Travelling with Portaledges

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GazLeah

Big Wall climber

New York

Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 20, 2016 - 08:32am PT

I'm flying to Sao Tome and Principe May 10th with a bunch of gear including 2 portaledges. Anyone have experience flying with them? All beta welcome.

fgw

climber

portland, or

Apr 20, 2016 - 08:47am PT

Cao Grande? Would love to read a report on that.

overwatch

climber

Arizona

Apr 20, 2016 - 08:51am PT

probably can't use carry on

Rockies Obscure

Trad climber

rockiesobscure.com....Canada

Apr 20, 2016 - 09:29am PT

wow what a cool spire that is!

Gagner

climber

Boulder

Apr 20, 2016 - 11:59am PT

I fly with my Metolius ledge often. With the 50 pound weight limit I load it up with gear to get to 49.9 pounds. I use duct tape to tape the top closed. No problems.

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Apr 20, 2016 - 12:08pm PT

Sweet trip!. I've looked at those islands for a long time. Everyone knows about the spire on sao..but there are some interesting looking south facing walls on the south end of principe...hmm.

I have no first hand advice but I would expect extra baggage fees should be you only worries. Perhaps try to combine both ledges into 1 under 50lb bag.

PICTURES or it didnt happen...looks like full on adventure climbing and some amazing beaches as well. Have a fantastic trip and please share.

Gerg

Trad climber

Calgary

Apr 20, 2016 - 12:17pm PT

http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.odisseiasnosmares.com%2F2016%2F01%2Fescalada-do-pico-cao-grande-em-s-tome.html&langpair=pt%7Cen&hl=en

brotherbbock

climber

Alta Loma, CA

Apr 20, 2016 - 01:30pm PT

Climbing the tower is especially dangerous due to the slippery mosses that cover much of the rock, not to mention the snakes that inhabit the needle itself. In addition, a blanket of mist usually cloaks the column resulting from Sao Tome’s abundance of annual rainfall (between 4,500 and 5,000 mm), making the surface as slippery as glass during actual precipitation.

YER

GONNA

SEND!!!!

Good luck looks amazing. Please post when you get back.

Offset

climber

seattle

Apr 20, 2016 - 01:57pm PT

i've had success using a ski bag and also have used a golf bag. the golf bag was great since it had wheels and a lot of extra room for other things. ...and stuff

GazLeah

Big Wall climber

New York

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2016 - 09:56am PT

Back from the trip. Established a new line.

Nubivagant (Wandering in the clouds) 455m, 5.13d/A0 (F8b) ***

A direct line up the steepest part of the giant roof and onto the headwall above. Though equipped as a sport line this is anything but and should be approached with the respect that big wall requires. The majority of the difficulties are located in the first 100m of the route which is a steep overhanging roof, arguably one of the largest in the world with 3 pitches of climbing at grade 5.13b (F8a) or harder. Pulling through the roof, the climbing eases considerably and you just have to hope the tropical storms stay at bay to reach to summit. (Image: Adrian Samsara / adidas Outdoor)

1. Jump from the block to the wall and climb the thin slab to a roof. Pumpy. 9 bolts, 20m 5.12b (F7b)
2. Steep corner with double dynos off the belay (V8) to steady 5.13b (8a) with no rests. 10 bolts, 15m 5.13d (F8b)/A0
3. Wet corner with complex beta and some committing run outs! 11 bolts, 25m 5.13c (F8a+)/A0
4. Dyno off the belay put the roof to a difficult iron cross move that gains ledge. Move across the ledge to some desperate moves that gain the dihedral were climbing eases up. 12 bolts, 30m 5.13b (F8a)/A0
5. Take the blocky face to the slab. 8 bolts, 15m 5.10b(F6a+)
6. A long scramble pitch with some vertical climbing at the midpoint. Run out. 9 bolts, 35m 5.6 (F4c)
7. Another scramble with a tricky exit onto the ledge. 10 bolts, 35m 5.9 (F5)
8. A hard start up steep rock to easy finish. 9 bolts, 25m 5.10c (F6b)
9. Traverse the foot ledge with good hands to a tricky exit. 8 bolts, 20m 5.9 (F5)
10. Hand jam the blocks to a ledge. Walk across and climb the technical face to the chains in the overhanging roof. 9 bolts, 35m 5.10c (F6b)
11. Traverse right and up the gulley to a hard finish on the ledge. 13 bolts, 35m 5.11d (F7a)
12. 11 bolts, 35m 5.12a (F7a+) Traverse right past a loose flake to a overhanging wall and fire up to the gulley.
13. Scramble the corner to a ledge (unprotected) and cross the ledge to a loose wall above. 8 bolts, 30m 5.10c (F6b)
14. Epic finish up the leaning arete with the chains being the crux. 9 bolts, 30m 5.11d (F7a)
15. Mount the rock and mantle into the jungle above. Bushwhack to the summit. 1 bolt, 70m 5.6(F4c) Class IV
R: Make eight, 35m rappels directly down from the anchors at the top of pitch 12.
Equipped/FA: Gareth “Gaz” Leah (UK) and Sergio “Tiny” Almada (Mexico) June 2016

dikhed

climber

State of fugue and disbelief

Jun 28, 2016 - 10:36am PT

no pics...didn't happen

fgw

climber

portland, or

Jun 29, 2016 - 08:44am PT

Looking forward to photos. Probably one of the most incredible looking towers in the world. On a side note, how long of a stick clip do you need to make it go at 5.10A0? :)