular ropes, but after using the static lines i like that quite a bit better.
my setup varies a bit, depending on the situation. sometimes i just use one line, sometimes two lines.
has anybody used the monster or mammut static rope that you can buy by the foot? i am curious how they hold up compared to the bluewater.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Most of the makers of rope have a line of gym ropes, good wear with some strech.
If you're TRing you shouldnt have much of a fall, so a little strech on a good static should be fine
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lemon_boy
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2017 - 01:30pm PT
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just curious to see if mikeyschaefer or others think a 9mm (petzl push, stats say 9.1mm) is too skinny for their taste. i like the weight, but it is at the limit for a microcender (which i have already had slipping problems with), but well inside the stats for the microtraxion.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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10 mm seems excessive. Eight would do nicely, it's only body weight.
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lemon_boy
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2017 - 11:03am PT
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hmm, it's not really a strength issue though, it is more of an issue of the device being engaged by the rope. the problem with an 8 is that it is well below the allowable rope size for the microcender (minimum is 9). from experience, i know that the microcender is prone to slipping. i had issues with it jugging a fairly wooly 9.8 dymamic rope a while back. i was the 2nd person to jug the rope, and i don't know if the rope stretch effectively reduced the diameter or what the deal was, but the microcender absolutely wouldn't grab the rope. luckily i had a spare prussik...
the 9 is right on the border of allowable, and being new and slippery i am curious how reliably it will grab the rope. i ordered a 2nd microtraxion, so i may switch over to 2 microtraxions when i use this rope. i would definitely much rather use 1 microcender and 1 microtraxion though if possible.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Be a man, Lemon Boy, TR with a clove hitch belay on locker on your harness.
Nothing can go wrong.
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lemon_boy
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2017 - 12:24pm PT
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ha ha, definitely have done that. i tried out the 9mm with the microcender last night and it seemed to grab great. i think i will give it a shot. what could go wrong?
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couchmaster
climber
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I think that as long as you don't run it over an edge and dog on it, any static rope you buy will outlast your desire to hang on it.
At least that's been my experience. The bigger the line, the longer it will last.
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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use 11 mm static to preserve against edges and other abrasions you can't prevent with directionals and rope protectors
stretch is ok but does mean edges will work your line a bit more
also, always fix every 100 - 150 feet for longer sections unless totally straight and steep
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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I have a rope -- Sterling? BlueWater? -- that reportedly is "semi-static", which I interpret to mean more dynamic than static but you sure as hell wouldn't want to whip on it. I use it for solo TR with an unfussy mini-traxion type set-up.
edit (cuz I just read through comments above): I did some solo leading yesterday with a clove on a locker. Man, that was a total hassle. I ended up not dicking with the knot and accepting the slack.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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WBraun
Mar 20, 2015 - 08:17am PT
I led the whole climb (Astroman) on a 11mm static line so that Galen wouldn't have to deal with rope stretch and bounce while jumaring and photographing.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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i am with Mr. Braun on the setup
but to address your question:
Many accomplished cavers who use a lot of static rope agree
this is the most durable, stays easier to handle, does not get fuzzy the way Blu water does, and has no torsional tendency, not likely to twist unless you use an 8 repeatedly.. overall really great cord.
PMI
Pigeon Mountain Industries
best value per dollar in a static rope you would trust.
grabbed this for you:
Customer Service
You can contact PMI by phone, fax, mail or email. Someone from our Customer Service department will respond to you as quickly as possible weekdays 8:30am to 5pm (EST). Please include all pertinent details about your order.
Inside the US:
ph: 800-282-ROPE (7673)
fx: 800-952-3747
Address:
PO Box 803
LaFayette, GA 30728-0803
Email:
custserv@pmirope.com
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