Developed under influence of strong psychoactive substances

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healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 9, 2015 - 08:59pm PT
Do we really need to name names?


This is just way too special not to cross post...

Pavel Burov (from MP): This "no retrobolting" point has become kind of dogmatic.

There are lot of routes in Yosemite were developed under influence of strong psychoactive substances. Some of them are equipped with inadequate fixed protection which cannot be fixed under the "no retrobolting" dogma. Some of those routes follow natural aesthetic lines created by nature.

Modern climbers are not homeless drug addicts. They have full time job and go out for climbing on weekends. They climb hard because of discipline, training schedule, acquired skills, and fit level. Sticky rubber and ultralight gear add some magic too. They climb hard because of following safety routines and obeying rules, not because of climbing being way beyond the term "under influence".

Yes, there is a local rule "no retrobolting". And there is a solid rationale behind the rule. Although there is a solid rationale against it. Tempora mutantur, rules change. And "absolutely no retrobolting" rule is one to be at least reviewed.

Just in case. This is not to be considered as a support of Erik's retrobolting. Today Yosemite policy is "no retrobolting". Till this policy is on, no retrobolting is tolerated.
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Nov 9, 2015 - 09:06pm PT
Hook. Line. Sinker.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 9, 2015 - 09:36pm PT
The hallucinations and convulsive symptoms caused by ergotism may have been
the basis for the accusations of witchcraft that lead to the Salem witch trials.
RyanD

climber
Nov 9, 2015 - 10:19pm PT


http://www.highexistence.com/microdosing-lsd-psychedelic/
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Nov 9, 2015 - 10:40pm PT
Yosemite policy is "no retrobolting". Till this policy is on, no retrobolting is tolerated.
Lurkingtard

climber
Nov 9, 2015 - 10:47pm PT
The Fish is on a roll.




Edit:



~~~






;-)


HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Nov 10, 2015 - 06:26am PT
So...today's climbers are worse than homeless drug addicts?
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2015 - 07:02am PT
On average?
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Nov 10, 2015 - 08:48am PT
bolts placed on acid by stonedmasters are best bolts ever placed.

fact.
covelocos

Trad climber
Nov 10, 2015 - 08:56am PT
*Hoodwink
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 10, 2015 - 08:58am PT
So old skool hippy climbers under the influence are better, stronger, braver, more head space controlled than "modern" climbers with sticky rubber, training regimens, ultralight gear and jobs??

John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
Nov 10, 2015 - 10:40am PT
Man, I can totally see this. Drop a 4 way of window pane and go up that wall like friggin Gollum himself.


JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Nov 10, 2015 - 10:44am PT
If routes established thusly are over yer head, feed it, and lead it.

Well said, Kevin!

John
RyanD

climber
Nov 10, 2015 - 11:27am PT

Nov 10, 2015 - 08:58am PT
So hippy climbers under the influence are better, stronger, braver, more head space controlled than climbers with sticky rubber, training regimens, ultralight gear and jobs??


I fixed it for u survival, this old vs modern climber bullshit is weaksauce. Lots of younger climbers still get high and run it out and sleep in a box. They just don't post on supertopo.

Lots of ppl also like to go climb and have fun but fear the reaper for whatever reason. Same as it ever was, only dif is there's more climbers collectively now.


Either way who cares, just tell me about the drugs. That's what this is about.


I would love to hear more about microdosing and climbing.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Nov 10, 2015 - 11:31am PT
Microdosing? So you don't want to hear about the products of macrodosing.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 10, 2015 - 11:36am PT
Thanks for the link Ryan.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 10, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
I believe this was the rationale for retrobolting some routes, including Phosphorescent Flow, at The Needles. Screwed up some pretty good climbs. Not every climb is for every climber.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Nov 10, 2015 - 04:50pm PT
^^^&^&^^^
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 10, 2015 - 05:03pm PT
This begs the question, do we need guide books with psychoactive drug pairings, similar to wine and beer pairings for food?
rbord

Boulder climber
atlanta
Nov 10, 2015 - 06:37pm PT
Jesus! Make up some rules and then believe in them and follow them unfailingly! What are you, some kind of non-conformist, or something?

Pave those neural pathways a little deeper oh ye enlightened humans :-)
Messages 1 - 20 of total 38 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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