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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 26, 2015 - 11:46am PT
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I just received word from Joe McKeown that Mort Hempel died on Monday.
He was one of several icons for the golden age of Yosemite climbing, better known for his beautiful guitar playing and gentle song lyrics than his early climbing in the Valley. No Bay Area climbing party of the era was complete without him.
RIP
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couchmaster
climber
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Aug 26, 2015 - 11:51am PT
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He had a good run, thanks for sharing. The worst part of the old timers stepping into the void is that all of us left behind now take one step closer to the same.
Best to Morts family and friends.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 26, 2015 - 11:53am PT
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I got to meet him in 1972, which was after his prime as a climber, but he was an interesting man. Besides, he was on the first ascent of both the Crack of Doom and the Split Pinnace Lieback, which were two of Yosemite's earliest 5.10's.
Rest in peace, good sir.
John
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 26, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
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The light goes dim and we gather round
A campfire grim with a sweet old sound
Mort's playing a tune by the light of the moon
Pay attention, old man, you'll be singing it soon
Have another brew and another or two
As night draws down it will come to you
5.10, let's adjourn to the Circus Room.
Condolence to all the rest of you who knew Mort,
And thanks for the news, Guido and Jan.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 26, 2015 - 12:46pm PT
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I met Mort a few times in the late 60's early 70's in the Tetons. Love the route he put up with YC....the Snaz.
Sad to learn of his passing.
His final trip.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 26, 2015 - 12:57pm PT
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Sounds like Mort had a great life.
Condolences to family & friends.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 26, 2015 - 01:38pm PT
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Sad to have lost another!
RIP
Peace
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 26, 2015 - 02:35pm PT
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I have written about Mort in my book. He and I were good friends. He lived with me in Boulder for about half a year as we got him settled and into his own place. He and I recorded a lot of music together, and we made a really fun tape of two pirates talking on the bow of a ship.... I rode the freights to California in the late '60s to see a girl friend and stayed at Mort's place. When I arrived at his door my face was black with train soot. He thought he had seen a ghost. Mort and I did a few climbs, one with Pratt, up the Left Side of Reed. And I took Mort climbing in Eldorado a few times. His life was a hard struggle, but with boundless riches, and we all loved him. He was in a care facility in Boulder at the end, where I last visited him....
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Aug 26, 2015 - 02:41pm PT
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Sorry to hear of his passing. I met him in the late 60's when he stayed at Pratt's site in camp 4. Great guitar player for sure. He had some problems at the time but was super cool and an interesting guy. He will be remembered.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Aug 26, 2015 - 02:45pm PT
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Any friend of Guido and Jan is a friend of mine, especially a musician.
I just lost my father in law Saturday night, so I'm very in touch with deep loss right now.
Rest easy Mort, we'll take it from here, as best we can.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 26, 2015 - 04:01pm PT
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^^^^^^
That's a great little piece of writing. :-)
RIP Mort. Belay off.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 26, 2015 - 04:06pm PT
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My sincere condolences to Mort's family and friends...
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Aug 26, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
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He was a great man. Met him in Boulder at a few music venues. Very nice unassuming character who was a great guitar player. Talked with him about the " Crack of Doom " route. Glad I have done the route as it gave me insight to his character. R.I.P. Mort
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John Morton
climber
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Aug 26, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
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The spelling is Hempel.
For some reason his image is frozen in my mind wearing a yellow sweater, on the Berkeley campus around 1962, looking dashing and handsome, almost Ivy League. A bright, intriguing and creative guy.
I last saw him in the mid-nineties when Roper invited me over for dinner at his place. I hadn't known Mort too well, so I was puzzled to find he was the other guest. I guess Roper thought a musician would be a good bet. It was a fine evening, and I'm indebted to Steve for bringing us together.
rest in peace Mort
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 26, 2015 - 05:28pm PT
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hey there, to jan and pat, all mort's friends...
my condolences and prayers, again, for the memories to bless you and keep the pain at bay...
at this sad time, we are in your corner...
thank you for sharing about the memories, of this man, and friend, and all
that he meant to you...
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Aug 26, 2015 - 06:11pm PT
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Awesome photo Mouse . . . those dudes are in their prime on pristine granite! The ravages of time have yet to take effect on them . . . RIP Mort, we will all be joining you, by and by.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 26, 2015 - 07:06pm PT
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Yeti! Thanks for sharing your thoughts. The Snaz is pretty special.
Mort would be happy to hear your story.
[quote]A bit over a year ago Steve Fankhauser read the following to Mort and reported that it brought him a smile.
http://www.dickdorworth.com/?s=the+snaz&submit=Search[/quote]
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