Huntington Ravine?

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Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 5, 2015 - 01:38pm PT
Hey, sorry for the OT business, but I'm thinking about going up Huntington Ravine and down Boot Spur next weekend with my better half. I've never been up Huntington and the AMC guide urges caution, am I getting her in over her head or is it not that bad? For reference, we descended the Flume Slide two weeks ago and it was no big deal

Any east coasters out there?
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jul 5, 2015 - 02:25pm PT
You'll be fine, it is a super hike that has some steepish sections. Going up should not be an issue.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Jul 5, 2015 - 02:38pm PT
Assuming this is a fairly representative highlight reel it doesn't look like there's anything much harder than some exposed class 3:

[Click to View YouTube Video]
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Jul 5, 2015 - 03:23pm PT
Brandon, my husband says it's steep but it's just a trail. He adds, lots of vertical feet, it will be a good long day.
Edge

Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
I led my brother and 13 year old nephew up it in a light drizzle. The only bit that is exposed with potential for a long slide is right off the base of Central Gully where you follow a weakness up and right across the slab.


Higher up there's a couple of 3rd class moves, but in safe locations.



There's supposed to be a big cairn at the top, but I couldn't find it.

Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2015 - 04:27pm PT
Nice, so Huntington it is.

Thanks!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jul 7, 2015 - 11:40am PT
I hiked up it with two non-climbing but athletic(think serious skiing and squash) people. No rope and no big deal but that was in 1986. Details of the route will of course be different now.
As usual in the Presidentials watch the weather! Of course you can't watch weather arriving from the west, but hey, you already know that.
There's some 3d class on the slabby places.

Edge's pics are much as I remember it. It was a fun day out for all.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
Thanks for the beta HT! Not much climbing this year for me, but my lady and I have been doing some long days in the Presis. It's a good second best, and my legs and cardio are better than when I was twenty! Good times!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
Any thoughts on the exposure and stability of the rock in Pinnacle? Easy solo? The wheels are turning, maybe I should cut my better half loose and climb Pinnacle. It's 5.5, right?

Edit; in looking at Websters book, it looks like I've got options. Pinnacle, Central Gully looks like a contender, Larrabee, and Henderson Ridge too. Anyone been on these? It's a long ways from the road, so caution will be exercised, but an easy solo might be fun. Thoughts?
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Jul 7, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
I've done the Huntington Ravine trail 3 times and it's always lots of fun. It was one of the first hikes I ever did in the Presidentials and at that time, being a total noob, I was a little spooked on that one slabby part.
I think the last time we went across the Alpine Garden and then down Lion's Head. Nice loop.

A recommendation for a nice scrambly hike is the Caps Ridge on Jefferson and then down the Castellated Ridge, across the shitty Link and then back on the Caps Ridge. Lots of above treeline time, and scrambling, which is always fun.

Edit: Pinnacle Ridge is like a 5.7 I think. Supposed to be really good, on my tick list. Same with Henderson Ridge.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 12:30pm PT
Just did the Castle trail up Jefferson, over to Adams, and down Lowes Path last month! Beauty!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jul 11, 2015 - 11:36pm PT
hey there say, brandon_ thanks for the bit of update, do you have a trip report, etc, yet... ?
Edge

Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2015 - 10:22am PT
Brandon, Pinnacle is completely solo-able if you are willing to A) accept the risks or B) skip the best, most spectacular climbing by skirting it to the left. In general the further left from the arête you go the easier it gets, but that's not why you're there, is it?

But why listen to a CO climber blathering about NH routes?
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jul 12, 2015 - 02:13pm PT
Except for my hike (and I still think of it as a hike) up Huntington's in summer all my experience in the Ravine is winter ice climbing so I don't have hiking experience of any of the other routes.
skip the best, most spectacular climbing by skirting it to the left. In general the further left from the arête you go the easier it gets
We definitely went up and left from a bit below the Pinnacle. Some easy scrambling as I recall. Otherwise there was a pretty clear use trail. Up high on the Pinnacle slabs there were some optional fun moves.
At least in full on winter conditions, the entrance to Central Gully is quite steep. Dunno what it's like in summer.
Keep your head about you and you and your wife will have a Grand Day Out (apologies to Wallace and Gromit)
Go
Do IT!
Report back
Inquiring Minds Must Know!
perswig

climber
Jul 12, 2015 - 02:26pm PT
Completely defer to Edge on this, of course, but...

Brandon, are you hiking or climbing?
Hiking with your spouse (not a climber?), I'd do the Ravine Trail, do a weekday, and get an early start to avoid slow/large groups and wx issues. Even on this, watch for dislodged rock from above.

Pitching out with your spouse and gear (looking for a cool first multipitch for her?), do Henderson Ridge and then hike off or up. Easy-peasy but a great alpine feel.

By yerownself or if she's solid, solo Henderson. If early/fast, scramble off climber's right and down and you can traverse back into the Fan and up HRT and finish across the Garden and down. If crowded by then, you can do Central instead (more potential for loose rock). Cardio day...

Pinnacle, not the gully (I dunno, do-able?, but polished or wet or both; in a really dry year might make a cool slab climb) but the Buttress; great route but a little tricky route finding if you've not been there.
See MP and Marc's link here:
http://www.chauvinguides.com/pinnacleguide.htm

As Edge said, once you've done the initial ramp, the 5.5 route scrambles up, has a really nice corner and then trends left; the more you trend, the easier it stays. Failure to move left after the initial pitches and corner, you get into some funky moves to pins and an overhang that would not, repeat not, be fun to reverse once committed. This is the direct 5.8 (5.7, whatever). I'm embarrassed to say I've only done this or the 5.9 variation right up the arête; I wouldn't know exactly where to find the Allis chimney, but it'll be somewhere between straight up and 'far' left after the brilliant corner (helpful, huh?). Your call at that point how frisky you feel.

Have fun.
Dale
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
Just got back.

I decided to stick with my lady and stay on the hiking trail. There was one party on the central buttress, not sure what if was, but it looked pretty straightforward.

That place is great! I'm going back with either a partner, or just solo something easy. But that location, super cool! Today was a great scouting mission, I'll be back!

Also, it was a bit of a surprise when we hit the rim and were surrounded by tourons who had walked down from the auto road. Flowers were popping in the alpine garden, and then it was a zoo going down Tucs. Mad gapers.

It was a beautiful day, I'll try to post some photos later.

Thanks for all the beta!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jul 12, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
Well done to you and your lady!
it was a zoo going down Tucs
So you didn't go down the Lion Head trail from Alpine Garden? Smart move, that's a steep and rough descent. Besides Tuckerman's has the cool factor.
Oddly enough this map doesn't have the Huntington Ravine trail listed. You can see the white line of the "official" trail but it ends below Central Gully.
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=zgtJqEyCRoV4.kr3YqIxekyCU&ie=UTF8&hl=en&t=p&msa=0&ll=44.282816,-71.290627&spn=0.086025,0.154495&z=12&source=embed
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2015 - 04:41pm PT
Yeah, I had been planning on going down Lion Head, but some random guy at the huge cairn Edge shows in his photo recommended Tuckerman Ravine instead. We saw the hordes coming up Lion Head and opted for Tucs, it was a great decision. There is still a two acre or so snowfield at the base of the cliffs, with a sweet tunnel running through the whole thing. We didn't venture inside, but you could see daylight at the other end.
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
Jul 12, 2015 - 05:41pm PT
Sounds like a great day out for you both!
I hiked the HR trail in a downpour, had to grab some shrubbery and turf on the edge of some wet slabs but otherwise I was comfortable.
I usually only go there in winter so the rock climbing routes are on my to do list (with rope and gear).
slabbo

Trad climber
colo south
Jul 13, 2015 - 06:51am PT
Brandon- if you are looking for some others....King ravine is cool ( and tons of boulders)..Stairs trail leads to an awesome look out with crags and even a campsite...Mt carrigan is nice and up in the percy peaks area are many hike/scramble things
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