Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 29, 2015 - 07:43pm PT
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Call me a hopeless fool but I am in love with the place. I am interested about the general consensus on putting up new routes in this area, particularly the far left side of Hammer Dome. What is the general ethic on adding belay or rappel anchors where necessary? I am not saying this is something I plan on doing right away, however I have spied a few possible lines far left of set the controls and would one day like to try them out.
Also the wall below the Garnet Mine is pretty rad too.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 29, 2015 - 08:14pm PT
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Where else did you spy new route potential? Would love to hear about it ;)
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crankster
Trad climber
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Apr 29, 2015 - 08:28pm PT
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Nobody owns the rock. Do what you think is best.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 29, 2015 - 09:02pm PT
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The ethic is to not tell anyone on the internet and then let people enjoy the route that you put up in the most fun way for you :)
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 29, 2015 - 09:02pm PT
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There are two routes left of Set the Controls. Hammer Dome is "tapped" out.
Get the full scoop before brandishing steel on assumed "open" stone down there.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Apr 30, 2015 - 05:28am PT
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Hammer Dome is "tapped" out.
El Cap was after 5 routes.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 30, 2015 - 08:23am PT
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Hammer Dome is not El Cap.
There is no line to squeeze left of Set the Controls.
I stanced both of the two routes, ground up, in the mid eighties over there. Walking on the Moon 5.11R/X and Solar Panel 5.10bR.
Do those two routes first and decide for yourself.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 30, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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Do you have the guidebook? Might help locate existing lines, unless of course this is a troll post.
describe what you think is 'necessary'?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 30, 2015 - 01:35pm PT
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The main ethic is to not add bolts to existing routes.
So make sure you know where the existing routes are.
Do you have the Cottrell guide, or have you seen the route list on my web page?
http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/caldomes/calav.htm
Here are the farthest left routes that I know of on Hammer Dome, which Ken mentioned in his post:
There are also formations further left like Silver Streak Slab, covered in the route list above.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Apr 30, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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People who are thinking about putting up sport protected slab climbs near existing "sporty" old school lines should consider the bigger picture - whether their new route will enhance or degrade the quality and aesthetics of the cliff.
One concept to consider when deciding whether or not a new line is a squeeze job or not, is that the distance between routes should be proportional to the distance between protection points. In other words, a run out route needs more space to either side than a closely bolted line. Slab routes in particular can't be too close together because the climbing usually wanders left and right a bit.
Just my 2c.
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 09:02pm PT
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Sorry Way way way more left. Like 100 ft from the bridge.
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
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I would never bolt a sport climb...ever. I have seen a few cracks on the far far left side of Hammer dome and thought gee those would be nice to try but it would suck if there were no anchor to get back to the ground from. Thanks Clint for your sound advice once again. I can't imagine hand drilling a bolt of a hook 40 feet above the last.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 30, 2015 - 10:01pm PT
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If there are new lines left of Solar Panel I think it would great if you went and did them.
I wouldn't consider the wall left of SP as Hammer Dome though, which is initially why I was concerned about what you were looking at over there.
Go and get after it before someone else does!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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It's pretty low angle over there. And the approach blows.
Cal Domes still has potential. But it requires an epic amount of work, at a really high pay grade, in a very specialized style of climbing.
It can take years of fine tuning your craft for this specific area to even begin to consider tapping what has been left behind.
Or you can tie a bunch of ropes together, drop them down about wherever looks blank and get something done in a weekend or two. You still need to be proficient at 5.11+ slab and thin edging though. Otherwise you're just paving a route for someone else to nab the true F.A. (you'll know!)and piss off a bunch of people in the meantime.
Most of the potential out there is a continuation, variation or really really fukkin hard. Might as well just bolt that quarry over there.
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2015 - 01:36pm PT
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Thanks for the info everyone, if you read my first post again, and maybe I was just being vague, my intentions were only to gauge the ethics on adding rap/ or belay anchors to undone cracks/routes on the far left side of Hammer Dome. Again I have zero intentions of putting up yet another super runout slab climb, bolting on rappel or bolting with my Hilti power drill from work(I am a general contractor in SF). However on the off chance in the future that one of the lines i have seen will go and is of a worthy quality, it would be nice to hand drill some rap/belay anchors, if necessary, on that side since none currently exist, and not piss people off. I am guessing based on the response above, no one has any interest in the area I am talking about anyway. I will inspect further next weekend and report back with photos and more info.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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May 10, 2015 - 08:44am PT
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If you're just putting in some anchors, use a power drill if you have one. It's easier and will leave you more time in the day to clean/climb and what not. Nothing wrong with a power drill, unless you're somewhere they're illegal to use. I'll use one going ground up if I can get away with it. It's just usually, when on lead, it's much easier to not lug one of those things up there with you unless the climbings easy, you can hook, or it's so hard you can't drill hands free.
Anyone who has a problem with that, doesn't understand the basis for their ethical position anyway.
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2016 - 07:43pm PT
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
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This gets me super psyched to explore! There is some monster brown trout in those headwaters!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2016 - 08:11pm PT
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Nice I took a bunch of non climbing friends for a nice bush wack to the top of Hammer dome last year and we had an awesome rainstorm for 5-10 mins. The size of the waterfalls coming of Calaveras were incredible!
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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