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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 21, 2015 - 06:21am PT
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Gotta love the sketchy topouts here in NE. Sometimes a problem gets more to you mentally than physically! Took a good fall off this a few years ago and didn't go back until a few weeks ago to get over the mental barrier. Here's the vid:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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May 22, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
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Aw yeeah.
Watched it a couple days ago on my youtube feed.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 22, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
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I feel old but I climbed today,
nice send!
I know of a few barely climbed stones in the north east
Small rock hell is my address.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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May 23, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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Hope you don't mind, bowshaaa, but I'm posting up a video of sketchy topouts, Balcarce style. At least it gives your thread a bump.
Not such a great video (people are standing in the way while Mariano passes the V6 technical crux about 40% of the way through the problem) but this line (we call it V9) has the fewest ascents of any long standing V9 on La Barrosa. Maybe not so high, but the landing is pretty awful and you have to commit to some tricky feet to make the last moves work. Mariano Maceri gets the second ascent:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2015 - 05:56am PT
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yanqui, great video, that almost seemed like a route! The finish had my hands sweating like crazy!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 26, 2015 - 09:03am PT
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Sketchy turf topouts on British sea cliffs remain the standard by which all others are measured.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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May 26, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
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Thanks for the positive feedback! Nice to have a little grass roots sharing on this site, that goes beyond the western USA. I thought the distinct styles were interesting: on the one hand fighting to hold it together on some slopey, crappy mantle stuff and, on then Mariano trying to hold it together forcing the moves through a big roof (the fact that Mariano starts to doubt the moves near the end means things are getting pretty intense).
Dingus, about the history: the first part of the problem was the V6 in the middle finishing at the big jug. Then the sit start was added. But then the full line was first sent after multiple attempts beginning right from the sit start (with a little bit of cleaning and holding checking done from shoulder stands on the big rock underneath the psychological crux).
Cheers Reilly and I certainly didn't mean to be handing out any rulers to be used as standards. As Peter Croft says (paraphrasing): a 5.13 is just a 5.7 that's a little steeper with holds that don't work so well.
Bowshaaa: keep putting up your videos (at least I've watched the more recent ones).
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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
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