Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
youri
climber
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - May 25, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
|
Here is my solution to rap skinny wet rope with piG. Try it and let me know what you think! Enjoy!! Also tell me your comments please. Ropes 7mm could work, minimum 8mm recommended, but 9mm recommended for any sizable pig. Be careful of sharp edges. Biner is auto lock because the rope could unlock a screw gate. And yea, your gonna die!!
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
May 25, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
|
How are you connecting the pig to the rope?
|
|
johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
|
|
May 25, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
|
Looks pretty scary to me if that loop slipped over the top.
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
May 25, 2015 - 03:44pm PT
|
How about a regular rap setup with an autoblock? It helped me while rapping icy double 8.6 ropes.
|
|
Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
|
|
May 25, 2015 - 04:56pm PT
|
I rapped only one time with a Cinch and a pig coming down East Ledges. I hated it on even a 10.2 mm line (new rope and kind of slick). It was either locked up or would drop me a couple feet at a shot, almost nothing in the middle. It is just not a great rap device, especially with extra load on it. I have had much less issue with a normal belay device (Jaws, and whatever the wild country equivalent is called).
Two strands is easier to control than a single strand, and an autoblock below the ATC works great when you have to frig with a rope snarl or maneuver around terrain.
I guess there would be nothing wrong with extending out an ATC on a doubled up sling and using the cinch below that if you want to get all Rube Goldberg, but it is hard to beat an ATC in high friction mode with autoblock below.
|
|
coondogger
Trad climber
NH
|
|
May 25, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
|
what keeps the top strand on top? Looks like it would slide under the gri gri if you move your fingers away.
What keeps the rope from unlocking the biner?
What keeps the rope from sawing the belay loop?
Seems that braking action would restrict the device from working properly.
there is a better safer way to do this
|
|
wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
|
|
May 25, 2015 - 07:54pm PT
|
Death cluster
|
|
franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
May 25, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
|
You're not the first person to discover this method. The rest of them died before they could share it.
|
|
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
May 25, 2015 - 10:40pm PT
|
must be, right?
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
May 25, 2015 - 10:46pm PT
|
I can think of about 3 other ways to do it with total confidence...
Think I'll skip yours.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
May 25, 2015 - 10:48pm PT
|
Just use a Munter hitch.
If it doesn't give enough friction, add a second Munter hitch on a separate biner in series above the first one.
|
|
rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
May 25, 2015 - 11:07pm PT
|
As others have mentioned if top loop slips away from you (as in the photo) you instantly lose all extra friction and aren't even in position to lock up the grigri.
I always use either two ATCs chained together or the old carabiner brake combined wth an ATC. Makes for a long string of gear but totally controllable descent.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
May 26, 2015 - 02:56am PT
|
Why re-invent the wheel?
Is the new thing better than the redundancy of a rap/ haul line and the lead ropes ?
Seems like that set up is set up to slip and lock up then slip again when you loosen the 'munter' . This is just what Moof, described.
There are some other decending devices that Cavers use and then - The Robbot by Bonnoti/Kong, is the least used here in the USA . But it sees a lot of action where one is going fast and 'light'
Hauling one pack, simu-climbing a lot, skinny ropes, ridges, climbing down as well as up.
For weight, I use the combination of the old school model and added 'biners.
Much like adding a second munter, (Clint Cummins, for the win, might i add) or the double belay device /'biner brake,( long chain of gear, that might suck in and tangle.)
Any way that you can add another bend to increase the friction thus the control.
edited @1pm 5/30
also does any one still do this . .. .. .. ???
..........v v v????
allowed one to 'animate the pig' give it a device, an auto-block, of it's own. ( was this done with a four 'biner brake in the past.?i think?)
so that you can lower the pig out mid- rap.,to land it on a ledge etc.
(and then catch up from a point half way down.and repeat )???
|
|
youri
climber
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
|
John: the pig is connected to the belay loop.
Moose: yes the loop *could* slip but it is very stable in use... Never actually slipped on me. Never tried the rope in front of weighted end cuz it was never a problem. Also the advantage is you can take it on and off for regular use.
Moof: you are describing exactly the situation I try to control.
Coon: I use an autolock so no unscrewing. But yes one has to be careful not to damage the belay loop with passing rope.
Thanks all for your feedback. I guess it will never go mainstream this method. :-)))
|
|
rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
May 29, 2015 - 05:58pm PT
|
Gnome what is the brand of that blue device? I like the looks of it. It looks like you can add friction mid rap as the weight of the tail gets lighter and/or you can lock it off to fiddle with cleaning stuck gear. I can't quite read the brand label.
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
|
|
May 30, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
|
Kong
|
|
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|