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John Galt
Big Wall climber
puerta Natales, Chile
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 10, 2016 - 11:33pm PT
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I keep reading that Yuji did the second Free One Day Ascent of The Salathe, but who did the first?
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Mar 10, 2016 - 11:54pm PT
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TC.....me thinks
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 11, 2016 - 02:38am PT
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Well here's a question. Who is John Galt and why is the route at Smith named after him, the John Galt Line? Fairly casual climbing with one 11c crimpy ball buster move.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 11, 2016 - 06:48am PT
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Some utopian egoist...
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Mar 11, 2016 - 07:09am PT
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Some utopian egoist...
Atlas Shrugged might be the absolutely worst book I've ever read. Just 1200 pages of how perfect a handful of individuals are physically, intellectually, sexually; while the rest of us losers are fat, soft, weak, short, selfish, ignorant and generally stupid.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2016 - 08:39am PT
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With just three hangs, I think Yuji still has the proudest onsight of the greatest rock climb on earth. That was a very Big Day!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 11, 2016 - 10:54am PT
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A three hang onsight? That doesn't sound right, but his ascent is crazy impressive.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 11, 2016 - 10:56am PT
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Gunkie, consider it is fiction trying to make a point, so the characters are extreme examples. One of the points she was making is:
 some people are gifted and work really hard and drive the world forward. These people are not sufficiently appreciated, and in fact are often vilified by the masses who prosper from their contributions to the world. That is messed up!
While making that point, she does neglect the importance of the masses to do all the work that enables the vision and direction of gifted people to be brought to fruition. She confuses the interchangeable nature of individuals in blue-collar jobs with their collective importance in making the world work.
As a result of this neglect and confusion, she does not address the balance required between the "elites" and the masses to keep a stable large-scale civilization. In fact, her what-if scenario is to let the global civilization fail and just let the cherry-picked gifted elites come together to form their own society without being weighed down by people who can't pull their own weight. Then all the masses will figure out how much they need the elites and come groveling back to have these elites lead the world instead of the conniving crony-capitalists that are running the government. But can the utopian hamlet survive with a few hand picked elites? Probably.
But we aren't all born that way. Support of that vision is an abdication of the idea of universal rights. There are no rights except that which we create through our mind and hard work of our body to create something of value which we can trade to get our wants and needs met. It is a nice and compelling idea that seems fair when first encountered. In fact, one might argue that an implication of Ayn Rand's philosophy is that we need government regulation to:
1. protect the sacred right of individuals to use their mind and their body to work hard and create something of value
2. Protect individual's rights to reap the rewards of the value they create
3. Protect against crony capitalists, system manipulators, and back room dealers who accumulate wealth without performing the sacred act of using their mind and body to generate something of value
Some republicans latch onto Atlas Shrugged for the ideal of not being weighed down by others who don't pull their own weight, and distort #2 in my list above. Our country has a strong tradition of self-reliance to tap into for popular support. So this provides a way to convert avarice and gluttony (sins) into virtues by way of recasting them as "self-reliance", and people are happy when they get to sin and be gluttonous and have a license to not feel guilty about it. That is what I see as the main importance of Ayn Rand to the Republican Party.
The irony is that the people who promoted this association are also called out as the crooks in the book- the crony capitalists! The corporate leeches, the hangers-on of government who use their friend circles and bribery to manipulate government actions to satisfy their avarice, all while they gluttonously enjoy a luxurious life without having to work hard and create something of value. The Tea Party group has somewhat shaken this up, but they have failed to distinguish large government that performs an important regulatory role from a wasteful government that facilitates crony capitalism. In pushing for smaller government with less regulatory oversight, Tea Party folks are unwittingly facilitating the same endgame that the corporatists were trying to achieve with the crony capitalism
The idea of individuals reaping the reward of the value they create is an interesting one I still struggle with- I can make arguments on either side. Should I be paid 100x more than my colleagues if I write software to automate what they did with 100 people? How am I able to do that? I depend on those people, because their income and taxation funded my education and created the company that pays my salary, and gave me the time and ideas and awareness of a problem to be able to fix it. We are not as isolated and self-reliant as we like to believe. The threads of interdependency run so deep in our society that we risk losing that society if we ignore it. A company can't make profits if the people are too poor to buy the products. Debt can prolong the death of an imbalanced system, but not prevent it.
So folks may disagree vehemently about the values and perspectives in Atlas Shrugged, but I think it has an ambitious scope and an extremely important role for stimulating constructive thought and conversations about the relationship between individuals and government and business. It gets us closer to answers about our most pressing political and civilization questions today.
Holy LEB thread hijacking batman!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Mar 11, 2016 - 11:50am PT
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NutAgain! -- It sucked. I didn't even waste my time reading your blather.
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couchmaster
climber
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Mar 11, 2016 - 12:12pm PT
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^^^ This John Galt, if that's who you mean Studly, is a fairly well known speed climber who holds the current Nose speed record and has more one day ascents of the Nose than anyone in the world. LOL I believe. You can tell the great climbers, they don't post much. Re Studlys: "Well here's a question. Who is John Galt...."
Hey Studly, was out hiking the other day and afterwards my wife made me go to your store. Did you know that theres a pair of radically underpriced near perfect size 8 blue Royal Robbins Galiber climbing shoes in the basement with a $20 price tag on it? Mrs Couchmaster takes a dim view of my crap collecting habits so I let them be.....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 11, 2016 - 01:05pm PT
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6th FA (his 2nd) - Tommy Caldwell, 5/28/02
probably used Alex Huber's variations.
no falls
first one-day free ascent
19.5 hours, including a 3 hour nap at The Block, allowing the pitches above to cool off.
preparation: worked the Headwall a few days prior, plus his 1999 free ascent.
partner: Beth Rodden
7th FA (his 2nd) - Yuji Hirayama, 9/19/02
used Alex Huber's variations, as before.
no falls
second one-day free ascent
13 hours
used a 70 meter rope to link multiple pitches -
one pitch from Sois le Toit ledge to the stance at the lip of the roof.
one pitch from the lip to Long Ledge (linking 3 5.13 pitches from the Skinner topo into one)
12th FA - Alex Honnold, 5/09
used Alex Huber's variations
one fall, near the top of the linked headwall pitches
(third one-day free ascent)
8 hours
climbed with Sean Leary; much of the route was simulclimbed;
tried to enchain with Half Dome, but it rained up there
from
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/longhf.htm#salathe
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 11, 2016 - 01:18pm PT
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one pitch from the lip to Long Ledge (linking 3 5.13 pitches from the Skinner topo into one)
8 hours
climbed with Sean Leary; much of the route was simulclimbed;
tried to enchain with Half Dome, but it rained up there
WOAH Impressive
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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May 22, 2016 - 09:36pm PT
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bump
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 22, 2016 - 10:30pm PT
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12th FA - Alex Honnold, 5/09
used Alex Huber's variations
one fall, near the top of the linked headwall pitches
(third one-day free ascent)
8 hours
climbed with Sean Leary; much of the route was simulclimbed;
tried to enchain with Half Dome, but it rained up there
FRICK'IN BAD AZZ MAN!! These guys were hualin ass ANTICIPATING HalfDome before sunrise!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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May 23, 2016 - 06:08am PT
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Yeah, Blue, I read that stuff and scratch my head. Alien life forms, of course. Might as well be! Elite performance is pretty darn elite. It's right there in the name.
BAd
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 23, 2016 - 06:16am PT
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If Ayn Rand had put as much thought into her book as Nutjob put in discussing the ideas tha it brought up, ideas that she pretty much abandoned in her hero worship of the elites and Strawman slagging of the ' others', Atlas shrugged might have. Become a book worth not skipping whole passages of redundant pure ego!
The climbing in this thread is cool too.
That particular John Galt went to the same high school
I did.....
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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May 23, 2016 - 07:05am PT
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There must be a relativity effect with Alex's climbing. Time slows down so his 8 hours equates to 15 hours for other top climbers.
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weezy
climber
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May 23, 2016 - 12:18pm PT
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I thought Jim Herson did the first one day free ascent?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 23, 2016 - 01:24pm PT
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I thought Jim Herson did the first one day free ascent? Jim's free ascent was 2 days.
He has also climbed it not completely free in a day many times.
8th FA - Jim Herson, 7/3-4/03
used original Skinner-Piana pitches
climbed to base of Headwall on 7/3; Headwall pitches were too hot, so he aided to the top. Rappelled back in on 7/4 and redpointed the Headwall to the top.
preparation: many ascents over several years
partner: Hans Florine
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