Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
benbro
Social climber
San Francisco/South Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
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Hi Supertacos,
Heading up to the PNW from SF and looking to spend a day or two climbing at Trinity Aretes on the way up. I've looked through the Mountain Project and they have some beta on how to get there, but just wondering if there is some sort of a guide to the area?
The only thing I can find is the "Northwest California" Falcon guide that appears to be out of print.
Either way, I'd love suggestions of classic routes (especially in the 5.10 - 5.12 range) and any insight from folks who have been there before (including camping info) is helpful!
Thanks,
Ben
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jul 23, 2015 - 02:05pm PT
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I can help.
The Northern California Guide is a bit more out than of print - it got yanked because Steven Mackay copied information straight from the guide I wrote for the area. Eric Chemello and Paul Humphries (RIP) did the leg work on getting it yanked. I have a copy and it's a joke how much Mackay straight up copied me. I only covered the coast, however.
You want Eric and Paul's guide:
Bigfoot Country Climbing which you should be able to pick up at Adventures Edge in Arcata.
If you get desperate LMK as I also have Eric and Pauls guide and could get you the basic info. I could also take a bunch of photos from Mackay's guide and share those since I don't care :-). Won't do that with my bros guide. Give AE a call and see if they have it - (707) 822-4673.
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Knave
Trad climber
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Jul 23, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
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Shasta area climbing guide by Grover Shipman might have some reference to it but I don't have it in front of me to confirm. I seem to recall seeing a guide for it online, Or check Shasta base camp or fifth season of adventure edge in Arcata.
Well there you go!
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benbro
Social climber
San Francisco/South Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2015 - 02:32pm PT
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Thanks guys!
@Nature - I'm unfortunately not going to be passing through Arcata since I'm coming from SF and that way takes 1 hr longer, thanks for the info though!
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jul 23, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
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hey Ben,
I have Slater's CA road trip guide and the bigfoot guide if you want to borrow. I'm in Santa Rosa.
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benbro
Social climber
San Francisco/South Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2015 - 04:28pm PT
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@splitclimber
Thanks! That is a very generous offer and I may hit you up for that.
All - any route recommendations?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 23, 2015 - 08:22pm PT
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It's the kind of very cool sport climbing that people generally think California, climbing is not sophisticated enough to have...
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john bald
climber
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Jul 23, 2015 - 08:29pm PT
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If going without a guide like I did, rack a couple of cams in addition to qd's. Some routes may appear pure sport, but are not.
RB's were used on a couple climbs by the fa party. Saw something about this when I did spy a peek at a guidebook.
Careful with the campfire this summer!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 23, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
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you'll pass homesteads that may have you thinking you took a wrong turn into banjo country.
Or quaint campsites with friends of El Chapo toting AK's.
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benbro
Social climber
San Francisco/South Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
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Thanks, sounds interesting regardless - I'm excited to check it out!
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Jul 24, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
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Nature is correct if you can get the Bigfoot Country book somehow it is a gem like his coast book as well.
Tom Slater and I included Trinity Aretes in our California Road Trip: A Climber's Guide Northern California
http://www.amazon.com/California-Road-Trip-Climbers-Northern/dp/0982498802
There are several really unique climestone crags in NorCal ~ The Aretes is one of the best with its neat "solder patches" and long routes :)
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benbro
Social climber
San Francisco/South Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
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@drunkenmaster
Thanks Chris, I'm really excited to check it out - the Paisano wall looks really cool.
On another note, I went to Dry Creek for the first time a couple weeks ago and got on Judge Dredd - what a proud line man!
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bixquite
Social climber
humboldt nation
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Jul 26, 2015 - 12:18am PT
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Paisano butress is a proud line,
the majority of the climbs are stellar and the camping is roots,
both Paul and Stanley put love into this crag so burn one down for the boys and enjoy
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benbro
Social climber
San Francisco/South Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2015 - 09:08am PT
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Ah...one more question - what's the best option for camping in the area??
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 28, 2015 - 11:15am PT
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Primitive camping just off the road at the pullout for the crag
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benbro
Social climber
San Francisco/South Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2015 - 11:44am PT
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@caughtinside
Thanks - that will do!
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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
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