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Art
Mountain climber
Topanga, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 27, 2016 - 01:50pm PT
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Disclaimer: we are based out of SoCal, were one of the first parties in the season, went unguided.
Move in bad weather. People get up, see the weather is iffy and sit in the tent losing time. The right thing is to start moving and turn around if it’s too bad. At least you’ll get some acclimatization. It can get worse, but it can easily get better. Luckily we learned that quickly.
You want to make the God laugh – tell him about your plans. You’ll climb as weather permits, not according to your plans. Seize every opportunity to move up, but don’t get overzealous. 1000-1500 ft/day average is ideal. Going faster you risk AMS, so don’t do single carry camp to camp. It will come around and bite you above 14k.
Forecast is wildly inaccurate. If the weather looks semi-descent – move. After mid-May there is a very good trail, wands a likely. You can easily move in white out.
It is not the coldest thing on Earth. Just here in the lower 48: cold winter in Adirondacks, ice climbing in New Hampshire or winter in Eastern Sierra Nevada could be just as cold. And I’m not talking temperature, I’m talking my subjective perception of cold.
Embrace the cold. “You sweat – you die” (C) If you wait for your buddies to rope up and you are not cold – you will get hot later and will feel like you don’t have enough air, everything is too hard, the pack is too heavy etc. When you are slightly cold while moving, these problems are not that bad. So please, do yourself a favor, don’t wear 8000 dawn parka and pants while moving.
The biggest cold problem is condensation on your sleeping bag. It’s a really good idea to have a cheap thin synthetic bag over your main -100F monster.
Get in the strong wind before the trip. Try out your gear in 40-50 mph winds in cold temps. Just do your winter weekend thing when the forecast is really bad.
You do not need this sh#t. Yes, I mean that extra pair of socks, spare hat, second balaclava and goggles. Whatever you want to have for spare, have one for the team, not one per person. Btw, one roll of TP/climber is enough. Wet ones freeze. I carried, but have not used, goggles, puffy pants, expedition mittens, two pairs of wool socks etc.
You might need proper crampons. Especially early in the season. I took light hiking version and regretted it more than once.
You will not be hungry. Altitude + physical exhaustion kill appetite. We barely ate 2000 Cal/day first week or so.
Test your food system. Put your food in the freezer overnight and see if you still can eat it in the morning. Pick a week and eat your mountain diet at home for the whole week. It would have been a disaster if we had not done that.
Don’t use pot, use kettle. You are not cooking anything anyway. And insulate your bowl and mug really well.
It is a three-week trip. Get yourself a book: you’ll spend some time sitting in your tent.
Don’t freak out. It’s not that bad. It’s not Everest. People have done it 100 years ago with no high tech gear at all.
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Gooney
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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May 27, 2016 - 02:11pm PT
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Good thoughts, Art. Did you summit?
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 27, 2016 - 02:11pm PT
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Oh is that it?
Sweet, here I go.....
Well done though good sir!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 27, 2016 - 02:12pm PT
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Did we get off route?
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Art
Mountain climber
Topanga, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
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Yep, got to the top on May 14.
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 27, 2016 - 02:30pm PT
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^^^Right on!
Only 2 weeks ago, still fresh in your brain then.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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May 27, 2016 - 02:42pm PT
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Good job, Art.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 27, 2016 - 03:58pm PT
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Good suggestions...thanks.
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grover
climber
Castlegar BC
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May 27, 2016 - 04:40pm PT
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Lots of great info.
Thanks and congrats.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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May 27, 2016 - 09:17pm PT
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Solid tips. Congrats on climbing one of the largest mountains on the planet. Beautiful place.
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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May 27, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
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that was cool info. Good job on getting summit. ~Catherine.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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May 27, 2016 - 09:33pm PT
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Thank you. Good stuff to know. Sounds like you trained and were well prepared.
Always good tip to not over prepare as you point out.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 27, 2016 - 10:38pm PT
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hey there say, art... wow, i am not even a climber, but say:
enjoyed this very well...
good job, :)
hey, i loved this:
Test your food system. Put your food in the freezer overnight and see if you still can eat it in the morning. Pick a week and eat your mountain diet at home for the whole week. It would have been a disaster if we had not done that.
home practice works great, for many things...
;)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 27, 2016 - 11:39pm PT
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Good insights. Thx
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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May 30, 2016 - 07:34am PT
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thoughtful remarks. Of these, the "be slightly cold so to mitigate wet clothing from perspiration" is not commonly known but is a key to an enjoyable (not miserable) experience
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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May 30, 2016 - 07:38am PT
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Well done.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 30, 2016 - 08:29am PT
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The food is the reason to climb Denali! :)
Good pointers.
My tip would be to go with aim to summit start of June. Seems like the best time on average.
Eat food you have experience with at high altitude. TASTY food.
+100 to Move in shitty weather on the lower mountain. Can't afford to lose time there.
Acclimate at 14/17K well. Some people rush and get sick. No bueno.
Don't get in over your head and consider the avalanche danger after heavy dumps. If another group is going up the sllope loaded with snow, use your own judgement.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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May 30, 2016 - 08:34am PT
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I think it was Mike Kennedy who wrote "A Guide to Strip Life" in Climbing mag in the late 70's. Hilarious but true. Maybe someone can scan a copy and post it up.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 30, 2016 - 09:28am PT
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Vapor barriers? How about having yer nice quiet tension filled South Face day exploded by two
F-4 Phantoms when they blow through Denali Pass at 300 knots and then light their AB's to
roar down the NE Fork spewing a real chemtrail?
You can't prepare for that mentally or physically!
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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May 31, 2016 - 02:18pm PT
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Good read. Good advice. Though we found the weather forecasts to be generally reliable.
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