Lost Arrow Tip Rack Beta

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 20 of total 24 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Cl1mber

Trad climber
Dumfries, VA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 30, 2016 - 06:53am PT
Heading to the the tip next week w a standard free rack and just wondering how imperative recommended offsets, cam hooks, and hangers are? Any beta appreciated.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Apr 30, 2016 - 07:21am PT
Go up early and camp on the rim the night before. I don't recall that there was any exceptional gear for route but it's been a while. I did use a prusik back up sling for the rappel. It's a long way up, on a single rope and you need to get over the knot.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Apr 30, 2016 - 07:28am PT
It's been a long time but don't recall the need for hooks.
Looks like some find them useful.
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/route_beta.php?r=yblalati

We spent the night at the rim and had the rap ropes set the night before.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Apr 30, 2016 - 09:21am PT
super easy car to car in a day. No fancy gear needed at all. but I did have a 110meter static for the rap in. Standard rack one lead line and the 110meter rope that's it, no hooking. just fun all the way.

me Heinz Zak and my friends on top
rurprider

Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
Apr 30, 2016 - 09:22am PT
Cl1mber....something big (eg. #4 Camelot) for the wide part above the 510a on P2 off the small ledge. A stick clip can be helpful as well as offsets and hybrid cams for the flaring pin scars. The hike up is fun and casual, no need to spend the night on the rim.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Apr 30, 2016 - 09:26am PT
No stick clip needed at all, hella lame. First Pitch is hella easy. You can do it in your sleep. again no offset or and fancy gear needed. I guess if your a nervous Nelly and want pro every 3 feet bring a ton of exta what ever you like. lol Remember you gotta carry any unnecessary crap up and down. RURP dude a #4 cam is part of a standard rack lol
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Apr 30, 2016 - 10:02am PT
Iron Monkey LIVES!
On-Site Flasher 69

Sport climber
Riverside
Apr 30, 2016 - 10:31am PT
Isn't the lost arrow still closed for falcon nesting?
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 30, 2016 - 11:03am PT
We (Brutus, Em and I) used Brutus' rack when we climbed it. He'd brought along a #4 camalot and an "alpine" number 4 as well, which I learned meant a big tricam. Recall that I liked having two pieces in the #4 camalot size range for the lead of the wide pitch, and, remember wishing they'd both been cams (ha ha!). Fun times.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Apr 30, 2016 - 11:09am PT
Again Standard rack lol.
Wide part is like maybe 10 to 15 feet long. lol
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Apr 30, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
Std rack and I used a couple hooks.

I led both pitches from the notch and trailed both ropes tied together, creating a big 'U' as we climbed up. When we rigged the Tyrolean, I tied off the rope from the tree so I could unties the ropes, fed the one from the tree through the anchor bolts, and re-tied the ropes. I then pulled the slack out of the rope to the tree and tied a fig-8 and used a locker to secure the rope to itself like you would when rigging the pullcord method for rapelling.

I then attached myself to the rope back to the tree with a mini-traxxion, and a daisy to my ascender. You are basically jugging the rope on your back and it's not easy. You'll want a sling or aid ladder on the ascender and the mini-traxxion will act as a "capture progress device." Once we were back at the tree, I untied the rope from the tree and pulled the rope out of the anchors, leaving no gear behind.

Good luck and have fun!

skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Apr 30, 2016 - 01:01pm PT
As mentioned earlier, Lost Arrow is closed. Peregrine closure http://www.climbingyosemite.com/2016-peregrine-closures-03012016/

I'd call to verify, but it looks like you will have to delay your LAT date like we had to.

Worth the wait though


Staying the first night was cool too

johntp

Trad climber
socal
Apr 30, 2016 - 02:19pm PT
It has been ages, but way back in the old days we got up it with a standard free rack and a few pins.

The trick is figuring out the tyrolean traverse from the tip back to the rim if you go that route. We fckd it up by pulling the ropes tight. I was screaming like a little girl as I was suspended with all that exposure and basically unable to move. If anyone has thoughts on making that traverse it would probably help this guy.

edit: as stated by others above above, jugging a horizontal line upside down is not easy.
Cl1mber

Trad climber
Dumfries, VA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2016 - 03:14pm PT
Thanks everyone, lotsa good beta!

The closure sux (for us) but whataya gonna do.

We got shut down by snow a few years ago, but again whataya gonna do. Guess we're not "gonna die"😉 though (or at least not on the spire).
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Apr 30, 2016 - 03:32pm PT
Two things--let a bunch of slack out so you do the Tyrolean by rapping off down and then jugging up vertically as much as possible. This is important--If you make your rope too tight it'll be a suffer fest.
Bring a camera for sure!
If you can, try to be the number two guy across-it's the best hero picture ever-I'm looking at me from 30 + years ago and the rugby shirt still looks cool!.
Go up early to camp and party--not because it's a long route but because it's a cool place to be and a fun thing to do

In 79 we were on top and we took the old crappy webbing and replaced it-we retied the loop and frisbee'd it off- The wind took it out about 50 feet and then boomeranged it back and it spun right into our laps--The moral we took was it was impossible to fall off because the wind would return us to the top.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 30, 2016 - 03:53pm PT
The bird nesting closures were lifted (removed) for Lost Arrow Spire, as of 4/25:
http://www.climbingyosemite.com/peregrine-closure-update-42516/

Here's my photo trip report from 2008 which demonstrates it can be done with just 2 60m ropes:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/685450/Lost-Arrow-Spire-Tip-photo-trip-report-7-22-08

Rack:
2 Red Aliens (or #3 TCUs),
Orange Alien,
two #2 Camalots,
two #3 Camalots (or #3.5 Friends - lighter),
one #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend - lighter),
one #4 Camalot (old/purple),
three small stoppers (as rivet hangers).
One double length sling, ten alpine draws.

No offset cams or hooks needed.
Could bring blue, green, yellow Alien in case some of the fixed pins disappear.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 30, 2016 - 04:26pm PT
You rap down on a single rope to a big flake, then rap another single rope to the Notch, and secure the end to loose choss.

You jug out of the Notch and leave the two fixed ropes.

Then, you walk back down the Falls trail, and take the shuttle bus to the grocery store. From there, you walk behind Werner's house and up some sandy and slabby terraces to the base of Upper Yosemite Falls. You fill your water bottles there.

Then, you climb Lost Arrow Direct to the top. That 5-inch #4 cam will be nice to have on the third pitch.

You don't need hooks for the headwall pitch above Second Error. The Bathook holes have been retrobolted.


The two fixed ropes provide an easy way to escape the Notch.
Cl1mber

Trad climber
Dumfries, VA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2016 - 05:04pm PT
That's great news about the closure - thanks again everyone!
rurprider

Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
Apr 30, 2016 - 05:40pm PT
Jeffey...A standard rack is to 3," which is why Brian in SLC recommends two #4s. Looks like a selfie stick was a bigger priority for the conceited. Lots more laughs.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Apr 30, 2016 - 06:38pm PT
If you make your rope too tight it'll be a suffer fest.

I concur completely! That was the hardest work and more scared than I have ever been.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 24 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta