Fillmore, Ca / Sespe area

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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
cbburton

climber
Burbank, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 29, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
Does anyone here climb in that area?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 29, 2016 - 08:51pm PT
Decades back, when GP Iron Works was still happening.

No route descriptions then, it was play as you go, and pretty hot up there in the summer and fall.

Haven't been back since, oh, '75.

Watch for P.O. on the descents if you don't lower or rap off.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Apr 29, 2016 - 09:24pm PT
All the time.

Fun area for once-in-a-while.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/sespe-gorge-black-wall/105796875

Great wall for your tri-cam rack.
cbburton

climber
Burbank, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2016 - 12:59am PT
Thanks for the replies. I'm more interested in the portion of the Sespe Creek just above (North of) Fillmore.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Apr 30, 2016 - 06:59am PT
I have not climbed that area but have kayaked and rafted that stretch, the 30 miles above Filmore. There is a lot of potential up there beyond the Devils Gate area. Large walls on the west side of the canyon that form the Bears Haven butte. The river bed through that area has the largest boulders I have ever seen anywhere, makes for great kayaking but hell if you have to portage. I remember using our kayaks as ladders and bridges on a few of the portages. I'm at the firehouse today or I'd post some pictures.

Access is the main issue, dont use the road on the west side of the river in Filmore to access the canyon, it's private property and the owner getts pretty pissed at folks hiking through his land. There is no easy way into the goods.
James Wilcox

Trad climber
Goleta/Virginia Lakes
Apr 30, 2016 - 07:46am PT
You mean out of Dough Flats?
John M

climber
Apr 30, 2016 - 08:00am PT
Access is the main issue, dont use the road on the west side of the river in Filmore to access the canyon, it's private property and the owner getts pretty pissed at folks hiking through his land. There is no easy way into the goods.

He owns/owned both sides of the river. Its been 25+ years since I have been up in there. I did no climbing. Just hiking, scrambling, and swimming. Most of the time we took the oil field roads on the east side and hiked in from above. No access issues that way.

Goodenough Road to Squaw flat to Dough Flat Trailhead. Then I can't remember if it is an 8 or 10 mile hike to the river. There use to be a warm springs in that area. Bear haven butte is accessible from the Santa Paula area, but its been years since I have been up on top of it and we accessed it through private property which we had permission for. I was not a climber then so did not scope the possibility for dropping in from above. When it rains there are some big waterfalls that come off of bear haven butte. Very pretty and wild area. Also fairly difficult to access, which is why I don't mind giving beta. I could telll the whole world and still there would be few that would go. Its hard to get to, in the summer its very hot and very dry. In winter its wet and damp. Lots of mesquite. Lots of poison oak.
James Wilcox

Trad climber
Goleta/Virginia Lakes
Apr 30, 2016 - 09:19am PT
It's maybe 8 miles to the river from the trailhead. You have to descend some pretty long switchbacks to reach the river the last 1/2 mile. A grunt on the way out. On a hot day the trail could be rather unpleasant, there is pretty much no shade the entire hike.

For bouldering the Swimming Hole is a shorter hike in.
cbburton

climber
Burbank, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2016 - 09:44am PT
Yes, it looks like it's pretty difficult to access that area legally nowadays. After looking at some stuff from the Assessor's Office, I'm surprised at how far up the creek, from Fillmore, it's private property.
John M

climber
Apr 30, 2016 - 09:54am PT
when I lived in Fillmore a few times we got permission to go up the river, but it was rare. For years it was open access, but people went up and camped and trashed the place and the old man who owned it closed it off. I do not know if the same family still owns it. I still know people from Fillmore. I will try to get ahold of them and see what the current situation is. It might take me awhile as I usually see them in Yosemite in the summer.
cbburton

climber
Burbank, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2016 - 10:02am PT
Thanks John. That'd be great. Would you mind shooting me an email at cbburton at gmail?
The lack of easy access certainly is keeping the area clean. From the bottom end up past Devil's Gate, the only piece of trash we managed to find was a single water bottle.
James Wilcox

Trad climber
Goleta/Virginia Lakes
Apr 30, 2016 - 10:15am PT
You used to be able to mountain bike in, but after the condor closure it makes it pretty much an enduro hike if trying to round trip it in one day.
Not a bad hike if the weather is mild. Other than the descent into the canyon at the end it's a pretty flat hike, elevation-wise. But it does weed out the riff raff :)
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Apr 30, 2016 - 10:47am PT
Worked on FEAR FACTOR in Fillmore, they have private Railroad tracks.
Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
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