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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 23, 2015 - 09:55pm PT
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I was finding some links to old threads about the first accent of the nose and the fifty year reunion.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=642195&tn=0&mr=0
there is lots of great stuff there.
From some of the letters, it seems some one made the first four stove legs , and Rich Calderwood made three more. At one point all 7 were dropped from the East Face of Washington coulum where after two hours of searching they found the rack with all seven of the original stove legs.
There were lots of pitons that recreated these , but these were the originals.
Can any one say where all seven of the original Stovelegs are today?
There were stories of loaning them out with other historical items for various events and venue's, and not having them returned.
I wonder if in the collective knowledge of the Super Topo , we can account for all of these pitons.
Who made the first ones?
I believe one, is still missing,,
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 24, 2015 - 02:43am PT
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The answers are mostly in the thread you linked.
At least three of the Stoveleg pitons are visible in this photo, probably on the Nose
(since they are in pretty good condition here).
2 are on lower left between hammer and bolt hangers.
1 is on upper right, left of the drill.
Frank Tarver made the first 4 of 7 Stoveleg pitons in 1956
1. Warren Harding 1958-1970?
Roger Derryberry 1971/72?
Yosemite Climbing Association ??-now (photo indicates YCA has at least 2 of the Tarver Stovelegs,
since the above photo does not match Steve Grossman's 2008 photos below)
2. Warren Harding 1958-1970?
Roger Derryberry 1971/72?
3. Warren Harding 1958-1970?
Steve Grossman's 2008 photos
4. Warren Harding 1958-2000 (2000 = 2 years prior to his death)
Frank Tarver 2000-2008
Yosemite Climbing Association 2008-now
Rich Calderwood made the last 3 of 7 Stoveleg pitons in 1957
5. Rich Calderwood 1958-1962? (1962? = early 1960s, before 1965)
dropped in a crack on Foott's Folly 1962? - 1973
retrieved from crack - Tom Rohrer 1973-1996
Yosemite Climbing Association 1996-now
6. Rich Calderwood 1958-1962?
George Whitmore 1962-now?
7. Rich Calderwood 1958-1965? (1965? = mid 1960s)
North Face store collection 1965? - 1969? (1969? = before 1971)
Yvon Chouinard 1969? - now?
Royal Robbins (on loan for AAC meeting) 1972
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 24, 2015 - 06:45am PT
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I love this stuff...
At its best, ST is an amazing collection of long "institutional knowledge."
I have an old ring pin I pulled out of Serenity Crack years ago, and need to find it (it's somewhere in my piles of old gear). I'm sure someone on here would be able to identify who made it, and probably even who placed it.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Dec 24, 2015 - 07:54am PT
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one pin to rule them all
and in the darkness bind them
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 24, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
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Why did the stove only have seven legs
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Dec 24, 2015 - 03:22pm PT
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Classic! Thanks, Clint!
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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2015 - 03:38pm PT
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Clint, thanks for the info. Let me see if I have this straight.
Of the four Tarver pins
1) In YCA collection, who donated this one? Location YCA
2) Possibly kept by Harding, Location Unknown
3) Possibly in Rodger Derryberry's collection. Is this confirmed?
Location unconfirmed.
4)Warren Harding to Frank Tarver, to YCA 2008 Location YCA
For the three Calderwood pins
1) Recovered by Tom Rohrer 1973 YCA 1996 Location YCA
2) George Whitmore. Does he still have it? Location unconfirmed
3)North Face collection to Chouinard to Robbins for AAC meeting
Location Unknown
Does that sound right. I believe George Whitmore is still alive. I wonder if some one can confirm he still has one?
There are people here who have been in contact with Rodger Derryberry, and visited his place. Lauria, Boodog, can anyone confirm he has one of the original Tarver pins?
The North Face , Robbins one. I wonder if Royal has any memory of this.
It was on a presentation board so I doubt it would have been thrown out.
It must be sitting in a box somewhere.. would be cool to find it.
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Steve Gorham
Trad climber
ft collins CO
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Nov 11, 2018 - 04:56pm PT
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I know this a ridiculously old thread, but I have one of the original Stove leg pitons as well as 2 of Warrens hammers and 2 Jumars and one of his original hemp ropes. I also the only remaining bat tent and his haul bag from the Dawn wall. It was given to a friend by Warren when he lived in Moab. I am currently looking for a home for the stuff where it will be appreciated. I can post pictures of all the stuff and have a number of letters vouching for its authenticity. Authentic in that it came from Warren, I am not 100% clear on which routes the equipment was used. It is also in a 4x5 Mahogany case
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Nov 12, 2018 - 08:29am PT
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Great to see that display again. A stoveleg would be the ultimate addition to my collection, but as it was offered (to purchase) before it was way out of what I could afford.
The story of the stovelegs is what started me collecting....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 12, 2018 - 08:36am PT
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Two to the dwarf lords
Two to the elves
Two were split between hobbits and humans
One to the great god entropy...
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Nov 12, 2018 - 09:02am PT
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I have contact info for George Whitmore and Roger Derryberry, so I will make inquires...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 12, 2018 - 11:57am PT
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Roots
I have a long winded Email sitting in 'drafts' waiting to send to you.
I had hoped for a few things to all come together, that have not.
The main thing was to get permission to go take photos at the site, the falls in Paterson Nj.
The person now involved with High-angle rescue instruction for the NJ state police, and many others,
has tried once, we were hoping that we would be allowed to hang a flag In honor of veterans for veterans day, that has not occured.
I have not been back to Paterson in years. The National Historic site/ Monument, status of the place demands I tread carefully.
I'm all but sure that my anchor is still in place, I hope to try again to go over Thanksgiving.
Without a picture of the rusted relic, the sister of that "stove-leg"
will be a hard to believe oddity
Given the weight of these, the cost of shipping seems prohibitive.
As I mentioned somewhere, my father, saved 2 almost pristine railroad spikes that are examples of the ones I used and are still in situ out at Gertrude's Nose In Minnewaska state park an area where climbing is & has been 'verboten' but, you can bet, seeing it, clambering of all kinds does occur there.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Nov 12, 2018 - 02:53pm PT
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GOD -
Thank you for thinking of me. Please send 'the long winded email' whenever it's ready...
"Awesomeness of the taco persists"
-God
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bookie
climber
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Nov 12, 2018 - 07:25pm PT
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Mailing heavy steel items like climbing gear can actually be very cheap. The US Post Office has several sizes of Flat Rate Priority Envelopes and boxes with an absurdly high weight limit, 70 pounds.
Their envelopes cost only $6.70 or $7.25 postage for the padded ones, and can hold many pitons, which of course should be taped and padded so they do not cut through the envelopes. 70 lb limit. You can double the envelopes up, put one inside another, for extra padding.
The Medium Box, aka the shirt box, would hold 3-4 copies of Fifty Classic Climbs, and costs only $13.65, also 70 Lb limit.
The large box, also their Game Box (like for Monopoly sets) costs $18.90 and also had a 70 lb limit. The Game Box would hold several sets of Monopoly it's so large.
You can order them on USPS.com for free.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 15, 2018 - 09:24am PT
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Steve,
I also have a spare Bat Tent from the WOTEML and 3 of Warren's hammers (already posted a photo) left to me by Kyle Copeland.
Similar home concerns.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Nov 15, 2018 - 10:32am PT
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Price for the Mahogany case and its contents?
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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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because it was a lucky number
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