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| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2015 - 08:44am PT
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Another of Charlie and Eric's Classic.
Had the pleasure of getting on it some five times. Once solo. The fourth we did a buttload of anchor clean-ups with new RAWLS etc for G Barnes and the ASCA. Actually left some of the solid original DA's that are hopefully still there.
Post up your adventures on this uber Arches Classic.....
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Thanks Chief, F*#king awesome...
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2015 - 10:10pm PT
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Let's go... Bump.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 11, 2015 - 10:56pm PT
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Old school 5.4 is no joke, I tell ya!
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Sep 11, 2015 - 11:10pm PT
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Jody that's pretty funny:-)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 11, 2015 - 11:57pm PT
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You know Crusher and Todd have climbed it...
Fill us in on some details The Chief.
Looks amazing.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 12, 2015 - 08:25am PT
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I'm having a tough time wrapping my head around 5.4 C3... RPs tipped out of ripples in a slab? Steep walk-up with no pro? More pictures required :)
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2015 - 08:48am PT
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Simple.. drive on up to Arches and get on the thang.
Pictures?
Picture this:
You'll find the 5.4 Old Skool imo (I read now that it has been upgraded to 5.6) sugar slab section with little usable features on the initial 30-40 foot tension traverse/cross over left into the rt facing 1/2"- 1.5" corner with two totally blown out C-N-Up/Beak holes for pro that won't do a damn thing if you peel, all off the P3 stance starting out on P4. The FAists and some actually pendi on this section. Fk that. Not off them 40mm grenade blown out shet sugar holes. As I recall, TTing this allowed the Beaks to remain in place due to the lateral pressure on them. Any vertical pressure placed on them would quickly pop them out. Back cleaning this section is a must as shown in this photo:
(Notice the blown HB #8 Offset at the only solid hand placed Beak placement)
This being the Crux of the route imo. As it was for the two different partners I did the route with. Imagine doing it solo.....
EDIT: Some may differ with me and state that the 5.4 section is the start.
The shot below is one of my favs. This particular trip up ZE we replaced the old DA's that were shet and put in some nice fat 6" X 3/8" 5 Piece Rawls and Met Rap Hangers at 4 of the stances.
And the View... Oh it was the best seat in the Park.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 12, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
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Horrendous is the first word that pops into my mind on that traverse.
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
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Fk that "horrendous" stuff.
It's a blast! Gets your sphincter twitching a tad bit actually.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Sep 12, 2015 - 02:09pm PT
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With modern gear and the new bolts it is pretty casual. C2 at the most. Totem cams has made the blown out pods on the third pitch much easier. The key for the fourth pitch is now a large hook.
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
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Hey J-Mac... any new holes on the start of P4??? The ones I had over 15 years ago were so fked up and blown. I thought about re-drilling two new ones but then
retro-ing anything is not my gig.
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apoet
Sport climber
AZ
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Nov 17, 2016 - 01:55pm PT
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BUMP. Anyone get on this recently?
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| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
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