rap skinny wet rope with pig

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Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
youri

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 25, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
Here is my solution to rap skinny wet rope with piG. Try it and let me know what you think! Enjoy!! Also tell me your comments please. Ropes 7mm could work, minimum 8mm recommended, but 9mm recommended for any sizable pig. Be careful of sharp edges. Biner is auto lock because the rope could unlock a screw gate. And yea, your gonna die!!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
May 25, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
How are you connecting the pig to the rope?
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
May 25, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
Looks pretty scary to me if that loop slipped over the top.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
May 25, 2015 - 03:44pm PT
How about a regular rap setup with an autoblock? It helped me while rapping icy double 8.6 ropes.
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
May 25, 2015 - 04:56pm PT
I rapped only one time with a Cinch and a pig coming down East Ledges. I hated it on even a 10.2 mm line (new rope and kind of slick). It was either locked up or would drop me a couple feet at a shot, almost nothing in the middle. It is just not a great rap device, especially with extra load on it. I have had much less issue with a normal belay device (Jaws, and whatever the wild country equivalent is called).

Two strands is easier to control than a single strand, and an autoblock below the ATC works great when you have to frig with a rope snarl or maneuver around terrain.

I guess there would be nothing wrong with extending out an ATC on a doubled up sling and using the cinch below that if you want to get all Rube Goldberg, but it is hard to beat an ATC in high friction mode with autoblock below.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
May 25, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
coondogger

Trad climber
NH
May 25, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
what keeps the top strand on top? Looks like it would slide under the gri gri if you move your fingers away.
What keeps the rope from unlocking the biner?
What keeps the rope from sawing the belay loop?
Seems that braking action would restrict the device from working properly.

there is a better safer way to do this
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
May 25, 2015 - 07:54pm PT
Death cluster
franky

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
May 25, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
You're not the first person to discover this method. The rest of them died before they could share it.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 25, 2015 - 10:40pm PT

must be, right?

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 25, 2015 - 10:46pm PT
I can think of about 3 other ways to do it with total confidence...

Think I'll skip yours.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 25, 2015 - 10:48pm PT
Just use a Munter hitch.
If it doesn't give enough friction, add a second Munter hitch on a separate biner in series above the first one.
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
May 25, 2015 - 11:07pm PT
As others have mentioned if top loop slips away from you (as in the photo) you instantly lose all extra friction and aren't even in position to lock up the grigri.

I always use either two ATCs chained together or the old carabiner brake combined wth an ATC. Makes for a long string of gear but totally controllable descent.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
May 26, 2015 - 02:56am PT
Why re-invent the wheel?
Is the new thing better than the redundancy of a rap/ haul line and the lead ropes ?
Seems like that set up is set up to slip and lock up then slip again when you loosen the 'munter' . This is just what Moof, described.
There are some other decending devices that Cavers use and then - The Robbot by Bonnoti/Kong, is the least used here in the USA . But it sees a lot of action where one is going fast and 'light'
Hauling one pack, simu-climbing a lot, skinny ropes, ridges, climbing down as well as up.
For weight, I use the combination of the old school model and added 'biners.
Much like adding a second munter, (Clint Cummins, for the win, might i add) or the double belay device /'biner brake,( long chain of gear, that might suck in and tangle.)
Any way that you can add another bend to increase the friction thus the control.

edited @1pm 5/30

also does any one still do this . .. .. .. ???
..........v v v????
allowed one to 'animate the pig' give it a device, an auto-block, of it's own. ( was this done with a four 'biner brake in the past.?i think?)

so that you can lower the pig out mid- rap.,to land it on a ledge etc.

(and then catch up from a point half way down.and repeat )???
youri

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
John: the pig is connected to the belay loop.
Moose: yes the loop *could* slip but it is very stable in use... Never actually slipped on me. Never tried the rope in front of weighted end cuz it was never a problem. Also the advantage is you can take it on and off for regular use.
Moof: you are describing exactly the situation I try to control.
Coon: I use an autolock so no unscrewing. But yes one has to be careful not to damage the belay loop with passing rope.
Thanks all for your feedback. I guess it will never go mainstream this method. :-)))
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
May 29, 2015 - 05:58pm PT
Gnome what is the brand of that blue device? I like the looks of it. It looks like you can add friction mid rap as the weight of the tail gets lighter and/or you can lock it off to fiddle with cleaning stuck gear. I can't quite read the brand label.
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
May 30, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
Kong
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
May 30, 2015 - 01:11pm PT
bump
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
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