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Cl1mber
Trad climber
Dumfries, VA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 30, 2016 - 06:53am PT
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Heading to the the tip next week w a standard free rack and just wondering how imperative recommended offsets, cam hooks, and hangers are? Any beta appreciated.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Apr 30, 2016 - 07:21am PT
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Go up early and camp on the rim the night before. I don't recall that there was any exceptional gear for route but it's been a while. I did use a prusik back up sling for the rappel. It's a long way up, on a single rope and you need to get over the knot.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 30, 2016 - 09:21am PT
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super easy car to car in a day. No fancy gear needed at all. but I did have a 110meter static for the rap in. Standard rack one lead line and the 110meter rope that's it, no hooking. just fun all the way.
me Heinz Zak and my friends on top
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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Apr 30, 2016 - 09:22am PT
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Cl1mber....something big (eg. #4 Camelot) for the wide part above the 510a on P2 off the small ledge. A stick clip can be helpful as well as offsets and hybrid cams for the flaring pin scars. The hike up is fun and casual, no need to spend the night on the rim.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 30, 2016 - 09:26am PT
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No stick clip needed at all, hella lame. First Pitch is hella easy. You can do it in your sleep. again no offset or and fancy gear needed. I guess if your a nervous Nelly and want pro every 3 feet bring a ton of exta what ever you like. lol Remember you gotta carry any unnecessary crap up and down. RURP dude a #4 cam is part of a standard rack lol
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 30, 2016 - 10:02am PT
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Iron Monkey LIVES!
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On-Site Flasher 69
Sport climber
Riverside
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Apr 30, 2016 - 10:31am PT
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Isn't the lost arrow still closed for falcon nesting?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 30, 2016 - 11:03am PT
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We (Brutus, Em and I) used Brutus' rack when we climbed it. He'd brought along a #4 camalot and an "alpine" number 4 as well, which I learned meant a big tricam. Recall that I liked having two pieces in the #4 camalot size range for the lead of the wide pitch, and, remember wishing they'd both been cams (ha ha!). Fun times.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 30, 2016 - 11:09am PT
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Again Standard rack lol.
Wide part is like maybe 10 to 15 feet long. lol
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Apr 30, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
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Std rack and I used a couple hooks.
I led both pitches from the notch and trailed both ropes tied together, creating a big 'U' as we climbed up. When we rigged the Tyrolean, I tied off the rope from the tree so I could unties the ropes, fed the one from the tree through the anchor bolts, and re-tied the ropes. I then pulled the slack out of the rope to the tree and tied a fig-8 and used a locker to secure the rope to itself like you would when rigging the pullcord method for rapelling.
I then attached myself to the rope back to the tree with a mini-traxxion, and a daisy to my ascender. You are basically jugging the rope on your back and it's not easy. You'll want a sling or aid ladder on the ascender and the mini-traxxion will act as a "capture progress device." Once we were back at the tree, I untied the rope from the tree and pulled the rope out of the anchors, leaving no gear behind.
Good luck and have fun!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Apr 30, 2016 - 02:19pm PT
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It has been ages, but way back in the old days we got up it with a standard free rack and a few pins.
The trick is figuring out the tyrolean traverse from the tip back to the rim if you go that route. We fckd it up by pulling the ropes tight. I was screaming like a little girl as I was suspended with all that exposure and basically unable to move. If anyone has thoughts on making that traverse it would probably help this guy.
edit: as stated by others above above, jugging a horizontal line upside down is not easy.
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Cl1mber
Trad climber
Dumfries, VA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2016 - 03:14pm PT
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Thanks everyone, lotsa good beta!
The closure sux (for us) but whataya gonna do.
We got shut down by snow a few years ago, but again whataya gonna do. Guess we're not "gonna die"😉 though (or at least not on the spire).
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Apr 30, 2016 - 03:32pm PT
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Two things--let a bunch of slack out so you do the Tyrolean by rapping off down and then jugging up vertically as much as possible. This is important--If you make your rope too tight it'll be a suffer fest.
Bring a camera for sure!
If you can, try to be the number two guy across-it's the best hero picture ever-I'm looking at me from 30 + years ago and the rugby shirt still looks cool!.
Go up early to camp and party--not because it's a long route but because it's a cool place to be and a fun thing to do
In 79 we were on top and we took the old crappy webbing and replaced it-we retied the loop and frisbee'd it off- The wind took it out about 50 feet and then boomeranged it back and it spun right into our laps--The moral we took was it was impossible to fall off because the wind would return us to the top.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 30, 2016 - 03:53pm PT
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The bird nesting closures were lifted (removed) for Lost Arrow Spire, as of 4/25:
http://www.climbingyosemite.com/peregrine-closure-update-42516/
Here's my photo trip report from 2008 which demonstrates it can be done with just 2 60m ropes:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/685450/Lost-Arrow-Spire-Tip-photo-trip-report-7-22-08
Rack:
2 Red Aliens (or #3 TCUs),
Orange Alien,
two #2 Camalots,
two #3 Camalots (or #3.5 Friends - lighter),
one #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend - lighter),
one #4 Camalot (old/purple),
three small stoppers (as rivet hangers).
One double length sling, ten alpine draws.
No offset cams or hooks needed.
Could bring blue, green, yellow Alien in case some of the fixed pins disappear.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Apr 30, 2016 - 04:26pm PT
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You rap down on a single rope to a big flake, then rap another single rope to the Notch, and secure the end to loose choss.
You jug out of the Notch and leave the two fixed ropes.
Then, you walk back down the Falls trail, and take the shuttle bus to the grocery store. From there, you walk behind Werner's house and up some sandy and slabby terraces to the base of Upper Yosemite Falls. You fill your water bottles there.
Then, you climb Lost Arrow Direct to the top. That 5-inch #4 cam will be nice to have on the third pitch.
You don't need hooks for the headwall pitch above Second Error. The Bathook holes have been retrobolted.
The two fixed ropes provide an easy way to escape the Notch.
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Cl1mber
Trad climber
Dumfries, VA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2016 - 05:04pm PT
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That's great news about the closure - thanks again everyone!
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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Apr 30, 2016 - 05:40pm PT
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Jeffey...A standard rack is to 3," which is why Brian in SLC recommends two #4s. Looks like a selfie stick was a bigger priority for the conceited. Lots more laughs.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Apr 30, 2016 - 06:38pm PT
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If you make your rope too tight it'll be a suffer fest.
I concur completely! That was the hardest work and more scared than I have ever been.
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