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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 24, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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Long live Xavar Bongard
Read the article thanks..
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Oct 25, 2015 - 05:25pm PT
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Thanks for posting, MungeClimber (Rob). It was a fun interview!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Oct 25, 2015 - 05:59pm PT
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Wonderful and enlightening interview!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Oct 25, 2015 - 06:01pm PT
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Great stuff!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Oct 25, 2015 - 09:26pm PT
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Great share, thanks!
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 25, 2015 - 09:31pm PT
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Good stuff as usual John.
Hope you're doing good ......
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2015 - 09:57pm PT
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real deal climbing there.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Oct 28, 2015 - 03:13am PT
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Thanks for all the good words! Cheers
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Oct 28, 2015 - 05:45am PT
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My fingers get cold reading the interview. Fine work John.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Oct 28, 2015 - 08:00am PT
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radness!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Oct 28, 2015 - 09:42am PT
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Classic John. I sure miss Arapiles. What a time it would be in the Pines watching your slide show on the water tower! Had my kids there in 2008 and no better place in the world to take them on multi-pitch climbs, sitting at the belays watching mobs of kangaroos down below.
Arne
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Oct 28, 2015 - 12:55pm PT
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You're an inspiration John. I remember reading your account of Trango of your website and thinking it was the most badass adventure I'd ever heard of, and it will continue to motivate me to seek my limits.
Araps was my home crag before I moved to Squamish, and you bumped into some of my mates when you were there. My good buddy, a pom named Chris was camped next to you and you gave him a heading lesson a few weeks ago in prep for our ascent of the Pacific Ocean Wall next spring. He was a little star struck!
Cheers, Nick
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Oct 28, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
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Duece,
I just wanted to chime in here; although I could send you a private email.
We met once at an AAC event; where you gave a slide show, in Weston,MA. You will always cherish your climbing experiences, but believe me, wait till your grand-kids arrive. You will cherish them more.
I've always wanted to visit the Trango Towers. It's nice to dream!
I might add, my son has a PHD in ME from UPENN.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Oct 28, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
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Fish boy, Chris is quite the camp fixture in the Pines. Always up with a good story, he definitely helped make the camp scene a fun place. Good luck on the PO, one of my favourite routes on the big stone--so much history, cool places to be. I climbed it with Werner in 4 days, all communication done with rope tugs! You probably won't need to place copperheads, but good to have.
Steve A--didn't we go climbing after that event at Crow Hill? I think it was with Mark and a couple others. Super cool your son is climbing, hoping my son will drag me up a big wall some day!
Cheers
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Uli Biaho Tower Retweeted foto on internet ...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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^^^looks like European Alps somewhere?
(don't think that is Uli Biaho! but I might be wrong--never been on top--how was the photo taken?)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2018 - 12:45pm PT
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Just got a chance to listen to this on my first training run of 2018...
https://enormocast.com/?powerpress_pinw=2865-podcast
Highlights:
-The 80s as a 'quiet' time of big walls?
-The South Face incident as crystallizing the moment of hardening ledge design.
-Great Trango pivotal example of capsule big wall style and the logistics of walls.
-The 'aid rant' - and keeping your sh#t together.
-setting hard aid climbing aside. where do you go from there?
-d4 and the future
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jan 14, 2018 - 09:54pm PT
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Thanks MungeClimber for the good words.
Another recent interview specific to portaledge history:
http://www.bigwalls.net/portaledgeHistory.html
By the way, it is deuce (not duece), my Grant Hiskes given nickname. I was luckier than many with the valley nickname! Came from Middendorf—> Düsseldorf—> Deuce. The Deuce4 came later after CC3 found out I was born the IV. Hence the new design name D4.
Also by the way, limited edition D4 t-shirts available here: http://www.bigwallgear.com/d4-swag.html#!/. I am planning to give all proceeds to the Bridwell recovery fund this month.
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