Alexander Burgener (1845, Saas Fee – 8 July 1910, near the Berglihütte) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many mountains and new routes in the western Alps during the silver age of alpinism.
One of his clients was Albert Mummery. They made the first ascent of the Zmuttgrat on the Matterhorn on 3 September 1879, and of the Grands Charmoz (1880) and the Aiguille du Grépon in the Mont Blanc Massif (5 August 1881). With another British alpinist, Clinton Thomas Dent, he made the first ascent of the Lenzspitze (August 1870) and the Grand Dru (12 September 1878).
He was killed by an avalanche on 8 July 1910 near the Berglihütte in the Bernese Alps. Six other climbers died in the avalanche, including Burgener's son Adolf.
Wikipedia
First ascents
Lenzspitze, 1870
Portjengrat, 1871
Zinal-Rothorn von Zermatt
Täschhorn Ost-Flanke, 1876
Grand Dru, 1878
Fletschhorn vom Laquintal, 1879
Zmutt ridge of the Matterhorn, 1879
Dürrenhorn, 1879
Traverse of the Col du Lion, 1879
Grand Charmoz, 1879
Furrgengrat, 1879
Ecrins vom Glacier Noir, 1881
Aiguille Verte von Charpoua, 1881
Aiguille du Grépon, 1881
Hochberghorn SW Grat, 1881
Strahlhorn, 1881
Pelvoux Ost-Flanke, 1882
Nadelhorn, West-Flanke, 1882
Dom W-Grat, 1882
Glüschaint, 1883
Colle Torrone, Torrone Orient. West, 1883
Sattelhorn, Kleines Aletschhorn, 1883
Balfrinhorn SO-Flanke, 1883
Mamison-choch, 1884
Lacquinhorn S-Grat, 1884
Mittellegi, 1884
Gistola, 1886
Täschhorn, Teufelsgrat, 1887
Aiguille des Glaciers OS-Grat, 1887
Frontier ridge of Mont Maudit, 1887
Dom SW-Flanke, 1887
Pelvoux O-Wand, 1888
Stafelhorn, 1889
Portjengrat O, 1890
Bietschhorn O-Variante, 1892
Punta Lavina and Garin SW, 1894
Palü NW-Pfeiler, 1899
Balfrin NW-Grat, 1900
Balfrin NO-Grat, 1908
Pioniere Der Alpen, Carl Egger
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