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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 7, 2015 - 04:21am PT
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Good Morning Everyone, because in Italy there is this discussion,( in my Forum Planet- Mountain) if after climbing a mountain having the good fortune to have a path (footpath )
for the descent, it is better to get off the line of ascent or the path. Or is it better (rappelling) I have done hundreds of double strings, without incident, but the rappelling, is not without risk, especially when you are very tired from a climb, or the weather, or lightning ect ect.Io know of the Great climbers died in rappelling (for various reasons) example.
Giusto Gervasutti- Pierre Beghin-Paul Armando- Giuseppe Gagliardone- Romain Vogler- Paul Cavagnetto ect ect. here. in the Alps. However, deaths from abseiling are many: My question is this, (as in the English language are many sites (in Italian there is nothing) for my research to be published on my Forum in Italy, some expert knows the sites that speak of incidents in rappelling? It certainly may seem a strange question, but (I do not know even if there) but I would find something that would explain how the accident occurred (what caused the death of the unfortunate climber or mountaineer) A history of accidents in climbing and mountaineering (You know some site- link ect.
Thanks a Lot.
Many Regards
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, watermann2... say, someone will check in with you, on this subject, i am sure... as--they have talked and shared about this danger, here, as to a few accidents from climber history, and as to recent ones, a few times, too...
you can type in the search here, 'rappelling' and see what shows up, as to the TITLES here, until someone answers this post... :)
welcome, to you, as well...
:)
edit:
here, for example, from the SEARCH of forum, is this:
though it MAY NOT be what you are looking for, it is a start, or
something for you to read, until someone ELSE shows up... (i am not a climber, but my brother is,... and i enjoy the rocks)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1188559&tn=0
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, jeremy b... glad you were around to share, for the subject here, for the info that was needed ABOVE..
say, i have learned so much here, reading what you guys have shared, as to rappelling, and situations, but wow, AFTER seeing that link, and the list, it is REALLY overwhelming how much can go wrong...
:O
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 06:59am PT
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Thank you very much to all for Your responses, primarily in Mr. Robert. L.per His long explanation, and then of course to all other Thanks. I wanted to post the question asked on the Planet Mountain Forum (I forgotten heroes, chiedo i excuse) with my answer (I am Yota) Question. Logically, I apologize, but rough translation: APPLICATION
Lightweight double rope
Post Reply
33 posts • Page 1 of 2 • 12
Lightweight double rope QUESTION :
I omit here the inconveniences that come from creating descending from a climb to more shots with this technique, do not get me wrong, I would not go to jinx, the headaches and the improvisations to deal with them in certain unpleasant situations I've been through the, the you too have experienced other but certainly there are categories of climbers, let's call them lucky, let's call them experts call them newbies, or ultra-picky in these delicate rope maneuvers that so far everything went smoothly .... and in this category I'd like to come my suggestion:
If the maneuver is done because there is no chance of descent from the climb or you really NEED to practice it, well ... it does it !!!
But please, avoid double strings if there is a downward path, although not as comfortable ......... stops-bomb off!
Remember that the double strings could become disastrous sources of trouble, even on the streets "plaisir" with mega big rings :)
Please, consider this my friendly intervention: wink:
Down with stress, in high as well
This is my answer:
Lightweight double rope
Post Replay:
I agree with the analysis made by Danilo, the abseiling has the prerogative
not to be free from danger, and in this moment I have no information at hand,
(I'll do a search then) but also among the great mountaineers, the dead are not just due
a contributory causes of abseiling, and among the names made by KINOBI, add:
Gervasutti- Béghin Gagliardone (Gervasutti mate) Paolo Armando (companion
of Pillory) ect ect. Dead forever to various factors, while descended abseil! I
I've done it hundreds of double (also in critical condition) Weather-lightning ect)
without ever having accidents in double, however, but Danilo absolutely right, SE
it's not really possible (eg. Grand Capucin) I dropped the Swiss, because I think
is the safest and fastest (besides, when we got to the tip, began
to snow! But, but if there is fortunate to have a path available for
descent, I suggest you walk down, more relaxed, less stressful !!!
Then, when we do not talk (for various reasons; tiredness - Weather - stress ect ect there :)
impelaghiamo in doubles, accidents increased in proportion (an account is
be rested and perky, it is one thing to be upset by the difficulty of the climb
mountaineering, however, my advice is: If you can avoid BETTER !!! Greetings.
I forgot: Danilo Bravo !!!
Thank You Very Much. many Greetings.
IRe: Leggerezza della corda doppia
Messaggioda Yota » mar lug 07, 2015 11:20 am
Concordo con l'analisi fatta da Danilo, la discesa in corda doppia ha la prerogativa
di non essere scevra da pericoli, e, in questo momento non ho dati sottomano,
( farò poi una ricerca)ma, anche tra i grandi alpinisti , i morti non sono pochi,dovute
a concause di discesa in corda doppia, e tra i nomi fatti da KINOBI, aggiungo :
Gervasutti- Beghin- Gagliardone ( compagno di Gervasutti) Paolo Armando ( compagno
di Gogna ) Ect Ect. Morti sempre per fattori vari, mentre si calavano in corda doppia!I
Io ne ho fatte centinaia di doppie ( anche in condizioni critiche ) Meteo-fulmini ect)
senza mai avere incidenti in doppia, però, però Danilo ha assolutamente ragione, SE
non è proprio possibile ( es. Grand Capucin ) io ho sceso la Svizzeri, perchè penso
sia la più sicura e veloce ( oltretutto, quando siamo arrivati in in punta,ha cominciato
a nevicare! Però, però se c'è la fortuna di avere un sentiero a disposizione per la
discesa, anch'io consiglio di scendere a piedi, più rilassante, meno stressante!!!
Poi, non parliamo quando ( per vari motivi ; stanchezza - meteo - stress ect ect:) ci
impelaghiamo in doppie, gli incidenti aumentano in proporzione ( un conto è
essere riposato e pimpante, un conto è essere stravolto dalla fatica della scalata
alpinistica , comunque il mio consiglio è : Se si possono evitare MEGLIO!!! Saluti.
Dimenticavo : Bravo Danilo!!!
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overwatch
climber
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Informative post from Mr. L, thanks.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Quantitative analysis aside.....we all know that rappelling accidents have taken many climbers around the world, many of whom were very experienced.
My personal rules are few because we all know the proper procedure.
1) Walk or climb down if that is a viable option.
2) If rappelling is the best option maintain ABSOLUTE VIGILANCE throughout the process. Often raps are done in bad weather and when tired. Do not let these factors lead you to disastor. Your mantra should be.....vigilance, vigilance, vigilance. Repeat this to yourself until you are safely down.
You might want to read the thread I wrote a few weeks ago....."The 85th rappel"
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 10:38am PT
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Good Morning Mr, Donini, it is always a great honor for me to receive an answer! Thanks. I'm glad you agree with what I had written in Italy, (forum planet Mountain) that is, if you can, I repeat, if possible without this may cause other problems worse, when possible, always better to go down the path. However, because the rappelling is not without dangers absolute, there is always some danger even if small
(Walk down the path less dangerous) this is my thinking, and I'm glad that the Great Myth of Mountaineering Donini, think like me! Thanks Great Master!
Many greetings to You and Your Family.
Ps. Its legendary ascent and descent to LATOK I I've read with 85 rappels to get to the base A masterpiece !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
One of the greatest masterpieces of mountaineering of all time
Chapeau !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 11:32pm PT
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Thank you very much for Your answers Mr.ROBERT L e Mr. CLINT CUMMINS:I am agree with You that the dangers there are also going down the path (but less dangerous than go on a walking trail (then the incident can happen even on the walking path down, How success the great Mountaineer WHIMP
""""""Christchurch climber Matt Evrard, who was with Mr. whimp When he died, said they were traversing easy terrain close to Homer Saddle.""""""
""""""It was easy, not somewhere where climbers would put on a rope, but very exposed, so the Consequences of slip either side was fatal," he said."""""""
Then, I agree with you that all depends on the situations in which one he found. But my thoughts and modest advice I would give is this: if you have an easy path where you can walk down, it is preferable, recommended, if it is not possible rappelling, but very vigilance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Many Regards and thank You very much for Your Answers.
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use the rappel route
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