Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 3, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
|
In their 2014 press release and at trade shows Metolius said the new #000 TCU was rated at 5 kN.(http://n1a.goexposoftware.com/events/ors2013/FORMfields/uploads/pressreleasescurprurl1374784168353591455.pdf).
Now on their website, and from what they've told me by email, the cam is rated at 2.5 kN. Me smells risk aversion and a conservative rating.
This is the same company that rates the #0 and #00 as "for aid only." That is total hog wash and I believe the #0 is probably like a 6 kN cam. I've whipped all over both and no problems.
In my world, 5 kN is plenty and 4 kN is good for a fall so long as the rope has not already been stretched out. So has any one out there taken the Pepsi Challenge on the #000, or even better, pull-tested one? This little green guy would be a big welcome to my rack if it is indeed a 5 kN cam.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
Does it matter what its rated to, if its the only piece that fits? I always stoked if i can just get something in besides a rattley stopper.
My partner took a good whipper on the smallest Metolius in a clean straight in crack. It held but it deformed the piece. which seems acceptable to me.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
I've *slumped* onto a grey a few times, however hadn't had a full blown whip on one. Longest fall might be 5 feet. See what those crazy dudes from Colorado have to say, they like to fall on small stuff...
|
|
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
|
|
All I can give you is a couple falls on the purple bd c3, one factor 0.5. Bomber. That piece is rated to 6 kn, the 000 is 4kn.
I bet metolius is just pulling a cya with the 2.5 rating. That being said I think you would be hard pressed to get a really really good placement with that piece to actually get full strength
|
|
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
|
I climb on a lot of quartzite. Rock hardness of 20,000 - 40,000 psi, versus the 12-15k in the Valley. There are several placements I have in mind and this unit could add a bit of safety and peace of mind.
|
|
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2015 - 04:29pm PT
|
Just looking for some anecdotes or empirical evidence as to it's actual ultimate load capacity.
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
I've taken a 35 footer onto a #1 DMM Peanut. That's a 4kn piece and it held the fall. It was a bomber placement in bomber Gunks Quartzite. Small cams however just don't have that much tolerance for range. So the strength of the piece might not be what causes it to pull.
|
|
j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
|
|
Had one pop on me after I'd been resting on it for a few minutes.
Got rope burn on the hand and a bruised foot.
Q:Would any microcam hold a fall in perfect conditions?
A:Somewhere between definitely and most-likely.
Q:Does anyone place microcams in perfect conditions?
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
Ripped a Hook then took a 12' daisy chain fall on a 000# Tcu, Ricnon on belay saved the day as well as the gear.
|
|
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2015 - 05:18pm PT
|
Ripped a Hook then took a 12' daisy chain fall on a 000# Tcu, Ricnon on belay saved the day as well as the gear.
So the #000 held?
|
|
Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
|
|
12' daisy fall? that's one long daisy chain.
And if you took a daisy fall, how did your belayer save the day.
What am I missing?
|
|
Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
|
|
I took a hard fall on a small single-stem friend. Between blue and green Alien size.
Placed in a vertical, shallow bottoming crack, the cams stayed in place, and the solid part of the stem was bent about 20 degrees.
I expected to see it come sliding down the rope.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
I've whipped on the gray Metolius, but not the 000.
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
I had custom Daisy's from Yates 6'. Yes Rincon did nothing. But he would of if the Tcu popped.
|
|
Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
|
|
Got it. Didn't know you could get 6' daisies.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
#⃣0⃣ aid only? I never realized that. I ve fallen on it a couple of times. Only pulled once.
#000 - spooky!
Can't you just test it in a safe fall place? Although maybe you wouldneed to retire it after the test! Screamer would certainly help.
|
|
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
|
Thanks for all of the responses. Jeff that's pretty bad ass that it held that long of a daisy fall. Sounds like it was a clean fall too, well except for your shorts. Doh!
A buddy and I took multiple falls on the old zero TCU- and it held until the 3rd fall- which ended up with me decking from about 20 feet. Landed on my feet though. The cam lobes gave way and had visible damage. Placement is tricky with those teensie cams..
I think the key to using pro that is rated in the 4-6 kN range is to avoid taking repeated falls on the same end of the rope. If you take a lob on a #1 RP, or a microcam, if possible tie into the other end of the rope before risking another fall onto the same piece.
Cheers and Happy 4th!
|
|
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2015 - 09:38pm PT
|
phylp, I'm pretty sure a pull test doesn't have to result in a ruined cam unless it exceeds it's ultimate load capacity. I have not done them so I can't say for sure though. For a while there Mussy, aka Fish, aka Russ was pull testing people's aliens so there is probably some thread history on it. I'm tempted to have a 000 pull-tested to see if it could do 4+ kN, although I'm almost certain that it can.
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
|
|
To answer the post question. I've whipped on a 1 RP.
Top that.
|
|
pell
Trad climber
Sunnyvale
|
|
Did not try it with #000 5kN TCU, although 4kN #000 BD C3 is an OK piece to whip on. Sure, one needs a good belayer giving smooth and dynamic catches to try it.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|