Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 2, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
|
Mine was an old #3 Friend, up on Doggie Deviations. Most other falls were on a variety of different chocks, smallest there was a #4 stopper. Others were on pitons.
Post 'em up!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
A number 1 Wild Country, I think?
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
Off the top of my head: #3 Crack N Up, #2 BD stopper, #3 Ballnut (lots of times), #0 Metolius, #2 Titon, and a few times on somewhat less than bomb natural pro.
|
|
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
|
|
Two big wingers on to purple c3- one of them close to factor 0.5. cammy widgets are amazing
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
30 footer on a number 1 LoweBall and a 20 or so footer on a number 2 WC Zero.... totally forgot how many times a Beak has saved my ass!
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
old style 000# TCU on a 12 foot daisy chain fall. 6' custom Yates Daisy's
|
|
TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
|
I've seen two falls (and held one)where #1-#0 TCUs were blown apart. Not spectacularly long falls either.
Both times the leader was a big guy.
The princess used to take repeated falls on #00s no problem.
There's a big difference between 200lb hitting like a sack of cement and 100lb sorta graceful plunge.
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
|
Reason I bring this up---planning to buy some of the #0, #00, and #000 Metolius cams for an upcoming trip. I've never used any cams that small before, and always want to "save my ass."
Edit: I'm more like a 200 pound sack of cement these days, not the 175 pounder I was BITD.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID or the fricken Bakken, variously
|
|
Roger, I fell 100 + on a 0.
|
|
Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
60 feet onto a tied-off/half-nailed-in baby angle near the top of the Shield headwall. It had some cam force that somehow held it in.
|
|
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
25-footer on a black alien. 10-footer on a 00 Metolius. Probably will be whipping on a 000 Metolius at some point in the future. Sh#t is bomber!
|
|
TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
|
Eye opening calculator to play with.
http://junkfunnel.com/fallforce/
A 100 kg climber, (not to hard to do if you are around 200 lb and count the rack and maybe approach shoes too)
8% elongation rope (Softest available)
10m of rope out
3m fall (only 1.5m out from piece)
Generates almost the rated (5kn)strength of the #1 and #0 TCUs, 4.8kn
A 50 kg climber can take a 30' whipper and generate about the same load.
|
|
MikeMc
Social climber
|
|
Short painful 12 foot slab grind onto a 00 TCU.
I learned a lot about falling on slabs (don't) and trusting my placements.
|
|
Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
|
|
Blue Alien for me. It was mangled afterwards and has never been the same.
Also caught a partner on a Blue-Black Alien, which faired a little better.
Both were aid falls, so not very long.
|
|
overwatch
climber
|
|
10 footer or so on the smallest TCU
|
|
Aya K
Trad climber
Boulder, CO!
|
|
00 TCU.. many times... only fixed one of em!
|
|
Degaine
climber
|
|
I've taken mid-sized whippers on a yellow alien and a bd#3 stopper.
|
|
Bill Mc Kirgan
Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
|
|
#2/yellow C3.
PushMi, Pull-Yu 5.6 at Devil's Lake
> East Bluff - East Rampart
> Bill's Buttress
It was his second placement in the first 15 feet of the climb. He fell on it as he started climbing above it. As he fell I braced for the C3 to fail sending him a foot further to the stopper below, and fully expecting his feet to hit me about the head and shoulders. When I looked up he was hanging there off the yellow c3 with a big grin, and then continued climbing.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
30 footer with probably 90 feet of rope out onto a perfect blue alien. Apparently this was one alien that was not missing the silver brazing.
Blew about 1/2 the screamer I had clipped to it.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!