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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 9, 2015 - 08:59pm PT
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Do we really need to name names?
This is just way too special not to cross post...
Pavel Burov (from MP): This "no retrobolting" point has become kind of dogmatic.
There are lot of routes in Yosemite were developed under influence of strong psychoactive substances. Some of them are equipped with inadequate fixed protection which cannot be fixed under the "no retrobolting" dogma. Some of those routes follow natural aesthetic lines created by nature.
Modern climbers are not homeless drug addicts. They have full time job and go out for climbing on weekends. They climb hard because of discipline, training schedule, acquired skills, and fit level. Sticky rubber and ultralight gear add some magic too. They climb hard because of following safety routines and obeying rules, not because of climbing being way beyond the term "under influence".
Yes, there is a local rule "no retrobolting". And there is a solid rationale behind the rule. Although there is a solid rationale against it. Tempora mutantur, rules change. And "absolutely no retrobolting" rule is one to be at least reviewed.
Just in case. This is not to be considered as a support of Erik's retrobolting. Today Yosemite policy is "no retrobolting". Till this policy is on, no retrobolting is tolerated.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Hook. Line. Sinker.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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The hallucinations and convulsive symptoms caused by ergotism may have been
the basis for the accusations of witchcraft that lead to the Salem witch trials.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Yosemite policy is "no retrobolting". Till this policy is on, no retrobolting is tolerated.
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Lurkingtard
climber
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The Fish is on a roll.
Edit:
~~~
;-)
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Nov 10, 2015 - 06:26am PT
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So...today's climbers are worse than homeless drug addicts?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2015 - 07:02am PT
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On average?
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Nov 10, 2015 - 08:48am PT
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bolts placed on acid by stonedmasters are best bolts ever placed.
fact.
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covelocos
Trad climber
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Nov 10, 2015 - 08:56am PT
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*Hoodwink
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 10, 2015 - 08:58am PT
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So old skool hippy climbers under the influence are better, stronger, braver, more head space controlled than "modern" climbers with sticky rubber, training regimens, ultralight gear and jobs??
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Nov 10, 2015 - 10:40am PT
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Man, I can totally see this. Drop a 4 way of window pane and go up that wall like friggin Gollum himself.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 10, 2015 - 10:44am PT
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If routes established thusly are over yer head, feed it, and lead it.
Well said, Kevin!
John
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RyanD
climber
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Nov 10, 2015 - 11:27am PT
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Nov 10, 2015 - 08:58am PT
So hippy climbers under the influence are better, stronger, braver, more head space controlled than climbers with sticky rubber, training regimens, ultralight gear and jobs??
I fixed it for u survival, this old vs modern climber bullshit is weaksauce. Lots of younger climbers still get high and run it out and sleep in a box. They just don't post on supertopo.
Lots of ppl also like to go climb and have fun but fear the reaper for whatever reason. Same as it ever was, only dif is there's more climbers collectively now.
Either way who cares, just tell me about the drugs. That's what this is about.
I would love to hear more about microdosing and climbing.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Nov 10, 2015 - 11:31am PT
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Microdosing? So you don't want to hear about the products of macrodosing.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 10, 2015 - 11:36am PT
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Thanks for the link Ryan.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 10, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
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I believe this was the rationale for retrobolting some routes, including Phosphorescent Flow, at The Needles. Screwed up some pretty good climbs. Not every climb is for every climber.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 10, 2015 - 04:50pm PT
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^^^&^&^^^
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 10, 2015 - 05:03pm PT
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This begs the question, do we need guide books with psychoactive drug pairings, similar to wine and beer pairings for food?
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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Nov 10, 2015 - 06:37pm PT
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Jesus! Make up some rules and then believe in them and follow them unfailingly! What are you, some kind of non-conformist, or something?
Pave those neural pathways a little deeper oh ye enlightened humans :-)
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